Imagine waking up by the sea, the first light spilling through the curtains and the scent of espresso mingling with salt air. Etna looms in the distance, quietly puffing into an orange sunrise. You step outside barefoot, the air already warm, lemons growing on nearby trees. Later, you’ll drive winding roads between vineyards and sleepy villages, stopping wherever the sea calls. Evenings under star-sprinkled skies, a glass of Nero d’Avola in hand, the hum of the waves your lullaby. That’s the rhythm of a Sicily road trip – raw, sun-soaked, and unforgettable.
Being the largest island in the Mediterranean, Sicily is very diverse and feels like a world of its own. It’s where Europe meets Africa, and history sits layered like volcanic rock – Greek temples, Norman cathedrals, Arab domes, and Baroque facades all telling their stories under the same blazing sun.
Sicily is insanely beautiful, raw, calm and slow at times, but can be quirky and bustling in the cities. From the fiery slopes of Mount Etna to the turquoise coast, from Palermo’s chaotic charm to the tranquil fishing villages that seem frozen in time – every corner feels alive with contrast. The island bursts with flavor too: ripe tomatoes, cannoli, pistachios, and that unbeatable granita you’ll crave on any hot day.
Driving around on a Sicily itinerary is an adventure in itself. Curvy coastal roads, olive groves shimmering in the heat, locals zipping past you on Vespas and cars that look like they should’ve been long outlived, and gorgeous views that make you pull over again and again.
This island is perfect for history fans, hikers, beach lovers, and camper souls chasing freedom. Sicily isn’t the polished, picture-perfect Italy from postcards. It’s gritty, sun-drenched, yet full of dolce vita. And that’s exactly what makes it unique.
Ready for my favorite tips for a Sicily road trip? Let’s dive right into my Sicily travel guide.
Contents
Regions & highlights on your Sicily road trip
North Sicily | Vibrant city life, coastal charm & local flair
Palermo
As our ferry slowly floats into Palermo’s harbor, the buildings are bathed in amber, and I instantly feel drawn towards the island’s capital. It awaits us with street music in its maze of cobblestoned alleys, the delicious smell of freshly baked dough at every corner, majestic monuments that have ancient stories to tell, laundry dangling from the balconies, and spreads vitality. We’re in Bella Italia. My heart is full.
Palermo is a city full of contrasts. It’s bustling, lively, down-to-earth yet unexpectedly pretentious at times. And life happens outside – something I absolutely adore in southern European cities. People drink a glass of Spritz or red wine at one of the many bars outside. Or simply sit on the sidewalk eagerly chatting.
Impressions of Palermo
ToDo in Palermo
- Free Walking Tour – Join a free walking tour, which is the best way to get an overview of a new city in my opinion
- NO Mafia tour – Learn about the Mafia and the civil anti-mafia movement on a walking tour through Palermo’s historic center
- Enjoy the view from the cathedral’s roof – For a great view of the city, the mountains and the sea
- Catacombe dei Cappuccini – Not for the faint-hearted, but worth visiting, as the catacombs host the largest selection of mummified bodies and some of them extremely well-preserved
- Via Alessandro Paternostro – The perfect alley to enjoy a drink on the street & soak up the vibe of Palermo in the evening
- Teatro Massimo – Visit the impressive opera house with a guided tour
- Mercato del Capo – An authentic market with lots of street food
- Boat trip of Mondello and nature reserve – Explore Palermo’s beautiful crystal clear waters from a boat, a true highlight on your Sicily itinerary
Eat in Palermo:
- Fúnnaco PizzaLab – An awesome pizzeria serving different kind of doughs, many vegetarian options and you can sit on a bench in a hidden alley while munching your delicious pizza
- A Tipico – A great vegan restaurant offering vegan variations of traditional dishes (also great for baked goods to take away)
- Le Angeliche – If you feel like treating yourself, the hidden garden terrace of this restaurant is an amazing place to do so!
- Ecologica Bistrot – Amazing vegan options in Palermo
Munching through Palermo
Stay in Palermo:
This Sicily travel blog is supposed to offer tips for everyone – no matter if you like to camp, stay in basic apartments or prefer a high-class hotel. So here’s my thoughtfully picked selection of accommodation for you:
Camping spots
- Wild spot: Parking spot among trees – Just outside of Palermo, this free parking spot in the shade of large trees was where we spent the first night on our Sicily itinerary and loved it. The view of the mountain in the back is awesome. It’s just a 10-minute drive to the center.
- Campsite: Camping La Playa – A lovely small campsite among olive trees right next to the sea run by an Italian family, close to Palermo (buses to the city run every hour).
Hotels/Apartments
- Budget stay: Ariston Petit Hotel – A cute, family-run hotel with modern rooms and a lovely host right in the heart of Palermo.
