Wide smiles. Hospitable eyes. The Indonesians welcome you with so much joy and curiosity once you hit the road on your Indonesia itinerary.The country awaits you with delicious food, tropical climate and breathtaking nature. Be prepared for volcanoes with turquoise crater lakes, huge waterfalls, lush rice fields and ancient rain forests.
While it seems like everyone has been to Bali by now, for many travelers the horizon of Indonesia ends after this island’s borders. Which is such a shame because Bali is just one of 17,000 Indonesian islands, and the Balinese culture (dominated by Hinduism) is way different from the rest of Indonesia (which is a Muslim state).
I’ve been to Bali nine years before backpacking through more of the country on my Indonesia itinerary. And I had the feeling that back then I hadn’t seen much of Indonesia, just staying in the Bali bubble.
And I fell deeply in love, once I looked beyond my own nose. Java has been such an authentic experience, with barely any other international tourists and Lombok filled my heart with its lovely people and paradisiacal beaches.
So make sure to leave enough freedom on your Indonesian itinerary to see more of this beautiful, diverse country than one famous (beautiful but overly touristy) island.
Table of contents
Highlights on your Indonesia itinerary
Indonesia itineraries
Good to know for your Indonesia itinerary
Highlights on your Indonesia itinerary
Lombok
Lombok was the first stop on my Indonesia itinerary, and it got right into my heart. I was welcomed so warmly (not just literally because of the heat) but also by the locals.
Travelers often refer to Lombok as “the Bali from decades ago” – as it has the easy-going vibe of Bali, the perfect surf spots, gorgeous yoga studios and the smiling locals. But it’s not as overcrowded, westernized and touristy yet. Lombok is really trying to keep its authenticity and its traditions alive besides the fast-growing tourism.
For your Indonesia itinerary, I’d recommend staying a few days in the south of Lombok (in Kuta) and rent a scooter for day trips to the nice beaches, opt for some yoga classes or go surfing.
After that, head into the lesser-visited north where you can enjoy the true beauty of Lombok’s nature. Waterfalls, volcano hiking, rice terraces – Lombok has it all.
Rent a scooter and enjoy nature at its best. I honestly don’t understand why so few travelers make it to Lombok’s central region and the north. You can basically circle the majestic volcano by scooter (make sure to rent a good one, as there are some really steep streets and gravel roads as well). This scooter trip was probably the highlight of my two weeks in Lombok.
By the way, their original local language in Lombok is Sasak. Locals usually learn this as their mother tongue, and later also learn Bahasa at school.
Make sure to know at least how to say “Thank you (very much)” in Sasak: “(Matur) tampir asih!“
ToDo in Lombok’s south:
- ninē-ninē – not only a shop where local Sasak women sew beautiful products (headbands, bags & much more), but also a place where you can do cultural workshops during which you cook local dishes and learn about Lombok’s traditions. We had such a fun and interesting afternoon there.
- Sade Village – A Sasak village (locals of Lombok) built of traditional bamboo houses. You will be welcomed by a local at the village entrance and they only ask for a donation of which you can freely choose the amount at the end. Lovely to learn more about Lombok’s traditions!
- Bukit Merese – A beautiful sunset spot on the cliffs, but when you get there walk up the hills to the left, as the right side gets crowded and there were several locals with falcons and owls on short leashes. I guess they want you to pay for them to let them fly, like playing with a kite. Please don’t support any animal-harming activities like that.
- Beaches – There are so many beautiful beaches in Lombok with soft, white sand such as
- Tanjung Aan – One of the most popular beaches for swimming & for surfing. It’s large, so it doesn’t get crowded but when we were there it was super dirty (full of plastic bags) unfortunately.
- Selong Belanak – A piece of paradise also often enjoyed by local buffalos who like to hang around the beach
- Making Beach – Another paradisiacal beach close to Selong Belanak
- Pink Beach – It’s not really pink, but beautiful all the same
- Snorkeling Tour – Oh wow, these waters will blow your mind! Enjoy snorkeling around Lombok’s Hidden small islands in a private full-day tour. If you’re lucky you can swim with sea turtles!
- Orong Bukal – A lesser-known viewpoint across the cliffs which we got recommended by a local
Impressions of Lombok’s south: Beach | nine nine workshop | Yoga at Mana Eco Retreat
ToDo in Lombok’s central & northern area:
- Tetebatu rice terraces – One of the most magical places in Lombok in my opinion. They’re all family-owned, so you need to stay in one of the homestays in order to visit the rice terraces, or book a tour through the rice terraces like this one.
- Bukit Selong viewpoint – Here you have an amazing view across seemingly endless vegetable fields (for an even nicer view, hike up to Pergasingan hill, but that’s around 1h hiking)
- Waterfalls – There are so many impressive waterfalls in Lombok’s north & central area.
- Sendang Gile & Tiu Kelep Waterfall – We visited those two which were breathtaking and you can take a shower underneath. Make sure to park at Gate 1, because I read a lot about people trying to scam you at Gate 2 by saying you have to go with a guide. The entrance fee is only 20K and you really don’t need a guide, unless you don’t feel comfortable walking through rivers or you’re traveling with small kids.
- Benang Stokel & Benang Kelambu Waterfall – Two amazing waterfalls just south of the volcano. It’s 70K to visit both waterfalls together (including parking). Be aware that here you’re not allowed to swim with a bikini, but they will give you a sarong. Another option is to book a rafting tour at Benang Kelambu Waterfall.
- Hike up Mount Rinjani – The impressive volcano in the middle of the island with a huge crater lake. But the hike takes at least 2 days (with one night) and is really tough. I didn’t manage to do it during the rainy season, but I heard a lot of people raving about this epic hike. So if you’ve got the chance to do it – do it: Mt. Rinjani 2-Day (1 night) Trek – For this spectacular experience you spend one night in a base camp right at the crater rim. What a once-in-a-lifetime experience!
Impressions of Lombok’s north | Tetebatu ricefields & Sendang Gile Waterfall
Eat in Lombok (Kuta):
There are so many places where you can get really good food. Also vegetarian & vegan is no problem in Kuta. You can have it all – from simple, authentic Warungs (local restaurants) to fancy places with bowls or pizza. Here are a few examples:
- Warung BUDE – A local restaurant serving many delicious dishes such as Gado Gado, Nasi Goreng & Vegetable Curry.
