Imagine walking through night market stalls, your nose filled with the delicious scent of the world’s best street food. Your taste buds can’t wait to try it all. In between, vendors are selling fresh fruit juices – mango, watermelon, passion fruit. You can have it all when backpacking in Thailand. And once you see the white beaches and the crystal clear water tingles around your toes, you won’t ever want to leave this country again.
Backpacking in Thailand is probably the softest introduction to backpacking anywhere in Southeast Asia. It’s full of amazing places – paradisiacal islands, impressive old temples and stunning nature. Besides, the country’s infrastructure is awesome which makes it easy to get from one place to the next, it’s fairly safe, cheap, the locals are lovely and many Thais speak English due to the advanced tourism. This also means you’ll meet other backpackers easily, even (or especially) as a solo traveler.

Thailand has been a very special place for me for years. When I first visited in 2014, I didn’t know I’d stay for three months. I didn’t know the country would be the birthplace of my yoga journey. And I didn’t know it would draw me in so close that I’d feel the need to come back again and again.
Anytime I did come back, Thailand has given me such a beautiful experience – no matter if on any of the paradisiacal southern islands or the amazing landscape in the far north.

With the broad smiles of the lovely Thai people. With the perfect spices for its delicious food (in my opinion the best street food in the world). With the mountains, curvy roads, lovely villages, and beaming sun. And the beaches have left me so spoiled that many tropical countries I visited after Thailand didn’t meet my (of course very high) expectations.
It is no wonder that everyone falls in love with Thailand. And I’m sure, you will do so, too.

A bay with boats on our backpacking Thailand itinerary

Central & Northern Thailand | Highlights on your Backpacking Thailand itinerary

Bangkok

Let’s start with the capital. Chances are, your Thailand backpacking itinerary will start here.
Busy roads with tuk-tuks and crazy scooter drivers, haggling street vendors, intense scents, a crazy nightlife. But also the best street food, impressive temples and an awesome backpacker scene – That’s Bangkok. It’s for sure among the coolest of the Southeast Asian capitals, with so much to see.

To be honest, the first time I came to Bangkok, I didn’t like it. Maybe it was because I was overwhelmed with the hustle and bustle after coming from a yoga retreat. Well, probably, it wasn’t the best idea to start my first morning in an overcrowded water bus to the even more overcrowded Grand Palace and then further on to busy Chinatown. Screaming tuk-tuk drivers, loudly whistling boat staff, obtrusive vendors, and the constant jostling. To top it all off, I was super unlucky with a bad lunch, which gave me the rest – not the best first impression of Bangkok.

But once I gave the city a second chance, I experienced the magic of Bangkok. I visited its temples and markets together with fellow backpackers, and enjoyed amazing street food (I’m convinced that food is such a huge part of traveling and learning about foreign culture – if the local food is good, that’s half the battle. And Thai food leaves nothing to be desired).
And I came back a second, third, and fourth time – and every time I loved it even more. Once I even stayed with a local family far away from the touristy area that I abhorred so much during my first visit. This was for sure the best experience. But by now, I even like the busy, quite touristy area around Khao San.

Wat Pho Laying Buddha, a popular temple on any Thailand itinerary

The pagodas of Wat Pho can't be missed on your Thailand backpacking itinerary

Temples of Bangkok: Wat Arun & Wat Pho

ToDo in Bangkok:

  • Visit the beautiful temples, such as
    • Wat Pho (Lying Buddha Temple) – The whole temple complex with its many pagodas is super beautiful
    • Wat Arun – The golden pagoda is especially beautiful at night (I love the view from across the river, a great spot is the rooftop of Eagles Nest Bar)
    • Wat Saket (Golden Mount) – From up there, you’ve got an awesome view of Bangkok
  • Tailing Chan Floating Market – One of the less touristy markets where vendors sell groceries and food from their boats while you’re on a wooden boardwalk (even though you don’t drive through on a boat yourself, it’s a great alternative to the over-touristy Damnoen Saduak Floating Market where you have to pay 5000 Baht for a boat by now).
  • Ayutthaya – A wonderful day trip to the UNESCO World Heritage ruins of numerous large temples, about an hour’s drive away from Bangkok. The old city of Ayutthaya was destroyed in the 18th century by the Burmese army (which is why almost all Buddha statues have no head and no arms) while the most famous is the head of a Buddha rising out of the grounds & overgrown by roots.
  • Visit a rooftop bar – Enjoy the stunning view of Bangkok by night from above, e.g. at Baiyoke Tower II.
  • Khao San Road – The busy Backpacker area is full of street food stalls, bars, nightclubs, market stalls, and many hostels around. But it’s always super crowded.
  • Chatuchak Market – A huge(!) weekend market open on Saturdays & Sundays with countless stalls selling clothes, home decoration, food, and everything else you can imagine.
  • Free Walking Tour – The best way to explore Bangkok. There are some amazing free tours in Bangkok! My favorites are the Talad Noi Street Art Tour which takes you through an authentic side of Bangkok, the Off The Beaten Path Afternoon Tour for a great insight into some hidden gems in Bangkok and the Bike Tour where you can explore Bangkok’s backstreets.

Eat in Bangkok

I honestly can’t start listing any restaurants or street food stalls here, because the list would be endless. You can find amazing food almost everywhere in Bangkok – in my opinion, it’s the world’s street food capital. So just go with the flow and try as many street food stalls as you can and enjoy!

Stay in Bangkok

Hotels/Apartments
  • Budget stay: Thanabhumi – Nice, clean rooms right in the heart of Bangkok
  • Premium stay: Na Tanao 1969 – Small, beautiful boutique hotel in a great location close to everything you need and want to explore, yet it’s a quiet place.
Hostel
  • Here Hostel – A super nice hostel with a pool, a slide(!) and comfy dorm beds & beautiful private rooms in a perfect location close to Khao San yet in a quiet neighborhood.

Hotel recommendation for Bangkok: Na Tanao 1969

So close to all the hustle & bustle in the heart of Bangkok old town, yet this small boutique hotel is such a laid-back gem. The owners Lynn & Name are clear about what they offer: A “hometel” – a combination of home & hotel. So there’s no room service (who would need that in Bangkok anyway?) but they welcome you with the warmth of sharing. There’s also a small café on the ground floor and a rooftop terrace with a wonderful view of Bangkok. A unique stay in Bangkok for sure!
Na Tanao 1969 Bangkok hotel

How to get to Bangkok?

If Bangkok is the starting point of your Thailand Backpacking itinerary, you probably arrive by plane. The international airport is well-connected to the city and you’ve got many options such as taking a Grab (the Asian version of Uber), taking the train or a public bus. All the options are cheap with the train at 45 Baht (around $1) and the local bus (which takes a bit longer) for even less.
If you’re already somewhere else in Thailand, there are usually good train or bus connections to the capital, as the infrastructure in Thailand is great.
In the area of Khao San Road there are tons of travel agencies selling bus tickets to almost anywhere in Thailand. In this area, you get the best prices, as it’s the area where most who are backpacking in Thailand hang out.