- Premium stay: Ambrosia– A gorgeous small hotel in a traditional Italian house with just 4 beautifully decorated rooms in the perfect location.
Hotel recommendation for Palermo: Ambrosia
What a gem! If you want to start your time in Sicily with an exceptional hotel, look no further. Ambrosia is a stunning small hotel, led by Maria Chiara and her family who will make sure your stay will be perfect. The historic building has been thoughtfully transformed into a beautiful hotel. Plus, it’s just walking distance to everything you want to see in Palermo.
Where to park in Palermo on your Sicily road trip?
We found this parking lot close to the center super convenient (it’s also close to the ferry, so ideal if you want to spend time in Palermo directly after arriving in Sicily or before going on the ferry back). It’s safe and around 15 minute walking distance from the historic center.
Cefalú
Again and again, I came across this small coastal town’s name when talking to friends about their recommendations in Sicily. But what I thought would be a cute hidden gem, has overwhelmed me a bit with its touristy promenade.
I had expected it to be calmer, more authentic, more like a small fishing village. It’s far from being anything like that, yet Cefalú has managed to show its charm at second glance – the further away I walked from the busy seaside promenade & beach. Its cute side resides in the narrow alleys where local taverns have spread out their tables, in the small hidden piazzas in the historic upper town, in the cozy corners where cats take a nap, and in the vast rock shaping the town picture.
Impressions of Cefalú
To Do in Cefalú
- Stroll through the old town – Although the center is touristy, the coastal town is for sure gorgeous and worth a stroll on your Sicily itinerary
- Boat trip with snorkeling & aperitivo – A wonderful small group tour around Cefalú with a snorkeling stop and beautiful swimming spots.
- Street food tour with tastings – Savor the Sicilian flavors in Cefalú while you explore the town and its history and culture (vegetarian and vegan options)!
- Museo Mandralisca – Here you can see how olive oil was traditionally stored
- Lavatoio Medievale – An ancient laundry house with original stone wash basins
- La Rocca – You can hike up the majestic rock behind the city with its panoramic views & an ancient castle and a cistern
- Walk along the cliffs – There are many paths, even with stairs built into the coastal rocks where you can walk along & enjoy panoramic sea views
- Gole di Tiberio – An impressive canyon where you can go rafting, hiking or swimming
- Beaches:
- Spiaggia Kalura – A small pebble beach between rocks with crystal-clear water & great for snorkeling
- Spiaggia di Settefrati – Walk down a narrow path & you’ll be rewarded by a quiet, large sandy beach close to Cefalú
Eat in Cefalú
- TINCHITE’ – A great restaurant with many traditional Sicilian vegetarian dishes (try the delicious caponata!)
- Bastione & Costanza – Reserve a table on their panoramic terrace for a magical sunset on your Sicily itinerary
Stay in Cefalú
Camping spots
- Campsite: Campeggio Sanfilippo – A family-run campsite with its private little beach. Amazingly clean and beautifully set along the hill so many of the spots can enjoy sea view. We loved it here.
Hotels/Apartments
- Budget stay: Azienda Agristica Bergi – A wonderful agriturismo set in lush scenery with food homegrown on the farm, close to Cefalú.
- Premium stay: La Calette Bay– An amazing property with an awesome pool and view of the stunning coastline.
Hotel recommendation for Cefalú: La Calette Bay
Pamper yourself in this beautiful hotel set in a splendid bay overlooking the sea. It’s just a short distance from the center of Cefalú and has a private beach.
A day trip to Stromboli & the Lipari Islands
A highlight that we weren’t able to do on our Sicily road trip. From the harbor of the small town Milazzo, you can do a day trip to the Lipari islands. Either you spend a night (or more) on Lipari and do a boat trip to Panarea and Stromboli. Or you take the ferry from Milazzo to Stromboli for a day trip and join a sunset hike to the active volcano and then spend one more night on the island of Stromboli. There’s a high chance to be able to see lava flows after sunset.
I would have loved to do this day trip, but unfortunately, we had some stormy days so the ferry didn’t run.
East Sicily | From majestic volcano experiences to crystal-clear seas
Etna Region
It feels like Mount Etna, the majestic volcano watching over the island, embodies Sicily’s soul. You can see the vast mountain from many surrounding cities and in good weather conditions, even from afar. Again and again, we were in awe of this view on our Sicily itinerary. When you come across Sicilians speaking of their volcano, you may hear them affectionately calling it “Mamma Etna”. There’s pride. There’s gratefulness. There’s respect.
Even though it’s one of the world’s most active volcanoes, the Sicilians live in harmony, and with respect for its destructive power, but never in fear. Eventually, it’s also a source of life, providing fertile soils for local agriculture and wine growing, and is a solid pillar of Sicily’s tourism industry.