- Warung Flora ‐ A recommendation by locals and it was delicious and cheap.
- Mana Eco Retreat – Their restaurant is as amazing as their facilities. You should try the vegan Laksa or the Nori Bowl. And the breakfast menu (smoothie bowl or porridge) is also delicious.
- Oolaa Bar & Restaurant – A super nice place. Try the Mandalika Curry.
- Kenza – Also one of the more high-class restaurants that are nice for brunch or dinner.
Stay in Lombok:
- In the south: Mana Eco Retreat – What a gorgeous oasis in Kuta, where you can do yoga retreats, refresh in their beautiful pool, and enjoy amazing vegan food.
- In the central area: Tetebatu terrace homestay – A simple homestay but with a lovely view across the family’s rice terraces which you can also visit.
- In the north: Rinjani Lighthouse – A wonderful surprise and our lifesaver when we were at Sendang Gile Waterfalls and a thunderstorm came. Even more beautiful than it looks in the pictures.
Hotel recommendation for Lombok: Mana Eco Retreat
I spent a magic week at this little paradise with wonderful daily yoga classes, the best massage I’ve ever had anywhere in Asia, and lovely new friends I met there. They have great yoga teachers and occasional events such as cacao ceremonies. You can also do a 6-day yoga self-retreat with unlimited yoga, different spa treatments, and (amazing!) food included. Or just book a room or dorm bed (a beautiful dorm room with a little terrace & an outdoor shower!) & get a yoga pass to enjoy any yoga session you want. The staff welcomes you with big smiles every day. The perfect place to calm down for a while between all the adventures on your Indonesia itinerary.
How to get to Lombok?
You can either reach Lombok by boat from Bali, the Gili Islands or from Flores.
From Bali you can take the ferry (takes 6 hours) leaving from Padang Bai Harbor and arriving in Lembar (in Lombok’ south).
From here you can take a Grab/Gojek or rent a scooter to head to Kuta or to the north.
There are even some tour agencies that offer the famous Komodo Island Tour starting in Flores (the island east of Lombok) and ending in Lombok. It’s usually a 3-day or 4-day trip on a boat where you stop on different scenic beaches and small islands as well as the Komodo island (famous for the huge Komodos loving there).
If you fly to Lombok, there’s just one airport, right in-between Mataram and Kuta. The transport to Kuta is 150K (usually it’s cheaper than a Grab).
The Gili Islands
Located between Bali and Lombok, these super small islands have become a popular beach stop on any Indonesia itinerary, especially for Bali and Lombok travelers.
And when I say small, I mean small – here you can actually walk around the island in half an hour!
Choose the island depending on what you feel like: Gili Meno is the honeymoon island with romantic beach bungalows, Gili Trawangan (also called Gili T) is the party island and Gili Air is a relaxed, calm piece of paradise. I stayed on Gili Air for 5 nights and I can highly recommend it.
No cars, no scooters, just bicycles and horse carriages. Additionally, there are no dogs and no police (imagine a place so peaceful that there is no need for police). Gili Air is a quite rural island where coconuts and fishing apparently are still the main source of income (as opposed to the more touristy Gili Trawangan). You really feel like you’re in a different world.
The locals here are just lovely. While walking over the island, passing by some bars and restaurants the locals always wanted to start some small talk and remembered my name when I passed by the next day.
And the kids! Adorable! You see them on their small bicycles or playing on the beach catching crabs and fish. And even though they only speak a few words of English, they always wave, say ‘helloooo’ or even run towards you and want to give you a hug.
I’ll always remember these cute little Indonesian boys who proudly showed around some kind of starfish they had found in the water with huge smiles.
Impressions of Gili Air
ToDo on the Gili Islands:
- Enjoy the beaches – Grab a book, head to one of the white beaches, enjoy the calm water and relax.
- Walk around the island – It will only take you around half an hour.
- Go snorkeling – Even from the beaches, you can see amazing fish, corals and even turtles if you’re lucky. But chances are even higher with a snorkeling tour.
- Go diving – During one dive, I saw at least six sea turtles, all of them at least over a meter big. One was eating some seaweed, another one was sleeping, and one swam up to the surface in order to gasp for air – it was amazing. The visibility was awesome too – the water was so clear that I could see the shining colors of hundreds of fish and corals from far away.
- Join a cooking class – Learn how to make typical Indonesian delicacies such as Gado Gado during a fun afternoon.
Stay on Gili Air:
- H2O Yoga – A lovely yoga hostel just a few minutes walk away from the beach.
Hotel recommendation for Gili Air: H2O Yoga
Because I loved my stay here, I recommended this place to a friend of mine who just stayed in Gili Air at the beginning of 2024, and I found out that it has become even nicer. It’s been a few years since I stayed here, but it was already lovely back then. By now they also added a pool to this little oasis.
How to get to the Gili Islands?
Reaching the Gili Islands from Bali or from Lombok is super easy.
From Bali, there are daily fast boats departing from Padang Bai to the Gilis taking around 1.5 hours. And there’s also a slower ferry which is cheaper but takes longer.
From Lombok, the fast boat starting in Teluk Nare Harbor only takes 10 minutes to Gili Air. There’s another fast boat from Senggigi.
Inbetween the islands, there are daily slow boats connecting Gili Meno, Gili T and Gili Air.
Bali
While Bali has become extremely touristy, it is still a very special place with a unique vibe and spirit.
Here, you can enjoy Hindu temples, rice terraces, stroll through the beautiful villages, explore the island by scooter, and indulge yourself with yummy Indonesian food and fancy bowls. And of course do yoga every day or surf the waves every morning.
Just be aware to respect local traditions and to leave as little trash as possible, because the island has a huge trash problem due to the masses of tourists flocking to Bali every year.
The Balinese are so lovely, cordial and welcoming. Make sure to engage with the locals as much as you can, and you’ll learn some interesting things about Balinese culture.