Pagodas in Ayutthaya, a popular day trip from Bangkok while backpacking Thailand

Buddha in Ayutthaya, a famous stop on a Thailand itinerary

Ayutthaya pagodas

Ayutthaya, near Bangkok

Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai is the gateway to Northern Thailand. It’s a small but busy city with some lovely landscapes around it. In my opinion, two days in Chiang Mai are enough to enjoy some street food, see some of its sights, and then move on to the scenic countryside.

As in many places in Thailand, a scooter is the best way to get around the city. But be aware that there are many police checkpoints in Chiang Mai, where they regularly pull out foreigners and check their licenses. Because officially, you need an international driving license, and they charge you 500 Baht if you don’t have one.
I found the map of The Roaming Renegades super helpful, where you can find the usual checkpoints and can avoid them. But the easiest is to simply get an international license before you start your backpacking Thailand itinerary, to save you from the hassle.

ToDo in Chiang Mai:

  • Wat Pha Lat Temple – The most peaceful place around Chiang Mai in my opinion. I could have spent hours in this gorgeous temple surrounded by nature. You also have a beautiful view of Chiang Mai from up there.
  • Baan Kang Wat – An arts and handicraft area with stores and coffee shops where you can get lots of handicraft products, join courses or just stroll around, have a drink and enjoy the atmosphere.
  • Sunday Night Market – Every Sunday evening, the roads in the center of Chiang Mai get closed and a paradise of street food stalls and lots of souvenirs & handicrafts stalls cover the streets – the perfect place to munch!
  • Sticky Waterfall – While I’ve seen many waterfalls, there’s none like this. You can actually climb up the waterfall, as it’s not slippery at all.
  • Royal Park Rajapruek – Beautiful botanical gardens outside of Chiang Mai. Perfect to recharge from the busy city.
  • True Nature Yoga & Meditation Retreat – If you feel like some time for self-care, I can highly recommend spending a few days at True Nature for a yoga retreat in a lovely family setting.
  • DO NOT visit a so-called “elephant sanctuary” – This comes deeply from my heart, as sadly there is no such thing as an ethical elephant sanctuary in Thailand. Ethical would mean that the animals can roam freely in a large area with minimal human interaction. However, that’s not the case in any of the sanctuaries. If you want to learn more about it, read further below.

Temple close to Chiang Mai, a highlight when backpacking in Thailand

Temple close to Chiang Mai on our backpacking Thailand itinerary

Buddha at a temple in Chiang Mai

Wat Pha Lat Temple, Chiang Mai

Eat in Chiang Mai

  • Street food markets – In my opinion the best place to get authentic local food. It’s freshly prepared right in front of your eyes.
  • Bodhi Tree Café – Run by a lovely couple, they not only serve delicious food but also offer cooking classes and yoga sessions.
  • Aum Vegetarian Restaurant – Just outside the center, here you can get amazing Khao Soi.
  • Vegan Society – Lovely Sarah runs this place and cooks such incredible vegan Thai classics.
  • Mild Kitchen – The perfect place to go if you’re craving a fancy breakfast like a smoothie bowl.

Stay in Chiang Mai

Hotels/Apartments
  • Budget stays:
    • ONCE (upon a time) – A small boutique hotel set in a charming wooden Thai house that creates a wonderful, authentic atmosphere right in the center of Chiang Mai.
    • Paapu House – A lovely little hotel in the heart of Chiang Mai where you can see in every detail with how much love Paapu (the owner) runs the place.
  • Premium stay:
    • Hongkhao Village – An incredible oasis with a magic garden. You’ll hardly believe you’re in the city
Hostels
  • Amaka – What an extremely beautiful place and the staff is so welcoming
  • Hidden Garden Hostel – With a lovely little pool in the backyard of a renovated family commercial building

Hotel recommendation for Chiang Mai: Hongkhao Village

A true oasis with its lush tropical garden and a wonderful pool where you can cool down from the heat of the day. It’s the perfect place to recharge and while it’s a hidden, quiet oasis it’s still so close to the city center. No wonder so many travelers come back here when they return to Chiang Mai.
Hongkhao Village Chiang Mai hotel

How to get to Chiang Mai?

Coming from Bangkok you can take a night bus or a night train which is the most popular option for a backpacking Thailand itinerary.
Besides, Chiang Mai also has an international airport which is well-connected with other Asian countries. And it’s close to the city (only around a 15-minute drive) and costs around 160 Baht ($4) by Grab.

Pai

Awww Pai! I was really looking forward to this village up in the mountains of Thailand. And I wasn’t disappointed. A laid-back vibe, amazing street food, a beautiful landscape surrounding it, yoga studios and lovely cafés. Pai is one of those places everyone falls in love with and you could easily get stuck there for a few weeks. It’s for everyone – for nature lovers, for foodies, for yogis, and also for those who like some party.

The best way to enjoy your days in Pai is by renting a scooter, so you don’t have to join crowded tours and can visit everything at your own pace. We rented our scooters in Chiang Mai and drove the epic 762 curves up to Pai by ourselves. I loved the scenic road with its viewpoints and jungly vibes.

From here, it’s not far to Myanmar (only around 30km to the borders), so the culture and food are influenced by Shan people (who had to flee the brutal Burmese military junta) and settled in the mountains of Northern Thailand. Make sure to also try some delicious Shan food while you’re in Pai.

ToDo in Pai:

  • Pai Canyon – A canyon in Thailand may sound weird, and it’s a relatively small one but the view is amazing. I’d recommend going there in the afternoon before the sunset crowd arrives (before 4:30 p.m.). And wear proper shoes because you have to climb a bit and it’s really sandy & slippery.
  • Walking Street night market – From 6 to 10 p.m. they close the walking street which is then sprinkled by street vendors and the most delicious street food. It’s basically where everyone gathers in the evenings.
  • Jazz House – You can bring your street food and listen to live music from different artists from all over the world. We especially enjoyed the open mic session on Sunday nights.
  • Two Huts Café – The best sunset spot in Pai with live music, refreshing drinks and a beautiful view of nature. Make sure to be here at 5 p.m. to catch a good spot. It’s a popular place but still has a relaxed vibe.
  • Mo Paeng Waterfall – A waterfall you can slide down (if you’re brave enough) or just enjoy the fresh water in one of its natural pools. It’s also one of the few waterfalls where you can sit in the sun (most of the time, they’re in the shade between high trees).
  • White Buddha Temple – You can already see it from far away, and have to climb over 300 steps up to the Buddha, from where you have a nice view of Pai village and its surrounding mountains. Remember to bring something to cover your shoulders and knees before walking up.
  • Bamboo bridge – Stretching over 800 meters, this bridge was built for local farmers to reach their rice fields, but has become quite a popular tourist spot as well. There’s a temple in the woods at the end and you can watch water buffalos while walking across.
  • Changpai Cafè – A true hidden gem for sunset. Come here at 5 p.m. at the latest to enjoy an amazing view while sipping your drink or trying their homemade ice cream. We were there all by ourselves and loved it.
  • Mae Yen Waterfall & Hua Chang Waterfall – If you’d like to hiking, choose one of these waterfalls. It’s around a 1.5 to 2-hour hike through the beautiful Thai jungle (and partly through the water – so wear shoes that can get wet or be prepared to take them off) to reach any of these. Well worth it!

