Imagine sitting in a small café at the side of a dusty road while backpacking in Cambodia, watching the busy streets crowded by tuk-tuks, rusty motorbikes, and donkey carts. Nearby, an about five-year-old trying to sell bracelets next to an old man frying tarantulas. You’re still overwhelmed by the vast ancient temples you’ve visited for sunrise. Millennia-old history overgrown by trees. Like a battle between man-made monuments and nature. Time to get some rest and savor all the impressions in one of the remote islands at the end of your Cambodia itinerary.
As soon as you enter the country when backpacking in Cambodia, you realize this country is one of a kind. It’s a different world. As one of the poorest countries in Southeast Asia, Cambodia has many peculiarities – not just kids of kindergarten age already trying to sell stuff and fried huge insects being sold as snacks on the markets. People try to pull a fast one on tourists at every corner.
When I first came to Cambodia in 2015, I had the feeling that the country and the locals were still exploring how to handle tourism. Many Cambodians live in poverty and smell money once they encounter tourists.
At the same time, the country is so rich in natural beauty and exceptional archaeological treasures. Besides, there are some islands with beaches as beautiful as in Thailand but with much fewer tourists.
And more and more locals have learned that the best way to do good business in tourism is by treating travelers well. So once you manage to avoid the scams, you see the true face of Cambodians – locals with wide smiles and heartwarming hospitality. And this is the side of Cambodia I want you to experience on your backpacking Cambodia itinerary. So let’s dig into the world of the lovely Khmer people.
Table of contents
Highlights on your backpacking Cambodia itinerary
Cambodia itineraries
Good to know for backpacking in Cambodia
Highlights on your Backpacking Cambodia itinerary
Siem Reap & Angkor Wat | Thousand-year-old temples
The small town of Siem Reap is the base to explore the world-famous temples of Angkor. But the archaeological site of Angkor Wat are not just only temples but supposedly the largest ancient city in the world.
When I arrived in Siem Reap I was surprised by how much was going on in this small town. Of course, it was full of tourists visiting Angkor Wat, hanging around in bars and cafés in the evenings, either looking forward to their trip the next day or exchanging stories and impressions in case they’ve already been there. There is a good vibe in Siem Reap, as there’s no overcrowded mass tourism but rather people meeting at one place because they are all fascinated by these historical monuments.
In the evenings there’s a market where everyone gathers for street food and you can also visit some smaller Buddhist temples in town. So make sure to not only see Siem Reap as the stepping stone to dive into Angkor Wat but also spend some time strolling around this little town.
Impressions of Siem Reap
To Do in Siem Reap: Visit the Angkor Wat Temple complex
Well, of course, you mainly come to Siem Reap in order to explore the world-famous temples of Angkor. The UNESCO World Heritage Site and a must-visit destination on any Cambodia itinerary.
Most people only know the main temple close to the entrance, which has the name Angkor Wat. But the whole archeological park is home to countless temple complexes, including Angkor Thom, the Bayon Temple, and Ta Prohm – the famous temples that are overgrown by trees, featuring in Tomb Raider and the Indiana Jones movie.
The Ta Prohm temples originate from the Khmer empire around the 12th or 13th century and were abandoned after the fall of this empire in the 17th century – and since then the trees have been growing. Seeing those massive trees growing out of the ruins for hundreds of years seems to mirror a battle between human-built monuments and nature – in some really impressive dimension.
Established in the late 12th century, Angkor Thom (‘great city’) was the last and most enduring capital of the Khmer empire. Angkor Thom alone covers an area of 9 square kilometers but composes just a small part of the whole temple area. So, can you imagine how huge the whole area is?
There are different kinds of tickets: A 1-day pass for $37 and a 3-day pass for $62 (prices in 2024).
To avoid long queues at the ticket booths, I highly recommend buying your Angkor Wat entry tickets online (it’s the same price).
Did you know that your entry ticket is already valid from 5 pm the day before your visit? I highly recommend making use of this and experiencing a unique sunset at Angkor Wat, and coming back the next morning before sunrise.