For example, did you know, that there are only four first names in Bali? Wayan, Made, Nyoman and Ketut – Wayan is the firstborn, the second child is always called Made, the third Nyoman, and eventually Ketut (if a family has five kids, it just starts with Wayan again). Imagine, having the same name as dozens of your friends, your parents, maybe even your partner, no matter if female or male. So they develop nicknames such as ‘Wayan the guitar player’ or ‘Ketut with the fizzy hair’. So be prepared for 25 people out of a crowd of one hundred turning around when calling for Ketut here on Bali. It’s amazing, and reminds me again of why I love traveling so much – you never stop learning while exploring different cultures.
For your Indonesia itinerary, I highly recommend skipping Kuta in Bali – as opposed to Lombok’s Kuta, in Bali’s town of the same name, local sellers are really intrusive and seem to never accept a “no”.
Rather spend a few days in Uluwatu and definitely plan enough time in Ubud – you’ll fall in love with it for sure, especially if you’d like to do some yoga on your Indonesia itinerary or love to hang out in organic cafés.
Seminyak is the place to be for surfers, and in Canggu many digital nomads hang out. But it becomes more and more covered with buildings, attracts some crazy party people and you’ll come across more tourists than locals by now. So not my type of vibe to be honest.
ToDo in Bali
- Uluwatu – An impressive temple built on the cliffs on the south coast.
- Ubud – The charm of Ubud resides in its beautiful mixture of rice terraces, ancient temples that are hidden somewhere all over the place, the smell of incense sticks in the alleyways, the many yoga centers, and the healthy & spiritual people lingering there, the cozy small cafés and restaurants, and of course the delicious Indonesian food.
- Climb Mount Batur for sunrise – It may sound crazy to get up at 1:30 am to climb Bali’s highest mountain. But it’s so worth it! I have to admit that the climb up to the top of Mount Batur was pretty exhausting, especially considering the small amount of sleep. As we made our way up, we could already see the sky slowly coloring in beautiful shades of orange and yellow, and we finally reached the top of the volcano shortly before sunrise – a mind-blowing view that quickly lets you forget all the exhaustion. To recharge after, book a tour to Mount Batur with a visit to natural hot springs.
- Ubud Water Palace – A gorgeous temple in Ubud. You can either eat on the terrace of the restaurant next to it for a beautiful view of the temple, or enter for 70K. You get a Sarong at the entrance.
- Pura Beji Dalem Sapat (Purification & Water Temple) – A wonderful piece of Balinese culture just outside Ubud. Here you can do a water blessing, but please respect the Balinese traditions when you enter and wear a Sarong. I’d say it’s best to enter with a guide who can explain to you the Balinese cleansing tradition and knows the different fountains’ meanings (e.g. some are only used for funerals – so don’t make the mistake and use those).
- Join some yoga classes in Ubud – E.g. at the Yoga Barn. There is always a special vibe when many people who share the spirit of yoga come together. It feels like a community – the yogis there not only join all different kinds of yoga and meditation classes but also hang out together in their café in between or after classes and enjoy their delicious healthy food. Here, I had some of the most inspiring conversations of my whole trip.
- Head to the lesser-visited north – Get more authentic impressions of this touristy island by heading to its north, e.g.
- Pura Ulun Danu Bratan – A stunning temple on Lake Bratan in northern Bali.
- Waterfalls – The area of Tabanan has some incredible waterfalls: Sing Sing Angin, Blahmantung, Pengempu, and Leke Leke
- You can also book a day trip to the north of Bali, but spending several days in the north is for sure the deeper experience.
Impressions of Bali: Ubud rice fields | Uluwatu Temple | Sunrise on Mount Batur
Stay in Ubud
Hotels/Apartments:
- Imagine Bali – A wonderful small hotel in a traditional Balinese house with a tropical garden and lovely outdoor bathrooms for unbelievably affordable prices
- Aryas Villas Ubud – Wooden villas located among rice fields just outside Ubud, some of them even have a ricefield view
Hostels
- Puri Garden Hotel & Hostel – A lovely boutique hostel in the heart of Ubud with free yoga classes, free massages, family dinners and even puppies
- In Da Lodge – Among the fancy hostels that are getting more and more expensive, this is a super nice but affordable hostel with a pool right next to some rice fields
Hotel recommendation for Bali: Imagine Bali
You won’t believe what a beautiful accommodation you will get here for around 25$ per night/person. The lovely tropical garden is for sure the highlight of Imagine Bali. A true little oasis hidden in a side alley in Ubud. And their Indonesian breakfast is amazing!
How to get to Bali?
When you start your Indonesia itinerary In Lombok, you can hop over to the Gili Islands and then on another boat to Bali, or get a boat directly from Lombok to Bali – super easy (see the sections on how to get to Lombok / how to get to the Gili Islands).
And also from Java, you can reach Bali by boat from Kalipuro. The boats run every hour & you will arrive in Gilimanuk (in Bali’s west). That’s a great starting point to explore Bali’s lesser-known north.
Many travelers arrive by plane at the Denpasar Airport in Bali which is close to Kuta. But I highly recommend skipping Kuta. Instead, directly move on to Uluwatu or Ubud.
Impressions of Ubud, Bali
Java
I wasn’t the only one who had the impression that you need to get out of Bali to experience the true Indonesia. While you can already experience Indonesian culture in Lombok, you should consider spending some time in Java as well on your Indonesia itinerary.
It’s far less touristy and full of amazing places such as impressive volcanoes, stunning waterfalls, lush rice paddies, mosques and antique temples.
We barely saw any other Europeans (which I loved) while backpacking in Java. I was surprised that even at seemingly touristy places such as the Prambanan Temple, there were only 2-3 other international tourists.
You can either get to Java by boat from Bali (if you have visited Bali before) or fly to Jakarta to start your Indonesia itinerary there.
Jakarta
To get a first feeling for Javanese culture, the capital Jakarta is a great starting point. Well, it’s an Asian megacity and I always think you have to be in the mood for a city. But if you are, it’s worth spending a few days in Indonesia’s capital.
We felt fairly safe in Central Jakarta and you can easily walk around a bit to explore.
It’s a busy Asian city for sure, but much wealthier and in better shape than we expected. As we were told, a worker in Jakarta can easily earn the yearly salary of a Balinese in just one month.
Also the train station Gambir is super organized and modern (I’ve seen so many dirty, chaotic stations in Asia that I was quite surprised). From here you can get the train to many destinations on your Java itinerary, such as Bandung & Yogyakarta.