Two huts viewpoint in Pai, a highlight when backpacking in Thailand

Pai canyon can't be missed on any Thailand itinerary

A waterfall close to Pai, a highlight while backpacking Thailand

Impressions of Pai: Two huts viewpoint | Mo Paeng Waterfall | Pai Canyon

Eat in Pai

  • Street food market on Walking Street – Even as a vegan you’ll find many yummy street food stalls. From small snacks like spring rolls & samosas to curries, khao soi, tea leaf salad (you have to try that one!) & of course pad thai.
  • Free Bird Café – A vegan café serving authentic Shan food (the people from the Thai-Burmese border who have fled the brutal Burmese military junta). By eating there you support their foundation for Burmese refugees and have a chance to try the delicious Shan food which is different from typical Thai food.
For Breakfast
  • Om Garden Café – A lovely cafe with a shady garden and amazing sweet and hearty breakfast & lunch.
  • Soul Café – Amazing breakfast bowls with a little zero-waste shop.
  • Bom Bowls – For rich smoothie bowls & pancakes if you’re craving something sweet.

Stay in Pai

Hotels/Apartments
  • Budget stay: Pai My Guest Resort – Just outside Pai village, next to lush green rice fields, this family-run resort awaits you with smiling, lovely staff, a great pool to refresh and nice wooden bungalows – each with its own little terrace. We really enjoyed our stay in this green, calm oasis during our time in Pai.
  • Premium stay: Pai Village Boutique Resort – Oh wow, what a little paradise right in the heart of Pai. Here you can stay in a wonderful but traditional wooden Thai hut, enjoy high-class massages and relax in their lush garden by the pool.
Hostel
  • Deejay Pai – In a beautiful setting with a view of the rice fields and free yoga classes in the morning.

Hotel recommendation for Pai: Pai Village Boutique Resort

You won’t believe what a beautiful accommodation you will get here. The bungalows as well as the rooms in the main house are like a dream and the garden and pool area are the perfect oasis to relax. If that’s not enough you can enjoy a professional massage and get pampered. Nothing left to be desired.

Pai Village Boutique Resort

How to get to Pai?

If you’re confident with riding a scooter on your Thailand itinerary, I highly recommend renting a scooter in Chiang Mai and driving the epic route with its 762 curves up to Pai yourself. It’s such a scenic road (and you’ll enjoy it much more than a minibus ride, especially when you tend to get sick on serpentines). There’s one scooter rental company called Aya that offers one-way rentals (e.g. from Chiang Mai to Pai or the other way around), so you can rent your scooter in one city and return it in the other. You can also get your backpack transported, if you’re two people on a scooter.
Otherwise, you can take one of the many minibuses that cruise between Chiang Mai and Pai several times daily. But be aware that it’s a very curvy ride on which many get sick.

Street food on walking street in Pai

Pai night market, a favorite on our Thailand itinerary

By scooter from Chiang Mai to Pai, a highlight while backpacking Thailand

Street food market in Pai & scooter ride to Pai

Southwest | Highlights on your Backpacking Thailand itinerary

Krabi

Krabi itself is the gate to the islands in Thailand’s southwest (while Surat Thani is the gate to the islands in Thailand’s southeast).
But it’s also worth staying a day in this little town on the mainland to enjoy its market and the fascinating Tiger Cave Temple to which you have to climb up 1237(!) steps. For those who think 272 steps up to the Batu Caves in Kuala Lumpur are exhausting, this is truly the next level.
It’s located on a mountain near Krabi Town and called Tiger Cave Temple because – according to the legend – a large tiger used to live inside the mountain’s cave. To honor this tiger, the locals built the temple with a large Buddha statue on top, which you can spot from far away.
Well, and to get to the temple you have to climb up 1237 steps. I went there quite early in the morning, so I’d reach the top of the mountain before it got too hot (which I highly recommend!). Down, at the start of the path you are warned by a sign (so that even those tourists who don’t inform themselves before visiting the temple, know what to expect). What they don’t mention, however, is how high some steps are (some are as high as 40-50 cm – this means not walking up the steps but almost climbing up).
Anyway, when you finally reach the top (I believe my face was as shiny as the golden Buddha’s), the view is really worth it!

After this experience, you’re more than ready for some relaxed days on the islands.

Tiger cave temple, a highlight on my backpacking Thailand itinerary

Street food market in Thailand

Impressions of Krabi: Temples & street food market

Stay in Krabi

Hotels/Apartments
  • Budget stay:
    • Baan Bida – A lovely small hotel with stylish rooms that have their own little balconies surrounded by greens
  • Premium stay:
    • Family Tree Hotel – A wonderful, cozy and modern hotel with incredibly lovely staff and delicious breakfast
Hostels
  • Pak Up Hostel – The best place to stay in Krabi Town, as it’s centrally located close to the pier to the islands and the night market
  • The Bananas – If you want to escape the touristy areas and spend some time relaxing, this is perfect for you.

Hotel recommendation for Krabi: Family Tree Hotel

Located in a really nice house in Krabi Town, Family Tree Hotel offers big, modern rooms and a nice little café downstairs. And the breakfast is amazing. If you’re more of a street food person (like me), the street food market is just a 2 minutes walk from here.

How to get to Krabi?

As Krabi is a famous tourist hub from where you reach many popular islands such as the famous party island Koh Phi Phi or the calmer Koh Lanta, the town itself is very well-connected. From Bangkok and from almost anywhere in the south on your Thailand itinerary, you can get a minibus to Krabi (from the islands on the east coast there are bus+ferry combo tickets, so you don’t have to bother about organizing both modes of transport by yourself).

Koh Lanta

While Koh Lanta is a large island, it’s not as touristy as many of the other, smaller islands close to Krabi, like Koh Phi Phi.
That’s exactly why I decided to give Koh Lanta a chance. And I loved it.
It’s part of the Mu Ko Lanta National Park – so the nature here is spectacular. One of the highlights during our three days on Koh Lanta (besides the yummy Thai food and fruit shakes, and of course the wonderfully warm sea and empty beach) was a snorkeling trip where we stopped at different small islands.

Apart from that, like many Thai islands, Koh Lanta is the perfect place to relax for a few days. Lay on the beach, linger through markets, sip fresh fruit shakes in a beach bar during sunset, enjoy breakfast on the beach, get a massage on the beach and relax in the hammock on our bungalow’s terrace.