By bicycle from Siem Reap to Angkor Wat while I was backpacking in Cambodia
I decided to rent a bicycle in Siem Reap and drive the 7km to Angkor. It was exhausting in the heat and my bike was hilarious (it had no gears and was probably older than me), but the feeling when you slowly approach this impressive temple is unique. And when you finally get to see it, with its beautiful reflection in the water, is simply breathtaking. Eventually, when the sun sets and spreads its deep orange light onto the temple you begin to forget the world around you.
While I thought the sunset had been beautiful, the sunrise (and especially the time before the sun actually came up) was even more spectacular. But I had to get up at 4:30 to paddle all the way to Angkor Wat again, and it was already hot in the early morning hours.
Slowly driving around the temples had a unique feeling to it and I loved it. But it was really hot and I didn’t manage to see that many temples in one day. Besides, I missed getting more insights into the history and culture of the ancient Khmer empire. That’s why I’d take a guided tour next time. They’re not even expensive.
- This Small-Group Sunrise Tour is definitely worth it, as they bring you to the temples from Siem Reap in the early morning before the crowds arrive and I heard that the guides are so much fun.
- To dive deeper into the spectacular temple sites, check out this 2-Day Angkor Wat Temple Complex Guided Tour.
- If you prefer visiting with a private guide, there are private full-day tours with a guide and sunrise included.
Impressions of Angkor Wat
Remember that you’re in a Buddhist country and these temples are sacred to the local people. So, even though it’s hot, show respect by wearing light long pants (covering your knees) and a shirt that covers your shoulders.
Another wonderful activity with a focus on sustainable travel is a day trip to Tonle Sap Lake with Buffalo Trails, a tour company specializing in sustainably run day trips where you can dive into the local area and the lives of local families.
Stay in Siem Reap:
Hotels:
- Budget stay:
- Maison 557 – It feels like a little boutique hotel with a garden oasis and is just a few minutes walk from Siem Reap’s center. Plus, their staff are among the loveliest you’ll find in town.
- Premium stay:
- FCC Angkor by Avani – A wonderful eco-friendly resort that not only has adorable rooms but has eliminated most single-use plastics, minimized electricity use, and get fresh produce from local suppliers like family farms. Besides, they fund community projects such as the Angkor Hospital for Children.
Hostel:
- Onederz Hostel – A nice, modern hostel close to the city center and with a rooftop pool where all the backpackers hang out while not visiting the temple sites.
Budget hotel recommendation for Siem Reap: Maison 557
Located in a calm area away from the hustle and bustle of Pub Street but so close you can walk there within a few minutes, this hotel is a little oasis. With its pool and garden area, it’s the perfect place to relax after a day of exploring temples.
Kampot & Kep | Life is better with spicy food
What used to be Cambodia’s most important beach destination is nowadays more of a small, sleepy town where you can get a feeling for the local life on your backpacking Cambodia itinerary. The beaches are by far not as beautiful as in Koh Rong, but I’d still recommend visiting Kampot & Kep.
Both towns are known for their decaying pre-war French villas that are quite a distinct view.
You’ve probably heard of or even eaten Kampot pepper. Yep, this town is where the peppercorns grow that are sold worldwide. Kep is mostly known for its crab market and is thus loved by seafood lovers.
If you’ve got plenty of time you can visit both towns and spend a few nights in each. But they’re only 20 km apart, so you can easily combine both. If you combine both, I’d recommend staying in Kampot, the nicer town with more/better places to stay.
Colonial houses in Kampot, image taken by Chris from My Travelworld
To Do in Kampot & Kep
- La Plantation (Pepper plantation) – Kampot pepper is one of the best and most expensive pepper varieties. I can recommend visiting the organic farm “La Plantation” and “Farm Link” where you can see how local workers sort the peppercorns.
- Salt fields – It’s such a wonderful sight to see the sun reflect in the salt fields flooded by water, so it’s especially worth seeing the fields for sunrise.
- Rent a bicycle – Everything is close by, so instead of renting a scooter you can rent a bicycle to explore the salt fields and drive to La Plantation. The best way to experience the local life!
- Bokor National Park / Hill Station – Visit a collection of abandoned French colonial buildings in Bokor Hill Station (some call it Old Casino), built in the 1920s but became a ghost town.
- Have a drink by the river in Kampot – Enjoy a drink at Kampong Bay River (Teuk Chhou) while watching how the sun sets behind the nearby Bokor Mountains.