It took me over a week of being on Sicily until I finally caught sight of Mount Etna. It did a good job hiding behind thick clouds for days. And when I finally met its gaze, I was honestly super impressed by its vastness and its snowy top on a Mediterranean island. Kind of surreal.
And the surrounding region is full of natural wonders formed by volcanic activities.
Impressions of the Etna region: Theater in Catania | Gole die Alcantarra | Waking up with Mount Etna view
ToDo in the Etna Region
- Taormina – A (not so surprisingly) very touristy but gorgeous old town worth a stop on a Sicily road trip. For me, one day was totally enough, though.
- Gole dell’Alcantara Canyon – An impressive gorge formed during an eruption of Mount Etna 7000 years ago, when a lava flow blocked the Alcantara River. Because the lava cooled down much faster than normally when it met the cold water, it has formed spectacular basalt columns along the gorge.
- Wine Tasting – Did you know that some of Italy’s best wines grow on the slopes of the Etna Volcano? The volcanic soils offer great conditions and many wineries offer tours & tastings.
- Catania – This city is worth staying several days or spending one day here. Don’t miss the ancient theater and the view of Etna from Via Etnea.
- Etna hike – For me, this was a must during our Sicily itinerary. Hiking around the lava that has destroyed large parts of the surrounding area in 2002 and the many craters from different eruptions throughout the last centuries is extremely impressive. Etna is home to a stunning number of 38 craters! There are several ways to visit, and reaching one of the main craters close to the summit is only possible with a volcanic guide.
- Tour with a 4×4 mini bus to the north crater – A great option if you don’t feel like an exhausting hike, because it only involves a small walk (we opted for this tour, because my partner was struggling with a cold. It was super interesting and because you visit Etna from the less touristy north side, it wasn’t crowded at all.
- Hike to the 2002 eruption crater with a guide – This would have been my choice if we were both fit! I’d highly recommend visiting Mount Etna from the north side, as it’s by far not as touristy and crowded as the southern side.
- ECO Green Etna Tour – A sustainable option to explore the volcano, as the tour operator Go-Etna tries to offer visits with minimal CO2 emissions due to their electric cars.
- Etna e-bike tour – Eco Etna Adventure is a company that focuses on discovering Etna in the most eco-friendly way by e-bike (from a local bike production company).
- Cable Car – The most popular (& therefore also most crowded) way to visit Mount Etna, going up from the more touristy southern slope.
Stay in the Etna Region
Camping spots
- Wild spot: Santuario della Madonna dell’Aiuto – A spot high up in the mountains, where you can stay for a night with your camper van & get a great view of Mount Etna on a clear day (but it can be crazy windy).
- Campsite: Agricampeggio Verde Etna – We fell in love with this simple campsite on our Sicily itinerary. Sleeping between citrus trees, having a pool to hop in & the view of Mount Etna made it just perfect for us. Plus, their restaurant (Agriturismo Fossa Lupo) offers great food.
Hotels/Apartments
- Budget stay: Agriturismo Galea – A recently renovated farm stay housed in a historic building in nature with a huge pool and each room has a private balcony.
- Premium stay: Donna Carmela Resort & Lodges– An outstanding eco resort with a huge garden where you can take refuge to fully experience nature, culture and relaxation.
Hotel recommendation in the Etna Region: Agriturismo Galea
What a lovely place in nature, set among olive and lemon trees, where you can watch the sunset behind Mount Etna. For sure a breathtaking stay!
Siracusa/Ortigia
Ortigia, the historic center of Siracusa, has instantly captured my heart. With its lovely people, its flair, its food. The gorgeous waterfront and the tiny city beach, where everyone hops in for a quick cool dip. The winding alleys and Baroque architecture. This town is said to be older than Rome and carries many centuries of history and myths.
Ortigia | Riserva Naturale Cavagrande del Cassibile (canyon) | Natural pools in Augusta
ToDo in Ortigia
- Stroll through Ortigia’s alleys – Probably my favorite small town during our Sicily road trip. Bring enough time to stroll through its maze of cobbled alleys
- Vegan Food Tour Ortigia – Your guide Tonia will show you the historic market, hidden spots for vegan delicacies and even tell you lots of myths and historical facts about Sicily and Ortigia
- Sundowner by the sea – Either bring a bottle of wine and sit on Ortigia’s pier while you may even enjoy a dip into the sea, or enjoy an Aperitivo drink in one of the seaside bars
- Riserva Naturale Cavagrande del Cassibile – Hike into this canyon where a turquoise river and many natural pools are waiting for you. Don’t miss this on your Sicily itinerary!
- Spiaggia di Punta del Pero – A gorgeous beach close to Siracusa/Ortigia
- Natural pools around Augusta – The peninsula of Augusta is home to several gorgeous natural pools with clear blue water
Impressions of the Vegan Food Tour with Tonia in Ortigia
Eat in Ortigia
- MOON – A spectacular vegan restaurant with amazing creative interpretations of Sicilian classics
- A Putia – A cute little restaurant nestled in a narrow alley where you can soak up the flair. They have some vegan options and don’t take reservations, so you have to be lucky.