ToDo in Koh Lanta

  • Rent a scooter and check out the beaches – There are countless paradisiacal beaches on Koh Lanta, so you have a large choice to find your peaceful spot. Some of the best beaches are
    • Bamboo Beach – An idyllic paradise where you can spend a whole day. There’s also a little bamboo hut selling snacks and cold drinks.
    • Klong Koh Beach – This awesome beach with a laid-back flair and many beach bars is a backpacker’s favorite.
    • Kantiang Bay – A wonderful beach with crystal clear water in the south. Make sure to also make a stop at one of the little restaurants with an amazing view across the bay.
    • Relax Beach – It may still be a hidden gem in Koh Lanta, as it’s a bit further from the major beaches. There are some hippie bars and bungalows around.
    • Nui Bay – A natural beach with a hippy bar
    • Klong Nin Beach – One of Koh Lanta’s major beaches with many bars and little restaurants
  • Snorkeling trip – My personal highlight in Koh Lanta. During the snorkeling trip, we were taken to four islands for snorkeling, swimming, and lunch on the pristine beach of Koh Hai. It’s a few years back and was 800 Baht back then, so I guess it might be a bit more expensive by now.
  • Lay back and relax – It’s as simple as that. When you’re backpacking in Thailand you’re often rushing from one place to the next. So use your time in Koh Lanta to recharge.
  • Lanta Animal Welfare – You can support this non-profit organization by visiting their café (where you can cuddle with lovely cats) or walk a dog. They also do little tours through their sanctuary where you can learn about their amazing work.
  • Hiking in Mu Ko Lanta National Park – Already getting there leads you through spectacular nature. The park’s highlight is the lighthouse on top of the cliffs.
  • Cooking Class – Thai food is the best! And making Thai food is even better! Here you can choose which dishes you want to prepare, vegetarian or vegan versions are no problem at all, and you get all the recipes to take home with you.

Koh Lanta snorkeling trip, a highlight on my backpacking Thailand itinerary

cuddling with cats in Thailand

Pad Thai

Impressions of Koh Lanta: Beaches, cat cuddles & pad thai

Stay in Koh Lanta

Hotels/Apartments
  • Budget stay:
    • The Mellow Mango – Lovely bungalows in a private area not far from the beach, And the staff is amazing.
    • Coco Lanta Resort – Lovely bungalows in a small but gorgeous area right on the beach
  • Premium stay:
    • The Lazy Lodge – A small resort with amazing bungalows that all have a hammock on their gorgeous  terraces
    • Long Beach Chalet – We often came here to enjoy a drink in a beanbag on the beach and the bungalows are just stunningly beautiful
Hostels
  • Aha Lanta Cozy Hostel – In a more secluded area just 5 minutes from the beach this is a really cozy place you’ll love.

Hotel recommendation in Koh Lanta: The Lazy Lodge

Located right on the wonderful Klong Khong Beach beach, these gorgeous bungalows and the lovely staff will leave nothing to be desired. Filtered water is for free so they save plastic bottles. Also, the breakfast and food in the hotel are simply amazing.

The Lazy Lodge Koh Lanta

How to get to Koh Lanta?

Coming from the mainland, take the ferry from Krabi to Koh Lanta. But Koh Lanta is also well connected to other islands in Thailand’s southwest such as Koh Phi Phi and even Koh Lipe. Several ferries run daily.

Koh Lipe

Imagine an island so small that it’s only a 5 to 10-minute walk to the next beach, no matter where you are on the island. Koh Lipe is definitely a unique experience when backpacking in Thailand.
This tiny little island has been a hidden gem in Thailand for a long time, but has been overtaken by tourism. I still remember how my cousins (who live in Malaysia) were raving about this little island right next to Langkawi where they spent their holidays in paradise. For many years it’s mostly been visited by Malaysians for a short beach trip. That has changed in the last 10 years. It’s still a little paradisiacal island but during the high season (November to May) it can get quite crowded.

ToDo in Koh Lipe

  • Beach beach beach – That’s the number one reason for coming to Koh Lipe. Walk to any of the lovely beaches, sip a coconut and relax.
  • Snorkeling – There are some coral reefs around Koh Lipe that you can explore snorkeling
  • Diving – Thailand’s underwater world is amazing, and it’s quite cheap to go diving over here, e.g. with Castaway Divers.
  • Munch on walking street – It’s a small island but with many local restaurants where you can enjoy authentic Thai food. Most of them are scattered around walking street (don’t be fooled by the name, as motorbikes constantly come along here).
  • Beach bars – There’s no better place to have a drink than at a beach bar, don’t you think? I especially liked those around Sunrise Beach.

Koh Lipe, a popular stop on any Thailand backpacking itinerary

Koh Lipe beaches are a unique experience when backpacking in Thailand

Koh Lipe, Thailand

Impressions of Koh Lipe

Stay in Koh Lipe

Hotels/Apartments
  • Budget stay:
    • Castaway Resort – Great bungalows right on the beach. That’s all you need on Koh Lipe. They also have a dive center.
  • Premium stay:
    • Ten Moons – A wonderful hotel with wooden bungalows located in one of the nicest bays in the south of Koh Lipe.
Hostels
  • Bloom Cafe & Hostel – A nice little hostel with comfy dorm rooms and small double rooms that also has a lovely cafe downstairs.

Hotel recommendation in Koh Lipe: Ten Moons

Here you’re right on one of Koh Lipe’s nicest beaches. You can hang out on the terrace of your own little bungalow, relax directly on the beach or enjoy the sea view with a drink from their large wooden terrace. The owner and the team run Ten Moons with so much love and care that you can feel in every corner.

How to get to Koh Lipe?

If you’re coming from Malaysia, arriving in Koh Lipe is the most fun start of your Thailand itinerary. You can take a boat from Langkawi, as it’s not far at all. And this border crossing is probably the most unique I’ve ever done. As Koh Lipe is such a small island, the boat can’t go all the way to the beach. So we all had to grab our backpacks and get into the water (around knee height) and walk to the “immigration office” on the beach. At this little immigration hut, you’re standing in the sand with wet feet while you get your passport stamped. Then you can walk right to your accommodation within minutes. Such a fun experience.
There are also boats from Krabi or Koh Lanta to Koh Lipe if you’re coming from the Thai side.

Southeast | Highlights on your Backpacking Thailand itinerary

Koh Tao

Aww, Koh Tao. Thinking back to this small island always makes me smile. The first time, I set foot on this island I instantly fell in love. Do you know that feeling when you arrive at a place and you instantly have this feeling – a comfortable gut feeling, a feeling of ‘yeah I could stay here for some time’.
Little did I know that I would come back soon and spend over two months here working in a hostel. That was one of the best times.

In comparison to Koh Lanta, Koh Tao is more touristy. It’s probably become THE backpacker island in Thailand, but it’s still not too crowded. The people here are pretty relaxed and so is the atmosphere. That’s something I instantly noticed every time I came back to Koh Tao. The people – natives as well as foreigners – live with much less but seem to be far happier than people back home. I guess that, while they may have fewer belongings and less income, at the same time they have to live with less stress and pressure of society. No one here cares about having a fast car (ignoring the fact that there are almost no cars on this island), or a better job than their neighbor. People live with what they have, are satisfied with the simple things, and they are happy with it.

The island is full of young people, many of them backpackers who are traveling for several months, just like I was during my first visit in 2014. Therefore it’s not hard to get into interesting conversations with so many diverse backpackers. Everyone has their own story and their own experiences to share. But all have one thing in common – a passion for traveling and a love for Southeast Asia.
Besides the fact that it’s a beautiful island, many come here because Koh Tao is one of the best places all over the world to get your diver’s license (and the cheapest). If you’ve got some time and don’t have a diver’s license yet, you’re in the perfect place for it. The peacefulness underwater – floating and just hearing your own breath – is simply stunning.