ToDo in Jakarta:
- National Monument – It’s set in the middle of a large park that you can enter for free, just if you want to enter the monument itself with the museum inside.
- Istiqlal Mosque – The largest mosque in the country, as a tourist you can enter after 10 a.m. and get a free tour. Right opposite it, the largest church in Indonesia & they share the same court – a symbol of harmony.
- Old Batavia – The old part of the city (which is unfortunately quite run down)
- Free Walking tour – Get to know Jakarta’s main attractions in a fun and interesting free walking tour with Kenya – an Indonesian globetrotter who will make you fall in love with the capital
- Street Food Tour – Head on a street food feast on Jakarta’s pasar malam (night market) and get to know Indonesia’s best local foods
Impressions of Jakarta
Eat in Jakarta:
- Burgreens – For vegan versions of Indonesian classics such as Soto Ayam or Satay.
- Loving Hut – An authentic, simple but delicious vegetarian restaurant serving local food.
Stay in Jakarta:
Hotels
- Loewys Home – A wonderful little hotel with a rooftop pool in western Jakarta
- Double Tree – For a high class stay in a quite central location
Hostels
- Capsule Hostel Old Batavia – A great hostel in perfect location to meet other travelers but to also have some private space in your little capsule
Hotel recommendation for Jakarta: Loewys Home
Located in a really nice house just west of central Jakarta, Loewys home offers big, modern rooms and a nice, small rooftop pool where you can cool down from the heat. There’s also a lovely café attached.
Bandung
The next stop in our Indonesia itinerary brought us to Bandung – another major city in Java. However, it’s rather worth visiting the area outside of the city (in the area of Ciwidey).
So you can either join an organized tour or rent a scooter and explore yourself, as we did. But be aware, that it’s quite a long ride that takes around 2 hours one way to Ciwidey through A LOT of traffic. So only rent a scooter if you’re an experienced driver. Also, I have to be honest that the scooter ride isn’t scenic or fun (as opposed to the landscape around Yogyakarta). In and around Bandung, traffic and pollution are crazy. So we even took out some old masks at one point, to protect ourselves from the dust and the exhaust gases.
To be honest, even though the area around Ciwidey is worth seeing, I’m not sure if the hassle through the pollution and traffic is actually worth it and if I’d visit Bandung again. I think I mights stay longer in Yogya and explore more around that part of Java. Or join a tour to Ciwidey’s highlights with transportation from Bandung (instead of the crazy scooter ride).
ToDo around Bandung:
- Kawah Putih (“White Crater”) – The volcanic crater is the main highlight in this area with a turquoise acid crater lake that puffs out sulfur gases. Park here & the entrance incl. a shuttle bus up to the crater is 110K ($7) per person.
- Rengganis Suspension Bridge – With 370 meters it’s the longest suspension bridge in Southeast Asia and you can look over the jungle & the hot springs.
- Hot Springs (Cibuni Rengganis Crater) – The volcanic activities create natural hot springs that are included in the ticket of the suspension bridge (100K for the whole area). However, I perceived them as quite dirty and didn’t feel like entering the water.
- Tea plantations (Perkebunan Teh Rancabali) – Not as spectacular as the tea plantations in the Cameron Highlands in Malaysia, but nice to drive through.
Around Bandung
Eat in Bandung:
- Kehidupan Tidak Pernah Berakhir – a simple, local vegan foodcourt where you can get super cheap, delicious food.
- Hejo Eatery Eyckman – Vegan & Plant-based Comfort Food – The name says it all. It’s a bit fancier but worth a try. Try the Rendang, “Chicken” Katsu or the Udon noodles. We loved it all!
Stay in Bandung:
Glamping around Ciwidey
- Villa Bima Syandana – Stay in a lovely tree-house villa outside of Bandung close to all major sights
Hostels
- The Attic – A cool hostel with a nice dorm room (with pods), located in a great area in Bandung with lots of restaurants close by (I’d only recommend if you want to stay in dorm beds because the private rooms are not that nice)
Hotel recommendation around Bandung: Villa Bima Syandana
Surrounded by beautiful nature, here you can escape busy Bandung and enjoy the lush, fresh area around Ciwidey. The view from the rooms is spectacular. And its location is perfect, as you’re quite close to the White Crater, the tea fields, and the suspension bridge.
Yogyakarta
After all the hustle and bustle and crazy traffic in Bandung, we were so looking forward to a calmer place on our Java itinerary. And in Yogykarta we found exactly what we were craving. The city is much smaller than Jakarta and Bandung and has a more laid-back vibe.
And renting a scooter to drive around Yogyakarta to the temples and waterfalls is so much fun. These are the scenic scooter rides we’ve missed so badly in Bandung.
Yogyakarta (often also referred to as Yogya) has a strong arts and handicrafts scene, and it’s supposedly the place Batik is from – the traditional way of coloring fabric with wax and a stick (in Javanese “ba” means lines and “tik” means dots, referring to the way of applying color & wax).
ToDo in Yogyakarta
- Borobudur Temple – The largest Buddhist monument in the world. Make sure to buy the “structure” ticket, otherwise you’re only allowed to walk around the monument. But the true beauty is at the temple’s top (you can get up to the 9th level). Be aware that there are no more sunrise tickets, although they used to be popular. The scooter ride to get there is also super nice.
- Prambanan Temple – A beautiful, large complex of Hindu Temples (the largest in Indonesia). Sadly, many pagodas were destroyed during an earthquake, and they’re still in the process of restoring it. Nevertheless, it’s very impressive. Before sunset is a great time to visit but make sure to be there at 4:30 p.m. to still walk around a while before sunset. There’s also an option to visit both temples in one day with a Borobudur & Prambanan Temple combo tour.
- Bandung Pedut – My favorite hidden gem close to Yogyakarta. After a beautiful scooter ride through rice paddies & jungle roads, you reach these waterfalls and their turquoise natural pools where you can swim & cool down from the heat. You can perfectly combine it with your visit to Borobudur Temple. It’s not well-known (yet) & with us there were only a handful of locals around.
- Taman Sari – The water palace, a wonderful example of Javanese architecture in the heart of Yogyakarta.