- Hotel Gutowski – Amazing view from the rooftop and they have a vegan menu.
Stay in Ortigia
Camping spots
- Wild spot: Next to the sea near Augusta – This was absolutely one of our favorite spots to wake up to in Sicily. The sound of the waves, the rough cliffs and the natural pools we could hop into in the morning. Not easy to get to, but gorgeous!
Hotels/Apartments
- Budget stay: Casa Marene – Beautiful apartments in a quiet neighborhood close to the sea in Ortigia.
- Premium stay: Casa di Melo – An organic and completely vegan country hotel close to Siracusa which is an absolute bliss.
Hotel recommendation for Ortigia: Casa di Melo
What a wonderful location in the countryside, set in an organic farm among lemon orchards. Beautiful rooms, an amazing pool and the best – it’s a completely vegetarian hotel. They offer amazing breakfast and a vegan 5-course dinner in the evenings, which is a rare find in Italy.
Ortigia by night
Marzamemi & San Lorenzo region
The southeastern tip of Sicily has been one of my favorite regions. We came across natural pools formed by cliffs and the dancing waves over thousands of years, woke up next to the sea, fell asleep to crackling fire. Also we loved the flair of the colorful fishing village Marzamemi. So we extended our stay here twice and streched our Sicily itinerary.
Marzamemi is sun-faded walls, tangled fishing nets and cafés spilling out into the square with mismatched rainbow chairs that look like they’ve been stolen from five different grandmas. You order whatever’s fresh, sip local house wine and watch the whole village run on conversation instead of clocks. I absolutely love places like this.
Impressions of Marzamemi
ToDo in Marzamemi & San Lorenzo region
- Sunset drink by the sea – The fishing village Marzamemi is simply perfect for a sunset drink next to colorful fishing boats and the glittering sea
- Riserva Naturale Orientata Oasi Faunistica die Vendicari – A small natural park with several beautiful beaches
- Visit at least one of the Baroque towns – In this area, you can find many gorgeous towns and hidden gems in Sicily, such as Noto, Modica, or Ragusa
- Enjoy some Nero d’Avola – The famous Italian wine grows in the Avola region close to Siracusa, so it’s a must try
- Val di Noto Wine Tour – A guided tour through a winery is a must in Sicily!
- Beaches
- Spiaggia di Calamosche – A natural beach in the Vendicari nature reserve you can reach after a short 20 minute walk (or even combine with a hike in the reserve). Make sure to stop at Oasi della Frutta to enjoy some fresh fruit surrounded by citrus trees.
- Cala Silenzio – A super beautiful little bay with crystal-clear water & the perfect spot where you can stay for a night
Stay around Marzamemi / San Lorenzo
Camping spots
- Wild spot: Next to the beach in San Lorenzo – A really nice spot next to a small beach with beautiful, clear water.
Hotels/Apartments
- Budget stay: Ciriga Sicily Glamping – Beautiful glamping tents and apartments with a pool surrounded by fantastic nature.
- Premium stay: Iuta Farm – A unique, tranquil experience in nature among fruit and olive trees where you can eat homegrown food and cool down in the gorgeous pool.
Hotel recommendation close to Marzamemi: Iuta Farm
What a peaceful haven! At IUTA, you can enjoy homegrown vegetarian and vegan meals from their farm, relax among pomegranate trees and calm down in their absolutely gorgeous rooms and afterwards cool down in the gorgeous pool.
Waking up next to the sea close to Marzamemi
[/fusion_menu_anchor]South Sicily | where history glows and the coast runs wild
Agrigento Region
The Agrigento region, on Sicily’s southern coast, is known for its ancient Greek temples that you can see from afar. The drive towards the Valley of the Temples on your Sicily itinerary is super beautiful. You drive through winding roads, come across olive groves and then you catch sight of these golden ruins glowing in the late-afternoon light. Being here feels like stepping straight into ancient history.
But Agrigento isn’t just about the past. Drive a little further and you’ll find dazzling white cliffs plunging into turquoise water, and sleepy coastal towns where life moves at a slower pace. It feels like here, myth meets Mediterranean ease.
Valle dei Templi | Riserva Naturale di Punta Bianca
ToDo around Agrigento
- Valle dei Templi (Valley of the temples) – The ancient Greek town (actually the name is misleading, because it’s set on a hill) can’t be missed on any Sicily road trip! It includes the Temple of Concordia – one of the best preserved ancient Greek temples in the world. Choose between the following options:
- Guided tour (incl. skip the line ticket) – Join a 2-hour guided tour of the UNESCO World Heritage Site and learn about the history of the stunning archaeological park.