Koh Tao, a highlight on any backpacking Thailand itinerary

Diving in Koh Tao, almost a must when backpacking in Thailand

Beaches in Koh Tao, baackpacking in Thailand

Impressions of Koh Tao: beach vibes & diving

ToDo in Koh Tao

  • Diving – Of course the no. 1 thing to do in Koh Tao is diving or getting a diver’s license. Can you imagine that on this tiny little island already in 2014 there were 66(!) diving schools? So basically when you walk along the small streets, every second house is a diving school (which makes the decision pretty hard).
  • Relax by the beach – Even though the island is so small (you can get from one end of the island to the other in around 15-20 minutes. So rent a scooter and check out some of the paradisiacal beaches. Some of my favorites are
    • Sai Nuan Beach – A lesser-known, empty beach
    • Freedom Beach – Another beach on the less crowded side of Koh Tao where fewer people hang out
  • Enjoy the sunset at Sairee Beach – I’ve seen some of the most beautiful sunsets in my life on this gorgeous piece of paradise
  • Watch a fire show – One of the classics in Koh Tao at night is hanging out in a beanbag on Sairee Beach, enjoy a drink and watch a fire show (they’re for free, just come to one of the beach bars and they’ll start a fire show sooner or later)
  • Daytrip to Nangyuan Island – Rent a kayak and float to this little neighboring island with its iconic Koh Nang Yuan Viewpoint where you can see the sand lobe connecting the islands
  • Climb up a viewpoint – My favorites were John-Suwan Viewpoint and West Coast Viewpoint for sunset. Make sure to wear proper shoes.
  • Visit New Heaven Reef Conservation – Here you can participate in marine projects or courses to protect and study the underwater world in the Gulf of Thailand.

Stay in Koh Tao

Hotels/Apartments
  • Budget stay:
    • Anankhira Villas – You will love the sea view from up here where you can treat yourself during your days in Koh Tao.
  • Premium stay:
    • Cape Shark Villas – A wonderful place to relax, recharge and enjoy the spectacular sea view from their infinity pool. It’s on the calmer side of Koh Tao but here you can go snorkeling without the crowds & if you’re lucky you will encounter sea turtles.
Hostels
  • Wonderland Jungle Hostel – Located on a hill, you’re in a quieter area (but you’re never far from anything in Koh Tao) and can enjoy the wonderful seaview from up here
  • Savage Hostel – If you want to be right in the heart of the bar and restaurant area, this is the place to go. A beautiful boutique hostel close to Sairee Beach.

Hotel recommendation in Koh Tao: Anankhira Villas

You won’t get enough from this view. When you get up in the morning you will already be greeted by the wonderful sea. Anankhira Villas are located on a hill so you can see quite far. Some of the villas even have a private little pool. You’ve got lots of privacy here to enjoy Koh Tao at its best.
Anankhira Villas Koh Tao

Sunset in Koh Tao, one of the most magical on my backpacking Thailand itinerary

Viewpoint in Koh Tao

Fireshow in Koh Tao

Impressions of Koh Tao: sunsets & viewpoints

How to get to Koh Tao

Koh Tao is right next to Koh Phangan and Koh Samui in the southeast of Thailand. So you can easily reach the island by ferry from one of the two neighboring islands.
From Bangkok or Thailand’s southwest, you need to get a night bus + ferry combo ticket. There are several daily ferries (operated by Songserm – the cheaper, slower company and Lomprayah High-Speed Ferries) and also a slow night ferry.
Be aware that during the rainy season (November & December) the ferry rides can get very bumpy and if the weather is really bad, they may not run for a few days. I’ve met some travelers who got stuck on Koh Tao for longer than expected, so always bring a relaxed vibe when backpacking in Thailand and don’t get stressed if anything doesn’t work out as planned.

Koh Phangan

After an amazing time in Koh Tao, you can perfectly continue your backpacking Thailand itinerary to its neighboring island, Koh Phangan (which is pretty famous for its full moon parties). Anyway, when there is no full moon coming up and you stay far away from Haad Rin, you can have a super relaxed, quiet time here.
I enjoyed some really calm days in Koh Phangan’s north (close to Haad Salad) – an area I can totally recommend. Lush forests, quiet beaches, lovely evenings in beach bars and restaurants.
We went hiking around the north-western part of the island and enjoyed the beaches and beach bars, the incredible food and Thai massages. What else do you need?

If you’re in a party mood and want to experience the famous Full Moon Party, stay in Koh Phangan’s south (Haad Rin Beach). I did go once (during the time I was living in Koh Tao for two months) and well, it was a crazy experience. If you go with the right people you can really have an awesome time at a huge beach party. But I’m much more of a fan of relaxed beach bars, to be honest.

ToDo in Koh Phangan

  • Check out the beaches – Of course, as on any Thai island, the focus is the beaches. I can never get enough of them. Check out Malibu Beach in the north, Haad Salad and Haad Chao Pao in the west and Haad Seekantang in the east which is almost always quite empty.
  • Ao Mae Haad – A beach that is connected to Koh Ma, a small island, by a sand dune during low tide.
  • Temples – Built on a hillside, the Goddess of Mercy (a Chinese Temple) is really beautiful. Also worth a visit are the smaller Wat Pah Saeng Tham and Wat Chaloklum.
  • Watch the sunset from a hilltop bar – The Three Sixty Bar is really amazing, as you can see Koh Ma and Koh Tao. Another great spot that’s still kind of a hidden gem is Cafe 2401 (I definitely recommend these two over the famous and super crowded Amsterdam Bar where you have to be at 5 pm to get a good spot.)
  • Waterfalls – There are a few waterfalls in Koh Phangan. While Than Sadet is the most famous (because the king has been here), I think Phaeng Noi Waterfall is much more spectacular. There’s also a viewpoint nearby (Domesilia Viewpoint) from where you can see Koh Samui.
  • Yoga Retreat – If you want to do something that benefits your body and mind, I can totally recommend The Yoga Retreat Koh Phangan – an Ashtanga yoga center in a calm environment on a hill (almost in the jungle but still only a twenty minutes walk to some beautiful beaches).

Koh Phangan beaches are some of the best when backpacking in Thailand

Koh Phangan sand bar

The Yoga Retreat Koh Phangan

Impressions of Koh Phangan: Beaches & The Yoga Retreat

Stay in Koh Phangan

Hotels/Apartments
  • Budget stay:
    • Benjamin’s Hut – For a budget stay these huts are spectacular. You’re right by the beach in lovely decorated modern huts where you can enjoy the sunsets every night.
  • Premium stay:
    • Mayara Pool Villas – What a dream! It’s not just the sea view that will blow your mind but also the wonderful rooms and their pretty interior. And the location in Koh Phangan’s north is more than perfect.
Hostels
  • Shiralea – Located in Koh Phangan’s calm north this beautiful hostel is not only close to the beach but also a nice chill social area. You can cruise around the island by scooter and explore all the gorgeous beaches.

Hotel recommendation in Koh Phangan: Benjamin’s Hut

The bungalows perfectly blend into the lush, green surroundings, and they’re right on the beach. Lovely cat’s play around in the garden, you can hang out in one of the hammocks and enjoy the laid-back atmosphere of this lovely little accommodation. It’s in the north of Thailand, so it’s much calmer in the area and you can easily get to many of the amazing beaches by scooter.