- Kotagede – An old neighborhood of Yogya with traditional wooden “joglo” houses. A great way to visit & discover more about its history is with a guided tour.
- Jomblang Cave – A cave with a hole where you have to rappel down & get a unique view, especially when the sun is high up. But it’s a 1.5-hour scooter ride from Yogya. Or you can visit with a guide and transportation from Yogya.
- Siung Beach – A beautiful beach surrounded by cliffs around 2 hours drive from Yogya
Prambanan & Borobudur Temple close to Yogyakarta
Eat in Yogyakarta
- Veganissimo – It may sound fancy, yet it’s a very simple, but delicious local vegan restaurant (no English menu, so you may need to use Google Translate). The Saté was so yummy!
- Loving Hut – Yummy local (all vegan) food. Also over here, we fell for the Nut Satay. It probably became our favorite when backpacking in Java.
Stay in Yogyakarta
Hotels/Guesthouses
- Bedhot Homestay – What an amazing homestay in a traditional building. Enjoy sitting on the veranda in the mornings and make yourself at home.
- Siji Gempol Vacation Home – The perfect home away from home in a calm area but still close to the center.
Hostels
- Wonderloft Hostel Jogja – A hostel with a cool tub to cool down from the heat? How cool is that! Plus, it’s a really beautiful, stylish hostel in the perfect location.
Hotel recommendation in Yogyakarta: Bedhot Homestay
Set in a traditional wooden Javanese House, with a large comfy terrace, this is the perfect place to relax and recharge. An absolutely beautiful place in a local neighborhood. The staff is probably the loveliest you will encounter in all Yogyga.
Waterfalls around Yogyakarta | Water Palace
Karimunjawa
Up for some small island vibes after all the cities? Here’s a true hidden gem in Java: Karimunjawa, a small island off the coast of Jepara. It awaits you with wonderful beaches, clear water perfect for diving, and relaxed vibes. It’s how I imagine the Gili Islands some 40 years ago before all the mass tourism hit.
Not many international travelers make it here when they’re backpacking in Java, as it’s more off the beaten track and not covered in many Indonesia itinerary guides out there. On the ferry, we were once again the only Europeans among the locals. Already loved it!
We spent Christmas here and even during the high season (it’s also the holiday season in Indonesia), the island wasn’t crowded at all.
So rent a scooter and explore the island’s remote, natural beaches.
ToDo in Karimunjawa:
- Relax by the beach – Grab a book, find the shade of a palm tree, and lie down. That’s how you can fill your days in Karimunjawa. The most beautiful beach was Pantai Alano. Worth paying the 5K because they really do their best to keep the beach clean.
- Watch the sunset – Our favorite spot to do so was Laendra Sunset Beach in the north of the island. Almost no people here (in comparison to the sunset beach in the south of the island got quite crowded with local tourists).
- Go snorkeling – The water is so nice and clear that you can even spot a lot of colorful fish just by swimming around the beaches with rented snorkeling gear (or you can do a snorkeling trip where you also visit other islands – either a private snorkeling tour or on a shared tour). And I’ve never seen a place where so many corals grow so close to the beach! The underwater world is spectacular here.
- Go diving – If you want to explore the Indonesian sea life deeper, this is the perfect place to do so. Diving is cheap and you can see so many fish and corals, if you’re lucky even dolphins and turtles down there.
Impressions of Karimunjawa
Eat in Karimunjawa
- Vegan green traditional stall – Among all the street food stalls gathering around the football field in Karimun village, there’s one veggie food stall.
- Saung Odang – One of the few places where you have a good choice of vegetarian dishes. The Cap Cay and the Gado Gado at this simple, local Warung were really good.
Where to stay in Karimunjawa?
- Eco Casa Resort – Located right by the beach, this little, family-run resort is a wonderful place to recharge.
Hotel recommendation in Karimunjawa: Eco Casa Resort
Ester and Stefano run the lovely little Eco Casa. The wooden bungalows are gorgeous and from most of them, you can view the sea. They helped us a lot with organizing transportation and day trips, such as a snorkeling trip. But you can also borrow their snorkeling gear and simply swim out to the corals. The wooden pier next to it was one of our favorite spots to watch the sunset.
How to get to Karimunjawa?
The best starting point to go to Karimunjawa is Yogyakarta. You can book the night bus from Yogyakarta to Jepara Harbor at the Day Trans Office. Make sure to tell them that you want to go to Jepara Harbor (not Jepara City). It’s 150K per person and a relaxed night bus ride leaving Yogya at 11 p.m. & you’ll arrive at the harbor at around 5 a.m.
Check out the ferry times here. On some days, only the Siginjay slow ferry runs, starting at 7 a.m. (Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat) & on some days there’s a speed boat starting at 9 a.m (Mon, Tues, Fri, Sat).
We took the slow ferry when we were backpacking in Java, and it was a calm 5-hour trip with many smiling locals wanting to take pictures with us. The slow ferry is 105K per person.
Malang/Surabaya
While neither Malang nor Surabaya is a beautiful city (and Malang is even quite cold), these are the best starting points to visit some of the best and most popular volcanos in Java: Mount Bromo and Mount Ijen.
Also, there are some stunning waterfalls around.
If you only plan to visit Mount Bromo, however, you can also opt to skip Melang and Surabaya on your Java itinerary and simply do a Bromo tour from Yogyakarta or even a 3-day tour to Mt. Bromo and Ijen from Yogyakarta.
ToDo around the area of Malang
- Mount Bromo Volcano – There are several options to visit Mt Bromo: private tour, shared tour, or organize it by yourself. We did a private tour, as we were 4 and it was around the same price as a group tour. We were picked up from Surabaya at 11:30 p.m. and after 2 hours by car & 1 hour by Jeep arrived at the starting point of the mini hike. Yep, it’s a mini hike – you only have to walk up a little bit, as you can drive up quite far. It’s freezing up there! I put down any offers to rent a jacket, but I really regretted it. So I’d recommend you do so (it’s only 10-30K, depending on your haggling skills). Unfortunately, it was quite cloudy, so we didn’t get the best sunrise. That happens a lot when you’re backpacking in Java during the rainy season. The dry season brings a clearer view. After that, you get breakfast, drive closer to the crater and walk up 30 minutes to the crater rim. Standing on the edge of a volcano crater is quite impressive, but it’s becoming more and more touristy, so don’t expect to be the only one up there. You can drive all the way to the starting point by scooter yourself, but I heard that you have to pay almost as much for parking, entrance fees etc that a tour is much more convenient.