- Skip the line ticket with audio guide – Discover the history of Greek and Roman temples and take an insightful journey with an audio guide.
- Scala dei Turchi – A spectacular cliff of white stone formed by the sea and wind
- Riserva Naturale di Punta Bianca – A great alternative to the Turkish Stairs, much smaller, but also far less crowded.
- Olive oil tasting – Visit an Oleificio to taste different olive oils & learn about the production. We loved our spontaneous stop at Oleificio Perrone on our Sicily itinerary, where we got a little private tasting. It’s a small-scale family production with traditional machines.
- Poggioreale – A bit further inland you can find this ghost town that was destroyed during a huge earthquake in the 1960s and has been deserted since
Stay in Agrigento
Camping spots
- Campsite: Sosta Camper Torre Salsa “U Pantanu” – A very simple and small site, but with warm showers and sea view, it has everything you need.
Hotels/Apartments
- Budget stay: Villa Amoroso – What a beautiful place to stay at! With adorable rooms in a recently renovated historic building.
- Premium stay: Doric Eco Boutique Resort– A unique location with a view of the temples.
Hotel recommendation for Agrigento: Villa Amoroso
A very special place! Set in a beautifully renovated building with a lovely large terrace and garden, everything has been thoughtfully arranged and each room has its own character.
West Sicily | Island dreams, salty sunsets & rugged trails
Marsala/Trapani Region
Driving towards the west on our Sicily itinerary, we could experience Sicily’s wilder, saltier side. Around Marsala, endless salt pans shimmer in the sun. Just offshore, the Egadi Islands wait, with Favignana’s crystal coves and laid-back island rhythm begging you to stay longer than planned. Up in the hills, the medieval town of Erice sits wrapped in clouds, cobbled streets spreading a mystical atmosphere.
And then there’s the rugged coastline of Lo Zingaro National Park – a paradise of turquoise bays, steep cliffs, and trails scented by wild herbs. Western Sicily is where you come to slow down, swim in unreal blue, and taste the pure essence of the Mediterranean.
View of Trapani | Sweets in Erice | Wine tasting
ToDo around Marsala & Trapani
- Marsala winery tour with wine tasting – Get to know the production of Marsala wine in a gorgeous historic winery.
- Discover the saline – See the salt pans and windmills at the Saline della Laguna, famous for spectacular sunsets. You should also consider taking a guided tour through the salt pans with a windmill visit.
- Trapani – We didn’t spend much time in this city, as we wanted to enjoy the region’s nature on our Sicily road trip, but Trapani is a very authentic, Italian city worth a visit.
- Sunset in Erice – A cute mountain village often hidden in mist, but on a clear day it’s an amazing place to visit the sunset.
- Enjoy local sweets – Pasticceria Maria Grammatica that has been offering sweet treats for decades. (The delicious almond cookies are naturally vegan!)
- Coast Lo Zingero – This natural reserve is home to some of the most beautiful beaches in Sicily and perfect for a hike along the coast with spots to hop into the turquoise water every now and then. Unfortunately, it has been closed since a large fire in July 2025. If you visit and it’s open again, let me know. Then I’ll update this post.
- San Vito lo Capo – A cute coastal town popular for kite surfing
Stay around Marsala/ Trapani
Camping spots
- Campsite: Sosta Camper Torre Salsa “U Pantanu” – A very simple and small site, but with warm showers and sea view, it has everything you need on your Sicily itinerary.
Hotels/Apartments
- Budget stay: Albergo Auralba – Lovely rooms with balconies overlooking the bay of San Vito Lo Capo.
- Premium stay: Rakalia Pure Living Sicilian Retreat– A beautiful, luxurious haven with modern design where you can find pure tranquility.
Hotel recommendation close to Marsala: Rakalia Pure Living Sicilian Retreat
A very tasteful hotel in a wonderful property where you can find a peaceful little haven during your time in Sicily.
Favignana
Just off the coast of Sicily, there’s this small paradise island where the water seems even more turquoise, the locals even more laid-back and the time runs even slower than in Sicily. It’s home to some of the best beaches and bays in Italy.
Favignana is part of the Egadi Islands and you can reach it by ferry (1h) from Trapani and spend a whole day here, or even stay for a few nights. If we had more time on our Sicily itinerary, this is definitely a place where we would’ve extended.
Impressions of exploring Favignana by bike
ToDo in Favignana
- Ride a bike around the island – One of the highlights of our Sicily road trip! Rent bikes (or bring your own, but then you can only take the Siremar ferry, as Liberty Lines don’t allow you to bring your bike). You can bike around the island in around 2-3 hours and stop at stunningly beautiful beaches every now and then.
- Munch at the chioscos – You coma across these little kiosks, street food stalls and bars everywhere in Favignana. Often they’re right by the coast and are perfect to refresh yourself.