Eastern Thailand | Highlights on your Backpacking Thailand itinerary

Koh Kut

Right next to the popular island Koh Chang, you can find this little paradise almost at the border to Cambodia. Koh Kut (also known as Koh Kood) is one of those few Thai islands that managed to keep their authentic charm. Some say it’s Thailand’s best-kept secret (let’s see for how much longer). When you cruise around the island you’ll barely meet any other travelers – a rare experience in Thailand.
So you can enjoy remote beaches, sip your coconut under the palm trees without much tourism, or annoying vendors trying to sell you stuff and experience the country’s authentic island life.
There’s not even a 7-eleven on the island which is quite distinct for Thailand. If you’ve been to Thailand you know that there’s a 7-eleven almost everywhere in the country. And so far there’s also no hostel on Koh Kut, so in case you’re traveling solo you have to get a little bungalow.

ToDo in Koh Kut

  • Rent a scooter – This is my favorite thing to do basically on any Thai island, as you can explore all the beaches, discover hidden cafes and restaurants and go at your own pace.
  • Beach, beach beach – In Koh Kut you can be the only one on the beach if you’re lucky. Check out Bang Bao Beach, Khlong Chao Beach or Ao Tapao Beach.
  • Klong Chao Waterfall – A wonderful waterfall in the forest where you can also swim.
  • Huang Nam Keaw Waterfall & Holy Makka Tree – On the way to the waterfall you pass by this 500-year-old tree that is said to spread magic energy.
  • Ao Salat Village – A gypsy fishing village built on stilt houses over the sea
  • Snorkeling trip – Enjoy a day trip to the beautiful reefs near Koh Kut or Koh Rang National Park with three different stops
  • PADI Open Water Course – Dive deeper into the underwater world of this little paradise by getting your diver’s license

Koh Kood, a hidden gem when backpacking in Thailand

Koh Kood, a hidden gem on your Thailand itinerary

Koh Kood beaches Thailans

Paradisiacal beaches in Thailand

Stay in Koh Kut

Hotels/Apartments
  • Budget stay:
    • Suan Maprao – Wonderful little bungalows in a calm area among a lush garden of palm trees where you can hang out in the hammock on your little terrace and may get a visit from one of their lovely cats every now and then.
  • Premium stay:
    • High Season – The perfect resort for your perfect holiday with amazing bungalows, a wonderful spa area, and a great mix of Asian and European food. But the best is the crystal clear sea in front of the resort.

Hotel recommendation in Koh Kut: Suan Maprao Resort

Set among hundreds of coconut palm trees, these lovely wooden bungalows are simple but everything you need in Koh Kut. Here you can hang out in the hammock on your little terrace among a calm, lush garden of palm trees. You may get greeted daily by their cuddly cats or their two lovely dogs.
Suan Maprao Koh Kut Resort

How to get to Koh Kut?

The easiest way is to get a bus from Bangkok to Laem Sok Pier and then the ferry to Koh Kut. The bus ride is around 6 hours to Laem Sok Pier, and the boat to Koh Kut takes only half an hour.
You can also get a boat from one of the neighboring islands, e.g. Koh Chang or Koh Mak.

Thailand backpacking itineraries

3 weeks backpacking Thailand itinerary

Now that you know many of the highlights of your Thailand backpacking adventure, let’s take a look at how you can plan your Thailand itinerary.
I recommend spending at least three weeks in Thailand, especially when you’re visiting Thailand for the first time. During this time, you can have a mix of different islands, towns, and nature.
The best is to start either in the south (which is perfect when you’re coming from Malaysia), and travel all the way from south to north, or starting up north in Chiang Mai (as there’s also an international airport).
  • South-western Thailand (week 1)
    • Koh Lipe (perfect start if you’re coming from Langkawi, Malaysia) | 2-3 days
      → boat to Koh Lanta
    • Koh Lanta | 3-4 days
      → boat to Krabi
    • Krabi | 1 day
      → Bus & ferry to Koh Phangan (2h bus to Surat Thani, 3h ferry)
  • South-eastern Thailand (week 2)
    • Koh Phangan | 3-4 days
      → ferry to Koh Tao (1.5h)
    • Koh Tao | 3-4 days
      → ferry & bus to Bangkok (1.5h ferry to Chumpon, 7-8h bus)
  • Central & Northern Thailand (week 3)
    • Bangkok | 3 days
      → night bus / train to Chiang Mai (10-13h)
    • Chiang Mai | 2 days
      → scooter / minivan to Pai (3h)
    • Pai | 3 days
      → back to Chiang Mai or on to Laos
Of course, you can also turn this Thailand backpacking itinerary around, starting in the north and working your way down to the south. This makes especially sense when you’re backpacking in Laos before and/or planning to head on to Malaysia after Thailand.

Shared taxis Thailand

A shared taxi in Bangkok

2 weeks backpacking Thailand itinerary

If you’ve got only two weeks in Thailand, I’d recommend to concentrate on
  • either Bangkok and Northern Thailand
  • or Bangkok and Southern Thailand (pick 2-3 islands)
The distance from the south all the way north is quite far, so you would lose lots of time getting from one region to the next if you tried seeing it all. Especially when you start in Bangkok which is quite central in Thailand.
The first time I was backpacking in Thailand, I’ve only seen southern Thailand and Bangkok and I already fell in love with the country. But coming back to visit the north some years later was really awesome. I wouldn’t want to miss any of these regions, that’s why I highly recommend spending three weeks in Thailand with the itinerary mentioned above.

4 weeks backpacking Thailand itinerary

With a bit more time, you can add Koh Kut as a true hidden gem at the end of your trip. This is also a great option, in case you’re planning to head on to Cambodia after backpacking in Thailand.

Map of backpacking Thailand itinerary

Map backpacking Thailand itinerary Map of Thailand backpacking itinerary (click for interactive view)

How to get to Thailand?

If you’re arriving from another continent, most likely you’ll arrive by plane at Bangkok International Airport. However, other places such as Chiang Mai (the gate to the north) or Koh Samui (the gate to the south) also have international airports, so you could also start your Thailand itinerary in any of these places.

When you’re backpacking through Southeast Asia, most likely you will arrive from any of the neighboring countries, such as Malaysia, Cambodia or Laos.
From Malaysia, I highly recommend hopping to Thailand through the island border between Langkawi and Koh Lipe. It’s the best experience to stand barefoot in the sand in front of a tiny beach hut that’s also an immigration office, get a stamp, and head right to your beach bungalow.
From Cambodia, you can get to Bangkok by bus from Siem Reap. It’s a bumpy 12-hour bus ride that only costs a few dollars. But there have been many scams on this route (I did that trip in 2015 and back then there were regular troubles such as buses dropping you off at scam offices shortly before the border, ominous scams screwing tourists by foisting overpriced visas on people, and bus journeys taking 12 hours or longer because of the stops at those scam offices and procedures like changing buses many times. The same happened to me as well. But I don’t know how it has changed over the years. So make sure to inform yourself before taking that bus trip.)
From Laos, many love to take the epic slow boat ride to Northern Thailand (Pai) which takes two days through amazing scenery.

How to get around on your backpacking Thailand itinerary?