- Mount Ijen Volcano – As this volcano is further east and involves a longer hike, it’s usually a 2-day/1-night trip. We didn’t have the time to do this in the end of our Java itinerary, but I heard from many other travelers that the view of the blue crater lake & the “blue fires” is really unique. You even have to wear a mask because of the gases. On the other hand, it’s even more touristy than the Bromo hike, so it gets quite crowded, especially during the high season. A popular option is to book a combined tour to Bromo & Ijen.
- Madakaripura Waterfall – Close to Bromo, this gorgeous waterfall can easily be combined with the trip to Bromo. Many travel agents offer a Mount Bromo & Madakarpipura Waterfalls Tour (which is what we did). From the parking, you need to take an ojek (scooter taxi) to the entrance & walk for around 30 minutes. Bring some slippers or shoes that can get wet, as you cross the river on the way and walk underneath several waterfalls. While many visitors wanted to wear raincoats, we enjoyed the cool shower and preferred to actually feel the power of nature. As it was raining the day before, the water wasn’t as blue as it usually is, but the 200 m waterfall was still impressive.
- Tumpak Sewu Waterfall – Many say, this is one of the most impressive waterfalls they’ve ever seen. The huge Waterfall forms a huge half-circle and on a clear day, you get a breathtaking view of the volcano in the background. If you can manage to squeeze it into your Java itinerary, I really recommend doing so.
Mount Bromo & Madakaripura Waterfall close to Malang
Indonesia itineraries
How to get to Indonesia?
Most probably you will fly to Jakarta (Soekarno-Hatta International Airport). From here, you can start exploring the large island of Java or head directly to one of the other islands, such as Lombok.
International flights usually arrive at Terminal 3. If you continue with a domestic flight to another island (e.g. Lombok), you will need to change the terminal – most likely to Terminal 2 (from where the local airlines such as Lionair & Batik Air depart).
From 6 a.m. till 9 p.m. there’s a free skytrain connecting the terminals within minutes. During night hours, you can get from one terminal to another by shuttle bus (be aware that there’s a free shuttle bus running approximately every 30 minutes) and a paid shuttle bus.
Taxi drivers will try the usual tricks by coming up with stories such as “you have to wait 1.5 hours for the shuttle bus” or “the shuttle bus is only for staff”. But this is just them trying to get customers.
You can also fly directly to Bali (Denpasar airport) and start your Indonesia itinerary from there. It’s certainly the “softer” start, as Bali is quite westernized in comparison to the more rugged Java.
How to get around Indonesia?
There’s no need to fly within Indonesia, unless you want to visit a more remote destination (e.g. Sumatra, Borneo or Sulawesi).
Inbetween islands (e.g. from Lombok to Bali or to the Gili Islands) you can easily take the boat (ferry/speed boat). If you’ve got the option to chose the ferry, I’d always do so. Especially in the rainy season the waves can be really shaky and a speed boat ride very unpleasant.
On Bali & Lombok you can find minibuses or share a Grab with other travelers to get from one place to the next.
Around Java there’s a great train network. All places on this Indonesia itinerary located in Java can be easily reached by train (apart from Karimunjawa, where you have to take the bus & ferry). It’s definitely the most comfortable way to travel around the large island.
We always chose 3rd class train tickets (“Ekonimi”) expecting chickens in the wagons, old wooden benches and crazy train rides. But it was always a relaxed ride with comfortable seats and pleasant air conditioning (not too cold, which I cannot stand). For me, there’s no point booking a 2nd class (“Bisnis”) or 1st class (“Exekutif”) ticket, which usually costs double the price.
Once you arrive at your destination, you can rent a scooter to get around or use Grab or Gojek (the Asian version of Uber).
Around Java by train
Around Java by train & scooter
How many weeks do you need for your Indonesia itinerary?
Well, that’s a tough question, as the country is huge, and with 17,000 islands you’ll never be able to see it all.
I’m covering the places I’ve visited myself in this Indonesia itinerary guide, and to see all the places mentioned you would need six weeks.
Of course, that’s too long for a usual vacation. So yes, it’s totally possible to spend 3 or 4 weeks in Indonesia and see many amazing places as well. I just recommend spending at least three weeks in order to visit two islands.
6 weeks Indonesia Itinerary
To experience all the places mentioned in this Indonesia itinerary, you need to have enough time.
You can either travel from west to east (Java → Bali → Gili Islands → Lombok) or the other way around, starting in Lombok and ending your trip in Jakarta (in Western Java).
Here’s a suggested itinerary for 6 weeks & how to get from one place to the next:
- Java (2 weeks)
- Jakarta 2 days → train to Bandung (2h, 150K in 3rd class)
- Bandung 2 days → train to Yogyakarta (8h, 260K in 3rd class)
- Yogyakarta 3-4 days → bus & ferry to Karimunjawa (bus: 6h, 150K + ferry 5h, 105K)
- Karimunjawa 3-4 days → ferry & bus to Malang/Surabaya (we shared a private transfer for 550K which ended up being as cheap as the buses & trains from Jepara → Semarang → Surabaya)
- Malang 2-3 days
- → bus & boat to Bali (from Ketapang in Java to Gilimanuk in Bali)Note: If you’re planning to do only Bromo & not to head on by boat to Bali, then I’d recommend skipping Malang/Surabaya and doing the Bromo trip from Yogyakarta. There’s really not much else to see in Malang/Surabaya apart from being the better starting point for the volcanoes & waterfalls.
- Bali (10 days)
- Bali’s east & north 3-4 days
- Uluwatu 2-3 days
- Ubud 3-4 days
- → boat to Gili Air
- Gili Air (3-4 days)
- 3-4 days on Gili Air
- → boat to Lombok (either to Padang Bai or to Senggigi)
- Lombok (7-10 days)
- Kuta 3-4 days → rent a scooter to Tetebatu (2h)
- Tetebatu 2-3 days → ride by scooter to Sendang Gile
- Rinjani/Sendang Gile 1 day → ride back to Kuta or add volcano hike (2 days)
Note: After that, Lombok is the perfect starting point to head on to Flores & do the Komodo island tour.