- Beach, beach, beach – Here are some of my favorites across the island:
- Spiaggia Bue Marino – Not really a beach, but rocks you can lay on and jump into the crystal-clear water
- Spiaggia di Marasolo – Amazing little bay
- Scogliera Cala Azzurra – Great beach with white sands and calm sea
- Spiaggia di Lido Burrone – A paridisiacal sandy beach
Stay in Favignana
Hotels/Apartments
- Budget stay: Villa Pirreca – An amazing modern accommodation with breathtaking views of the sea from its terrace.
- Premium stay: Casa Faro – An elegant hotel with spacious rooms outside of the main town of Favignana.
Hotel recommendation for Ortigia: Villa Pirreca
Just look at this terrace! Isn’t it a dream? Enjoy Favignana by watching the sea when you wake up and before you go to bed in this wonderful, modern villa.
The perfect Sicily itinerary
How many days do you need for a Sicily road trip?
If you want to visit the whole island and get a nice overview of Sicily’s different regions, you should plan at least 2 weeks in Sicily. I’d even recommend 2.5 – 3 weeks to cruise around the whole island on your Sicily road trip without too much stress. This also gives you the opportunity to dive deeper into the local culture and to slow down a bit.
If you have less time, focus on one region.
How to get to Sicily?
I absolutely loved our trip to Sicily by ferry. So that’s definitely the transport mode I’d recommend. I booked it with ferryhopper.com as usual, and it was a smooth experience.
We left Genova at midnight, somewhere between summer and fall, and woke up surrounded by endless blue. 19 hours to cross the Mediterranean Sea – reading, sunbathing, sipping Aperol, and watching the sea roll by. Palermo appeared at sunset, glowing like a postcard.
No rush, no airport chaos. Just the rhythm of the sea. Sometimes, slowing down is the adventure.
Traveling by ferry is more sustainable than taking a plane because it produces significantly lower carbon emissions per passenger-kilometer. So definitely consider this option when planning your Sicily itinerary.
Our beautiful ferry ride to Sicily
How to get around Sicily road trip?
If you ask me, driving around Sicily is a highlight itself. In the cities it can be chaotic, so you should be a confident driver. But many panoramic roads are waiting for you on your Sicily itineray.
On a Sicily road trip, you can stop along the way and enjoy the view whenever you want.
If you have a camper, this is the perfect island for an unforgettable road trip. But you can also come by car or book a rental car to explore Sicily and sleep in local hotels or glamping tents on campsites.
To use the highways, you have to pay tolls, but it’s always just a few euros. And we never had issues finding a secure parking lot with our camper van.
If you arrive by plane and want to rent a car, I recommend booking with Discover Cars. Here, you can compare offers from countless different suppliers, and see how other travelers have rated them.
And you can customize (e.g. size of the cars, manual or automatic transition, how many drivers, customize your insurance coverage, and much more) and benefit from the Discover Cars service, which you can always contact if you have any questions or problems. I have always had good experiences with them, so I can warmly recommend this site.
Sicily road trip impressions
Suggested Sicily road trip itineraries
2-3 weeks Sicily itinerary
- Palermo (2-3 days)
- Enjoy the vibrant capital
- then: drive Palermo ⇨ Cafalú (1h / 40 km)
- Cefalú (1-2 days)
- Relax by the beach & stroll through the cute coastal town
- then: drive Cefalú ⇨ Etna region (1h / 40 km), or make time for a trip to Stromboli on the way
- Etna region (3-4 days)
- Join a tour to Mount Etna, explore the Alcantara Canyon, visit Taormina & Catania, and don’t miss a wine tasting
- then: drive Etna region ⇨ Siracusa (3h / 200 km), with a stop at the pools around Augusta
- Siracusa/Ortigia (2-3 days)
- Discover beautiful Ortigia & the Riserva Naturale Cavagrande del Cassibile
- then: drive Siracusa ⇨ Marzamemi/San Lorenzo (2h / 120 km)
- Marzamemi / San Lorenzo region (2-3 days)
- Enjoy the colorful fishing village, hike into Riserva Naturale Orientata Oasi Faunistica die Vendicari, visit one of the Baroque towns, and enjoy some beaches
- then: drive Marzamemi ⇨ Agrigento (2.5h / 150 km)
- Agrigento (1-2 days)
- Explore the Valle dei Templi & the white cliffs
- then: drive Agrigento ⇨ Marsala/Trapani region (2.5h / 150 km)
- Marsala/Trapani region (2-3 days), with at least a day trip to Favignana Island
- Explore the salt pans, join a wine tasting, visit Erice and the natural park Lo Zingero (and of course Favignana!)
- then: drive back to Palermo for the ferry back (2.5h / 150km)
If you arrive in Catania or Trapani, of course, you can also start the same Sicily itinerary in one of those cities and do the loop from there.