- Day trip to Koh Tonsay – If you feel like doing nothing but lying by the beach, this island is the place to go. It’s just a 30-minute boat ride.
Tour recommendations:
- This one-day tour through Kampot & Kep including Bokor National Park gives you the perfect overview of the area’s highlights including a tuk-tuk ride to Bokor National Park, temples, monuments, a salt farm coffee stop, La Plantation and Brateak Krola Lake.
- This half-day tour across Kampot’s countryside & La Plantation pepper farm leads you through an impressive cave, salt farm coffee stip, Bateak Krola Lake and a tour through La Plantation.
Stay in Kampot:
Hotels/Homestays:
- Budget stays:
- Cambodhi Vegan Guesthouse – I love love love that there’s a vegan hotel in Kampot. While I haven’t stayed here myself (yet), I heard that the food and the hosts at Cambodhi are amazing. The rooms are also lovely and there’s a wonderful rooftop terrace.
- Premium stay:
- Villa La Plantation – Here you can stay in a unique accommodation right at the pepper plantation in cool, modern cubes with a wonderful pool. Truly exceptional!
Hostel:
- Funky Moon Kampot – Do you like the idea of relaxing in a hammock by the river, renting a kayak and a family setting with modern, clean rooms? Then Funky Moon is the place to go. They have amazing double rooms with private bathrooms as well as dorm rooms. (check here on Booking or here on Hostelworld).
Guesthouse recommendation for Kampot: Cambodhi Vegan Guesthouse
Stay in a bright, comfortable room decorated with much love and dedication where you have a wonderful view across Kampot from your balcony. The vegan food is amazing and the roof terrace invites you to relax after a day of exploring the area. The owners pay great attention to sustainably, so the toiletries are organic and they have an “anti-plastic” policy. It’s only a ten minute walk from town but you can also rent a scooter. Oh and don’t miss to try the peanut butter smoothie!
Sihanoukville & Koh Rong Island | Beaches that will blog your mind
When thinking about Cambodia not many people have beaches or even paradisiacal islands on their mind. But yes, when you’re backpacking in Cambodia you can visit it’s extremely beautiful beaches as well. The water is crystal clear and the sand fine and white, just as in Thailand – but with much fewer people. The perfect break from exploring culture and the hustle & bustle of the capital.
Sihanoukville is a small town on the coast of Cambodia with a laid-back backpacker vibe, some nice bars, and many beaches on the doorstep. The city is the starting point to explore the country’s fantastic beaches and islands, such as Koh Rong, Koh Rong Sanloem, or Koh Ta Kiev.
You can spend a day in Sihanoukville, but the true highlight are the islands, such as Koh Rong.
Koh Rong is around 25km off the coast and the largest island of the Kampong Som Archipelago. There are speed boats (it was $5 back in 2015 but costs $25 now) that take you to Koh Rong in around half an hour. But the cheaper ferry also takes only one hour and is less bumpy & much more comfortable in my opinion. I’d always prefer the ferry on my Cambodia itinerary. You can book the ferry here for $13.
To Do in Koh Rong Island
- Beach, beach, beach – Here are the most amazing beaches in Koh Rong:
- Sok San Beach (Long Beach) – The longest beach on the island with perfect turquoise water. Great for watching the sunset.
- Long Set Beach (4 K Beach) – Located in a long, sandy bay in the south of Koh Rong this is pure paradise.
- Pagoda Beach – A wonderfully clean beach with some resorts (that take care of the litter)
- Coconut Beach – One of the most popular beaches with some restaurants and bungalows on the beach. Great for watching the sunrise.
- Rent a scooter – The best way to explore the island and drive to different beaches and highlights across the island
- Waterfalls – There are two waterfalls in Koh Rong: Prek Svay Waterfall in the north and Varisan Nureach Waterfall close to Sok San Village
- Luminescent plankton – Watch out for the glowing glitter in the water at night, this is such a spectacle to experience and can be spotted on many beaches in Koh Rong
- Go snorkeling – The water in Koh Rong is so clear that you can see quite far. So much fun!