Thailand is a very easy country to travel through. So many tourists travel there every year that it has such a great infrastructure.
The bus network is awesome and brings you conveniently to any of the popular backpacker places – many of them are connected by night bus. And the night buses are quite comfortable (you can recline your seat, put up your legs and often even get a blanket, a drink, and a snack).
The islands are very well connected by ferries and in most cases, you can even buy a combo ticket (bus & ferry), so you don’t have to worry about missing the ferry.

Also, riding the train in Thailand is fun. There are first, second & third class tickets and even sleeper trains on popular routes (e.g. Bangkok to Chiang Mai), where you have a large choice between aircon or fan and seat or bed. If you’re taking the night train I recommend a lower sleeping bed with a fan (so you can also enjoy the nice view and you’re not in a freezer). But in case you’re taking the train during the day, opt for the third class train as it’s an adventure itself.

Backpacking in Thailand by scooter, shared taxi & taxi boat

Backpacking in Thailand by scooter

Backpacking in Thailand by scooter

Good to know | Backpacking Thailand itinerary

Sustainable travel in Thailand

The problem with sustainability in Thailand hits you once you’ve bought a snack on a train and wonder what to do with the plastic package the food was served in. While I was looking around for some bin, but couldn’t find one, I was shocked to see many Thais simply throwing their plastic litter out of the window. The trash bin was only in the next wagon, but looking out of the window, I realized that the side of the rail tracks was covered in litter.

However, you have to be aware that this is not because locals don’t care. In most cases, they just don’t know better. For centuries they’ve packed their food in banana leaves which was fine to leave next to the road because it rotted after some time. Then plastic captured the world faster than education was able to in many countries.
And soon mass tourism came bringing more and more people to Thailand who again brought more and more litter. In a country with many islands and no proper recycling infrastructure, this can be disastrous.

Another time I went to Koh Lipe at the end of low season. What was nice in terms of avoiding the crowded high season, was even more shocking to see how the island looked when it’s not decked out for the eyes of tourists. Some beaches were completely covered with litter – plastic bottles, plastic bags and much more gross stuff.
Trash is a serious problem over here. Thailand’s beaches and seas are literally drowning in trash. And tourism is a major polluter. This cannot be denied.

Beach in Gili Air, backpacking Indonesia

Let’s keep these wonderful beaches clean

Avoid waste

That’s why we have to make sure to leave as little trash as possible, as the islands cannot cope with the amount of tourists (and thus trash) flooding their beaches every year.
Here are a few ways in which you can be a more environmental-friendly traveler and reduce the litter you cause:
  • Avoid any plastic packaging (say no to any plastic bags, especially on markets & street food stalls, and bring your own tote bag instead)
  • Buy fresh fruit or freshly prepared snacks instead of packed snacks like chips or cookies
  • Bring your own cosmetics instead of using the shampoo samples in any accommodation
  • Say no to plastic straws, plastic cups, chop sticks etc. but bring your own to enjoy the coconuts and fresh fruit juices
  • Bring a water filter bottle, so you don’t have to buy any plastic bottles
  • Pick accommodation that separates trash and operates as sustainably as possible – because sadly public trash bins will never end up in any recycling circle in Thailand
  • Join a beach clean-up or pick up trash yourself when you see some plastic bottles or other trash on the beach

Pad Thai in Thailand

Bringing your own reusable chopsticks can help reduce waste

By bringing your own straw & cutlery you can say no to plastic

Be responsible, respectful and protect the environment

But sustainability is so much more than causing less trash.
Flying from one island to the next, visiting unethical animal attractions, or strolling through a temple in a tank top also makes you a disrespectful tourist.
So I’d like to give you some more recommendations and thoughts on what to avoid:
  • In terms of animal welfare – because you don’t want to cause or support any animal harm:
    • Don’t ever ride an elephant or visit any so-called “elephant sanctuaries” where you can touch the elephants (even bathing) – as this is a serious issue in Thailand I dive deeper into that topic further below.
    • Never visit any places where you can interact/touch any wild animals, e.g. places where you can pet a tiger or feed monkeys. And strictly no animal shows!
    • If you want to interact with animals, support an animal welfare organization such as Soi Dog that helps stray dogs and fights against the dog meat trade in Southeast Asia. You can donate or volunteer on your backpacking Thailand itinerary.
  • In terms of culture, customs & religion – because you’re a guest in a foreign culture:
    • When visiting a temple, adapt to the local rules such as taking off your shoes when you enter, cover your shoulders and knees, never turning your feet or your back against Buddha
    • Don’t touch someone’s head, as this is very disrespectful in Thailand
    • Even when you’re on a beach holiday, try not to walk around (into shops or restaurants) with a bikini or topless as a man.
    • Learn a few words in Thai (at least hello – “sawadee ka” or thank you – “kap koon ka” (as a woman) / “kap koon krup” (as a man))
    • Don’t join any tours visiting long-neck tribes, where the tradition of women putting rings around their necks to elongate them has been exploited for tourism. It causes really bad health issues and many tribes have long wanted to stop but continue for tourism. The worst is that the money from these tours usually doesn’t even reach the villagers but the tour companies.
    • Don’t talk negatively about the king or his family (it’s actually forbidden in Thailand), as Thais love their king and highly respect him
  • In terms of environmental protection – because you want the inhabitants and future generations also to enjoy the country:
    • Use public transport (Thailand’s train and bus network is awesome!) instead of flying from one place to the next
    • Avoid places suffering from overtourism – That’s why I haven’t included Koh Phi Phi and Phuket in this Thailand itinerary. Koh Phi Phi’s Maya Bay is the best example of what happens when too many people crowd one place, and the whole ecosystem collapses from thousands of tourists daily. Eventually, it had to be closed several times and it will take decades to recover.
    • When diving or snorkeling, don’t touch any corals or sea life
  • In terms of economic issues – because you want the locals to benefit from your travels:
    • Spend your money in places owned by locals, such as staying in small locally-owned hotels or guest houses, eating in local restaurants and shopping in local stores (otherwise your money ends up with international companies instead of the inhabitants)
    • Eat local food – it’s part of the cultural experience (and Thai food is so yummy!) instead of western food that you can also get at home.

A Buddhist monk in Thailand

Thailand is a Buddhist country, so respect their traditions

Why not visit elephant sanctuaries?

As an animal lover, I’ve researched this topic extensively and I’ve come to a sad conclusion: I’ve found no truly ethical elephant sanctuary in Thailand. Even for those who officially state on their website, that there’s no feeding and no touching allowed, you can find Google reviews commenting that the statements on the website are not true and they’ve witnessed tourists bathing and feeding the animals (here’s an example).

But let’s take one step back. That riding elephants is a horrible outdated practice is clear to most people with common sense. Riding is only possible after long-term torture to break the wild animal’s spirit so they let humans do whatever they want – riding, performing stupid tricks and more things that they’re cruelly forced to do. This torture ritual is called “Phajaan” – here you can read more about it.
Eventually, riding also leads to cruel spine deformations and back issues. If that’s not enough, those poor elephants are held on short chains their whole life and many of them are showing clear signs of depression.