As you can see, it’s quite a tight schedule for 2 weeks, so I recommend 2.5 – 3 weeks, to have more relaxing days in between.
1 week Sicily itinerary
If you have only one week, focus on either the north, the east or the southwest. You can stay in two areas (e.g. in the north start in Palermo, spend 1-2 days in Cefalú and 2-3 days around Marsala/Trapani).
Sicily road trip itinerary (click for interactive map)
Good to know for your Sicily itinerary
Where to stay on a Sicily road trip?
While cruising through Sicily, you can see a lot of campers. There are many wonderful campsites, and strictly speaking, wild camping is not allowed but rather a grey zone (more about that in a second).
But you can also plan your Sicily itinerary with a car and stay in guesthouses, hotels or glamping tents on campsites.
Hotel recommendation for Palermo: Ambrosia
What a gem! If you want to start your time in Sicily with an exceptional hotel, look no further. Ambrosia is a stunning small hotel, led by Maria Chiara and her family who will make sure your stay will be perfect. The historic building has been thoughtfully transformed into a beautiful hotel. Plus, it’s just walking distance to everything you want to see in Palermo.
Hotel recommendation close to Marsala: Rakalia Pure Living Sicilian Retreat
A very tasteful hotel in a wonderful property where you can find a peaceful little haven during your time in Sicily.
Camping in Sicily
Just as in Spain, strictly speaking, wild camping isn’t allowed in Italy. However, there’s a “grey zone” that allows you to stop and rest from driving. So, of course, you can’t unpack your camping chairs, use leveling ramps and get comfortable wherever you feel like and stay for days. But you can stop on the side of the road for the night when you’re exhausted. We never had any problems during our Sicily itinerary.
I’m not encouraging you to camp wildly, I’m just informing you that you can stop and sleep in your car if no one is disturbed by it. Sometimes it can happen that the police or locals ask you to leave. Just stay kind and do so, if they approach you.
What’s the most important: Never leave any trash and treat nature and locals respectfully.
There are many beautiful campsites right next to the sea or with amazing views (from small farms offering a few spots to large scale campsites with a pool and extensive facilities). We found Sicily to be a paradise for campers – no matter which way of camping you choose.
Camping on my Sicily road trip
Sustainable travel in Sicily
Especially when visiting an island, it’s important to protect the ocean. Sicily is stunning, but the island has a huge trash problem. When traveling here, you have to brace for beauty & trash chaos coexisting.
It’s a mess of bad infrastructure, politics, overflowing landfills and the always-growing tourism, which the infrastructure simply can’t handle. And when the system fails, people stop respecting it. That’s why for some locals dumping trash by the roadside has become something normal. But let’s not blame the locals. We’re part of the problem when we travel there and embark on our Sicily itinerary. So let’s make sure to leave as little as possible.
Also, sustainable travel is a broad topic. While many people only connect it to reducing waste or eco-accommodation, there’s so much more to it.
In general, it’s amazing to see more and more sustainable businesses emerging. Initiatives like the “Slow Paths Network” promote slow travel, support for local communities and eco-conscious accommodation.
It’s important to support these businesses as travelers in order to create a boost in demand and contribute to a shift, so we protect the vulnerable ecosystems, wildlife and cultural heritage of the island. That’s the only way future generations – both locals and travelers – can still enjoy the beauty of Sicily as we do today.
Polluted roads on our Sicily road trip | A sign in a nature reserve showing how long different materials need to degrade
What can I do as a traveler?
We as travelers can make a change by making responsible and conscious decisions during our Sicily road trip. Eventually, we want to enjoy our destination, right? And the way we treat the destination significantly influences whether future travelers can still enjoy it the way we did.
And of course, we have to make sure that inhabitants, animals, and the environment don’t suffer from our visit.
I’ve written a comprehensive guide full of tips on how to travel more sustainably. Often, small things can change a lot. Check this out if you’re interested in learning more about it.
You’re not going to fix Sicily’s system, but you can refuse to make it worse. Responsible travel is also about trying to leave no trace.
But to give you the most relevant tips for your Sicily itinerary, here’s an overview of what you should consider in order to reduce the negative impacts of your Sicily road trip:
- Stay with locals: in guesthouses, small B&Bs or hotels. There are many lovely local B&Bs in Sicily where you can experience local life.
- Save energy & water: In your accommodation, skip on getting fresh towels & cleaning daily, use a fan instead of aircon, and take short showers.
- Support local businesses: Eat and shop in small, locally owned restaurants and shops instead of supporting international chains.
- Book eco-friendly tours: for examples with ECO Green Etna Tour
- Cause as little waste as possible: It’s actually simple – Say no to plastic bags, straws and packaging (instead, bring a tote bag). And when you’re on the beach, never leave any trash but dispose of it properly (ideally in bins with waste separation).