3 weeks Indonesia Itinerary
In 3 weeks, I’d choose no more than 2 major islands, e.g. Lombok & Java, Bali & Java or Lombok, the Gilis & Bali.
I’ve visited the places in this travel guide on two separate trips, once 4 weeks in Indonesia and another time spending 3 weeks in Indonesia.
Indonesia itinerary (click for interactive map)
Good to know for your Indonesia itinerary
What’s the best time to visit Indonesia?
I’ve read a lot about May – October being the perfect time to visit Indonesia, as it’s the dry season. However, you have to consider that it’s more crowded during this time, the rice fields are not as lush and the waterfalls have little water.
Eventually, I ended up visiting Indonesia once in December (which is supposed to be the most rainy month) and once in May.
I was lucky to experience rain only a handful of times during three weeks in Indonesia in the rainy season. But even if it does rain, it’s usually only a few hours in the afternoon. So you can still enjoy the days, do lots of activities and have an amazing time on your Indonesia itinerary during the rainy season.
Thinking of Bali, the beginning of May was a great time to visit this beautiful island. It is not only the end of the rainy season, so you can enjoy the sun while the rice fields are still shining green. It’s also the time of some very special holistic Hindu festivals – Sariswati on May 2nd (devoted to Dewi Saraswati, the Goddess of Science & Knowledge – on which we were offered free food in a second-hand bookstore) and Pagerwesi on May 6th (the day to strengthen one’s fortifications against evil). We were fortunate to experience wonderful ceremonies, such as huge street parades and special offerings on the street. The correlation between Pagerwesi and the Saraswati is that knowledge is so powerful that it must be protected from bad influences – a very wise way of thinking!
Street parade on Pagerwesi in Bali
How expensive is Indonesia?
Traveling in Indonesia is quite cheap, especially when you’re backpacking in Indonesia. You can get a meal for as cheap as 15.000 Rupiah (less than 1 US$), but I’s say on average you pay around 30.000 IDR (around 2 US$). There’s great accommodation already for around 15 US$ per person per night. In Java, everything gets a bit more expensive the closer you’re to Jakarta (e.g. in Lombok we paid 60.000 IDR (4 US$) for a scooter per day, while in Bandung it was 150.000 IDR (9 US$) for one day). Food was still cheap all over the country though.
For sure, Bali is way more expensive with its many fancy cafés and advanced tourism. You can still find authentic little Warungs (local restaurants) here, but many places charge around 60.000-90.000 IDR (4-7 US$) for a meal here. It may still sound cheap but will easily add up.
In my experience, traveling in Indonesia is really cheap, but depending on the way you travel, and where you decide to stay and eat, your Indonesia itinerary can get more expensive.
By the way: Some banks charge a fee for withdrawing money from an ATM. But you can also find some that don’t charge any fee. I don’t remember the names of those who didn’t charge us, but you can find them.
Nasi Campur (Rice with tempeh & veggies) for less than 2 US$
How to travel more sustainably in Indonesia?
Indonesia is home to one of the largest rainforests in the world. And for sure, deforestation is one of the most severe threats to Indonesian rainforests, due to urbanization and palm oil production. You may even experience extremely cloudy periods due to the forest fires (meaning that the clouds are actually no clouds but haze from the fires). Those are illegal fires that not only harm the rainforest but also ruin the habitat of thousands of animals. At the same time, the fires cause a dangerous haze all over Indonesia, Malaysia, and Singapore.
There have been periods when I was in Malaysia and people weren’t allowed to leave their houses because the unhealthy haze due to Indonesian fires had gotten so dense.
So the protection of these rainforests is of utmost importance. The Indonesian government and numerous organizations and nature conservation associations are working hard to conserve this precious nature. Sumatra’s national parks which are home to some of the last wild orangutans, Sumatran tigers, and a huge biodiversity are already UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Also, Borneo is one of the five areas with the greatest biodiversity in the world.
At the same time, tourism is growing fast, as is the population in the country’s megacities. New hotels are being built everywhere in the country, especially on Islands such as Bali and Lombok. Especially the exploding tourism in Bali is becoming more and more dangerous to its environment and inhabitants. Hindu traditions are not respected by many tourists visiting the island, the island is drowning in its trash (there’s only one waste management company on the island, so the trash is loaded on former rice fields, and lots of it ends up in the ocean). Comparing countries, Indonesia is ranked among the top five plastic producers, but sadly it doesn’t have any sufficient recycling infrastructure.
Let’s protect this stunning nature
What can we do as travelers?
We as travelers can make a change by being more responsible and making conscious decisions on our Indonesia itinerary. We all just want to enjoy our destination, right? And the way we treat our destinations significantly influences whether future travelers can still enjoy them the way we can.
And of course, we have to make sure that inhabitants, animals, and the environment won’t suffer from our visit.
Try to stick to a few rules to avoid waste:
- Avoid any plastic packaging (say no to any plastic bags, especially on markets & street food stalls, and bring your own tote bag instead)
- Buy fresh fruit or freshly prepared snacks instead of packed snacks like chips or cookies
- Bring your own cosmetics instead of using the shampoo samples in any accommodation
- Say no to plastic straws, plastic cups, chop sticks etc. but bring your own to enjoy the coconuts and fresh fruit juices
- Bring a water filter bottle, so you don’t have to buy any plastic bottles
Of course, it’s not always possible to avoid waste, so
- Pick accommodation that separates trash and operates as sustainable as possible – because sadly public trash bins will never end up in any recycling circle in Indonesia
- Join a beach clean-up or pick up trash yourself when you see some plastic bottles or other trash on the beach
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Bringing your own straw, cutlery & filter bottle can help reduce waste
Besides, with the following recommendations you can also make a difference so your destination won’t suffer as much from tourism:
- Avoid domestic flights – rather take the trains, buses and ferries which take you comfortably from one island to the next in Indonesia
- Book local guides on your Indonesia itinerary
- Select eco-tour operators who operate with respect for the environment
- Support the national parks and rehabilitation centers with a donation, so Indonesia’s threatened species can be protected. My favorite is BOS – they do an amazing job in rescuing orphaned or injured orangutans (and make sure there’s as little contact with humans as necessary so they can be released back into the wild once they’re strong enough)
- Support locals (eat in local restaurants, buy in local shops, stay with locals), so your money goes to the locals instead of international companies
- Interact with locals to learn about their cultures
- Volunteer to support local environmental organizations
- Travel in the low season (that’s usually the rainy season in Indonesia)
- Save water & energy in your accommodation
- Respect local traditions, especially when visiting religious sites
Please don’t support any activities that harm animals, such as so-called “elephant sanctuaries” where visitors can still bath and touch the animals (would you want to be constantly touched by strangers and “bathed” with sponges even though your instincts make sure you take care of your body care in your way?)