But you may still wonder: Why is visiting an elephant sanctuary bad? They must have been rescued from their horrible captivity and now lead a happy life with some humans even helping them to take a bath every now and then. Well, that’s only how it looks at first sight.
First of all, terms like “sanctuary,” “refuge,” “rescue,” or “orphanage” are not regulated, so basically any place can call itself an “elephant sanctuary” but continue with harmful practices.

And even practices that may seem harmless like bathing or feeding mean involuntary close contact with humans. Try to see it from the animal’s perspective: If you’ve endured torture, carried tourists on your back for years, and lived on a short chain with humans treating you badly all the time – would you consider humans as your friend? Would you want to continue having dozens of humans around you every day when they’ve been the source of your pain for so long? Would you want them to touch your sensitive skin and bathe with them for their pleasure, when you don’t even feel like bathing? Elephants are extremely smart animals and they can handle their body care by themselves. They don’t need to bathe every day or even several times daily, as they also enjoy being covered in dust which protects their skin.
Besides, in those “sanctuaries” the elephants are kept in small boxes overnight. So in the end it’s all about what’s fun for the human visitors and making money with the animals.

The only truly ethical way of seeing elephants would be in a place where you can only watch them from further away while they roam freely in a large area. No touching, no bathing, no feeding.
As PETA states: “True sanctuaries never buy, sell, trade, breed, exploit, or profit from elephants. They never use bullhooks or punish them in other ways—even out of tourists’ sight—and they don’t force animals who naturally avoid humans into close contact with them. They provide the elephants with the companionship of members of their own species and large natural habitats that allow for normal behavior (…) These facilities are often closed to the public except on certain days—and when they do offer tours, they keep visitors at a comfortable distance so that they don’t disturb the elephants. Visitors are not allowed to touch an elephant there, because these sanctuaries exist for them—not the tourists.”

A suffering elephant in Thailand

A suffering elephant in Thailand

Animals suffering from tourism in Thailand

How is Thailand supporting sustainable tourism?

For sure, improving sustainable tourism in Thailand can not only be in the hands of us visitors who are backpacking in Thailand. The government needs to take action to make their country worth visiting and livable in the long term. That can only be done by protecting the environment and wildlife, educating people, and creating a better waste management infrastructure.

The great news is that Thailand is more and more taking action as you can see with the 7 Greens concept. Part of this was also closing Maya Bay to visitors so it can slowly recover. Besides, they’ve banned single-use plastics from all their national and regional parks in 2022.
There’s still a long way to go. But every step matters.

When is the best time to go backpacking in Thailand?

Thailand is one of those countries that you can basically visit any time of the year.
I’ve been to Thailand at many different times of the year already (December, February-April, September) and always had an amazing time. It’s usually quite hot in the south and Bangkok. Only in the north, it’s a bit cooler (especially in Pai).
Keep in mind that November-December is the monsoon season in the southwest (Koh Tao, Koh Phangan & Koh Samui). This means boat rides can be bumpy or when there are heavy rains and storms sometimes the ferries don’t run daily. However, I went to Koh Tao in December and had a beautiful, sunny time (only the water wasn’t as clear as in other months and the visibility when diving wasn’t as good).

April is the hottest month. Temperatures often reach over 40°C (over 100°F).
Can you imagine swimming in the ocean at night with both water and air temperatures of over 30 degrees? I went for a night swim a couple of times, and each time the water felt like a bathtub, no matter how late at night.

In April, the Thais celebrate a very special festival: Songkran – a festival which is basically a huge water party. It’s Thailand’s biggest holiday, as it is their New Year’s festival. So it’s a wonderful celebration to witness.
People celebrate the Thai New Year by pouring water onto each other. The first thing I saw early in the morning when looking out of the window was a huge bucket of water flying down on some passengers on the street. Really everyone was outside – from small children with waterguns to old ladies with small buckets. Both tourists and locals celebrated together on the street (the tourists as if it was their own New Year’s).

Is backpacking in Thailand cheap?

Traveling in Thailand is really affordable, not only for European travelers but also for those coming from other Asian countries. My cousins from Malaysia love to spend their holidays in Thailand as it’s a bit cheaper than Malaysia.
However, you should know that the north is cheaper than Thailand’s south. Especially the islands are more expensive – hotels, food, activities. For example can you get a meal in a restaurant for about 70 Baht (less than $2) and street food, for example a pad thai for 50 Baht (a bit more than $1) in northern Thailand. In the south you usually pay around 100 – 120 Baht (3$) for a meal and even street food will easily cost you 80 Baht ($2). This may seem little for you but adds up. And you’ll notice it even more when booking accommodation.

Streetfood when backpacking in Thailand

Street food in Thailand is cheap & delicious

Typical Thai Food

In my opinion, Thai food is the best food in the world. You can walk to any street food stall (no matter how dodgy it looks) and order delicious food.
Don’t waste a lot of time eating in restaurants when you’re backpacking in Thailand, because the best food is on the street.
It’s also one of the easiest countries to find lots of delicious, local vegetarian or vegan food.
Here are some of my favorites. Try them all!
  • Pad Thai – The classic! Stir-fried noodles that you can get on many street food stalls.
  • Green Thai Curry – A thin, soupy curry often served with rice.
  • Red Curry – One of my favorites! Spicy and so full of flavors.
  • Penang Curry – While its name suggests a Malaysian origin, it’s a typical Thai dish.
  • Massaman Curry – Another of my favorite curries with potatoes and peanuts.
  • Papaya Salad – Spicy, juicy and so delicious!
  • Cashew nut stir fry – As the name suggests, a mix of stir-fried veggies and cashew nuts in a delicious sauce.
  • Khao Soi – A curry noodle soup with crispy noodles on top, typically served in Northern Thailand
  • Tea Leaf Salad – I also loved this salad typical from the north. So full of fresh veggies and amazing flavor.
  • Pad See Ew – These flat rice noodles are often overlooked next to the famous pad thai, but they’re just as delicious.
  • Spring rolls – Fresh, homemade spring rolls are something I can always eat.

Don't miss the curries when backpacking in Thailand

Khao Soi, a local dish from northern Thailand

Spring rolls in Thailand

Delicious Thai food (all vegan versions): Green & red curry | Khao soi | Spring rolls

Thai language & helpful basics

It’s always nice to know a few words in the local language to show respect and make locals smile. I love how the Thai language sounds. You can basically hear their smiley, welcoming, lovely manner in their language. To me, it almost sounds like singing.

So here are a few words to remember when you’re backpacking in Thailand:
  • Hello – “Sawadee kaa”
  • Thank you – “Kap koon kap” (as a girl) / “Kap koon krup” (as a guy)
  • Delicious – “aloy”
  • Smile – “yim”

Backpacking Thailand itinerary – a wrap-up

Thailand in three words: street food | tuk-tuks | massage

Did you know? Over 27 million tourists visited Thailand in 2023, so let’s treat this place with care

Favorite photo spot:Wat Pha Lat Temple close to Chiang Mai

Favorite food: Pad Thai, Red curry and Papaya salad (and basically everything else!)

Can’t miss: Munch from one street food night market to the next

Are you excited about your backpacking Thailand adventure? Is there something missing in this Thailand itinerary that you highly recommend? Let me know and leave a comment below.

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