- Sort your trash: Even if no one else seems to, many Sicilian towns do have recycling. Look for “Indifferenziata” (general waste), “Plastica/Metalli” (plastics), “Carta” (paper), and “Vetro” (glass).
- If you can’t dispose it, don’t buy it: That late-night street granita in a plastic cup? Maybe skip it if you know the bin is already spilling over.
- Bring your own eco-friendly products: Especially along the coast, make sure to use reef-safe sunscreen without chemicals that harm the ocean, a shampoo bar that saves plastic and a bamboo toothbrush.
- Bring your own water bottle: I never travel without my self-purifying water bottle with which I can filter water anywhere I go and make it drinkable.
- Avoid any activities that involve animal cruelty: such as visiting aquariums. And make sure to book a tour that pays attention to animal welfare.
- Support organizations helping stray cats and dogs and treat these cuties with some snacks.
- Eat responsibly: Besides eating in local restaurants where ingredients are usually from the island, try to eat less meat or even plant-based. This can radically improve your ecological footprint, as meat consumption is one of the most severe causes of climate change.
- Be respectful. When taking pictures, always ask locals before and respect, if they don’t want pictures taken of them.
Besides, packing light and traveling more slowly makes your trip more sustainable as well.
Weather & travel season
When is the best time to go on a Sicily road trip?
As the summer months (June-August) are not only the high season but also the hottest months in Sicily, I recommend avoiding these months, as probably most Sicily travel guides do. Rather plan your Sicily road trip in spring or autumn when temperatures are still great for swimming and beach time, but there are fewer crowds and accommodation is also less expensive.
We were in Sicily from late September to mid October and had an amazing time with temperatures around 22-27 °C, many beach days (on much less crowded beaches) and lots of sun.
Just be aware that Mount Etna is quite high, so if you’re planning a tour or hike up the vocano, bring some warmer clothes. There’s usually snow on top! But with some tour companies, you can also rent clothes and hiking gear.
Sunny days by the sea | Snowy Mount Etna
Language & currency
Italian basics
I always think it’s a shame when travelers visit a foreign country and only stick to English (or even worse, to their own native language). Of course, no one can expect you to learn any language. But learning a few basic phrases in the local language is not only fun and helpful in many situations, but also a way to show respect to the locals.
So this Sicily travel blog wouldn’t be complete without some language basics. Here are a few basic Italian phrases that can help you to improve your time during your Sicily road trip:
- “Hello” – ciao
- “Good morning” / “Good evening” – Buongiorno / Buonasera
- “Thank you” – grazie
- “You’re welcome” – prego
- “How much is it?” – Quanto fa?
- “Could I have…” (e.g. a glass of wine)? – Potrei avere… (un bicchiere di vino)?
- “Without meat” – Senza carne
Is a road trip in Sicily expensive?
I experienced traveling in Sicily around the same price level as the rest of southern Europe. How expensive your trip gets depends a lot on your way of travel. If you prefer fancy dinners and boutique hotels, you can easily spend an expensive vacation. But you can find beautiful places to stay for <100€ per night and gorgeous campsites for <30€.
Food in Sicily
Food is such a huge part of a country’s culture. Food is love. And everyone loves Italian food, right?
Besides pizza and pasta, there are many local dishes you have to try on your Sicily itinerary. Being an island, there’s plenty of seafood dishes in Sicily, but you can find many delicious vegetarian options as well:
- Panelle – chickpea fritters (a typical, naturally vegan street food in Palermo, often also served inside bread)
- Busiate – A pasta form very typical for Sicily, often served with fresh tomatoes & almonds
- Pasta alla Norma – Pasta with fried aubergine, tomato sauce and ricotta
- Pasta with pistachio pesto – A Sicilian classic, as the famous Pistachio da Bronte grow in Sicily
- Caponata – Chopped aubergines, olives and other vegetables in a typical “agrodolce” sauce (a sweet & sour tomato sauce), often served with bread
- Arrancini – Fried rice balls (in many places you can find ones with vegetarian filling)
- Gelato in brioche – Yes, Sicilians like to eat their ice cream in a bun. I haven’t tried it, unfortunately, but I’m extremely curious.
- Granita – THE best refreshing thing you can get on a hot day in Sicily! And they’re almost always vegan.
- Cannoli – Probably Sicily’s most famous sweet treat. A tube-shaped shell of fried pastry dough, filled with a sweet ricotta cheese cream.
Sicilian specialties: Busiate | Caponata | Cannoli | Granita
Sicily road trip – a wrap-up
Sicily in three words: Etna | ceramic heads | arrancini
Did you know? Mount Etna is the tallest and one of the most active volcanoes in Europe.
Favorite photo spot: Anywhere with Mount Etna in the back
Favorite food: Pasta alla Norma and Caponata (I simply loooove aubergines!)
Can’t miss: Have as many granite as you can!
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