And give some love to stray animals! Many dogs and cats yearn for some cuddles more than for food. If you give them some water or a bit of food, you can make them even happier. In case you see an injured animal, bring it to the closest vet or animal organisation.
Let’s keep the beaches clean by reducing waste and be nice to stay animals
Let’s protect this stunning nature, be nice to animals & respect traditions
What’s Indonesian food like?
Gado Gado, Urap Urap, Olah Olah – the names of Indonesian dishes already indicate what they are like – simple but delicious. One thing is for sure, if you like peanut sauce, you will love Indonesian food!
It’s not too spicy, so even when you’re sensitive to spices, you can try lots of Indonesian food.
No matter where you are, especially in the more touristy places such as Bali or the Gili Islands – make sure to also eat in some local Warungs (the local restaurants) & not just the fancy places. Supporting locals is important, and trying local food is a huge part of experiencing the culture.
Typical Indonesian dishes:
- Nasi goreng – fried rice
- Mie goreng – fried noodles
- Nasi Campur – a mixed dish with rice, tempeh, vegetables, and typically chicken, but sometimes you can find it without meat or can ask to leave the chicken out
- Gado Gado – a dish popular in Bali & Lombok with vegetables, tempeh and a thick peanut sauce
- Curry – in many places you can find a vegetable curry
- Urap Urap / Urap sayur – mixed vegetables with grated coconut
- Olah Olah – vegetables with coconut milk
- Soto – Indonesian noodle soup, originally with chicken (“Soto Ayam”), but sometimes you find it with vegetables
- Tempeh – In many Indonesian dishes you will find tempeh, which (like tofu) is made from fermented soybeans, but as opposed to tofu, they’re still whole in tempeh
- Gudeg – A specialty from Yogyakarta with jack fruit (but don’t choose the package which usually comes with meat, so only take the Gudeg)
Typical drinks:
- Jamu – traditional herbal juice, e.g. the one from Lombok is made with tumeric, ginger, lemon, cinnamon & cloves
Indonesian food (all vegan variations of traditional dishes)
What language do they speak in Indonesia?
The official Indonesian language is Bahasa Indonesia – almost the same language as in Malaysia (Bahasa Malayu). When you continue to Malaysia after your Indonesia itinerary, you will notice many similarities.
This language, however, has been introduced during the Dutch colonialism. So all the different islands and regions have their own, original languages, such as Javanese in Java or Sasak in Lombok. They’re completely different and have no similarities at all with Bahasa. Most people speak their own, traditional language and learn Bahasa at school.
Here are a few phrases in Bahasa to help you with easy conversations in Bahasa:
- “Welcome” – Selamat datang
- “Good morning” – Selamat pagi
- “Good afternoon/evening” – Selamat petang
- “Hello” – Helo
- “Thank you” – Tarima kasih
- in Lombok dialect: “tampir asih”
- in Javanese: “matur nuwun”
- “You’re welcome” – Sama sama
- “I want …” (e.g. fried rice) – “Saya nak…” (e.g. nasi goreng)
- “Without meat/chicken/fish” – Tak mau daging/ayam/ikan
- “Not spicy” – Jangan pedas
- “A little bit spicy” – Sedikit pedas
- “How much is it?” – Berapa harga nya?
Which is the best sim card in Indonesia?
Before I bought my local sim card, I was comparing different operators. And pretty much everyone recommended Telkomsel, as they have the best coverage across the country and allegedly also the fastest network.
So I decided to get a Telkomsel sim card as well and wasn’t disappointed. Be aware that it’s much more expensive to buy a sim card at the airport (500K for 25 GB nationwide) than buying it in one of the cities and towns (150K for 50 GB). But if you want to use Grab for the ride from the airport to your accommodation, that’s the best way to do it.
Indonesia itinerary – a wrap-up
Indonesia in three words: adzan (mosque prayers) | batik | nasi goreng
Did you know? Most locals aren’t used to seeing westerners, so most probably they will ask you if they can take a picture with you at some point. If you’re not comfortable with that, you can kindly decline.
Favorite photo spot: Underneath Sendang Gile Waterfall in Lombok
Favorite food: Gado gado and vegan saté
Can’t miss: Traveling beyond Bali to experience the true Indonesia
Did you enjoy these Indonesia itinerary tips and recommendations? Indonesia is such a huge country, so there’s so much more to explore. Let me know if you have any tips and additions.
More travel inspiration for Asia
Hi I’m Visiting your travel blog has been an absolute delight! this post is absolutely fantastic and beyond helpful for planning trip The presentation is very nice, and the pictures are even more beautiful. Every moment spent on your blog feels enriching and never wasted. Thank you from the bottom of my heart for sharing this wonderful world of travel through your eyes. Your work truly inspires and brings joy to travel enthusiasts like me.
Warm regards,
Sreenandhana Santhosh
Kerala Tourism.
Wow, thank you Sreenandhana. Your words brought a huge smile onto my face!
Dear friend superb guide you covered almost everything a traveler should look into. I’ve been thinking lately that I would love to visit
I am glad to read your blog about your travel experience very interesting thanks.
Your personal experiences and vivid descriptions truly bring the city to life, making me feel like I’m right there with you on this incredible journey. Your blog is a wonderful source of inspiration for fellow adventurers looking to explore the magic of.
Keep sharing your stories and insights – they’re a delight to read!
Thanks for your kind words, Saritha! So happy that you like my Indonesia itinerary & tips :)