- Mangrove Forest & Prek Tasok Ecotourism Community – Walk across the wooden boards along the mangroves reaching into the sea
- Rent a kayak – From Long Set Beach you can kayak to the small Pagoda Island, or you can also kayak through the mangrove forest
Watch out for the nasty sand flies that are quite common in Koh Rong. Often, you feel the bites one day later and they’re extremely itchy. So always use insect spray on the beach.
Yes, the beaches in Cambodia are that paradisiacal
Stay in Koh Rong:
Hotels:
- Budget stay: Naroth Beach Bungalow – a little dream for budget travelers. Located right on the beach you’re in the most beautiful spot. If you’re lucky you can spot glowing plankton right on this beach at night.
- Premium stay: The Secret Garden Koh Rong – Not only a beautiful small hotel with direct access to one of the most beautiful beaches on Koh Rong, but also amazing, very welcoming staff that will make your stay unforgettable.
Hostels:
- Mad Monkey Koh Rong – The place to stay in Koh Rong when backpacking in Cambodia. But be aware that this is more of a party hostel, so it may not be for everyone. However, the choice of hostels on Koh Rong is small and this is still the best option
- Onederz Koh Rong Sanloem – On the neighboring island Koh Rong Sanloem, this is the perfect hostel for a beach stay. You’re right on the beach, there’s a rooftop with a nice view and the facilities are nice and clean. They also have a partner hostel in Sihanoukville: Onederz Sihanoukville so you can easily plan your transport to the island from here.
Hotel recommendation for Koh Rong: Naroth Beach Bungalow
What you get here for your budget is amazing. In this beautiful quiet location, you have the beach to yourself. Enjoy the sea view from your bungalow and rent a scooter to explore the island.
In only 20–30 minutes you reach Naroth Beach Bungalow from Long Set Beach Pier. And if you’re lucky you can see glowing plankton right on the beach at night.
Phnom Penh | Bustling city & centuries-old history
A Cambodia backpacking itinerary wouldn’t be complete without visiting its capital. Although it’s a huge Asian city where lots of chaos, traffic, and litter are part of daily life, and where a horrible genocide has taken place, try to look beyond that.
It’s always important to visit a destination with an open mind. For many, Phnom Penh stands for the country’s dark past of the “Khmer Rouge Regime” that is responsible for a horrible genocide, killing around 2 million Cambodians in the 1970s.
To understand the tragic history of Cambodia and pay respect to the many Cambodians who have suffered or died under this regime is extremely important.
At the same time, I think it’s essential to also look into the beautiful sides of the city, like its wonderful temples showing the country’s centuries-old history and culture, and the lovely locals. By doing so, we give Phnom Penh, Cambodia, and the Khmer people the chance to not only be associated with a genocide. Because they’re so much more.
ToDo In Phnom Penh
- Royal Palace & Silver Pagoda – With their green park, the Royal Palace & Silver Pagoda are not only an awesome example of stunning Khmer architecture but also a large oasis in the busy city.
- Wat Phnom Daun Penh Temple – Set on top of a small hill, Wat Phnom is the temple that gave the city its name. Khmer legend has it that a lady named Penh found four Buddha statues on the banks of the Mekong River in the 14th century. So she built a pagoda on a hill (in Khmer language “phnom” means hill). Hence the city has been named Phnom Penh or “Hill of Penh”.
- Ta Phrom Temple – The temple features amazing architecture from the 12th century, similar to Angkor Wat. Together with the neighboring temple Yey Peo Temple & Tonle Bati Lake, this is a great day trip from Phnom Penh.
- Central Market – The markets over here are always a spectacle. But be aware, that they serve fried tarantulas and scorpions here.
- Wat Langka – A wonderful Pagoda from the 15th century which is kept in great condition and is free of charge to enter.
- Killing Fields (Choeung Ek Memorial) – Here you get to explore the dark past during the horrible Khmer Rouge who used many killing fields as execution and mass burial grounds during its rule of Cambodia in the 1970s. Book a guided tour with pickup for Killing Fields & The Genocide Museum right here.
- Genocide Museum – A High School turned into an interrogation, torture & execution center during the rule of the Khmer Rouge. Today it serves as a memorial and museum.
- Lotus Blanc Restaurant – A unique place to have lunch very worth supporting, as it’s managed by a charity that works with street children.
- Hidden Gems Walking Tour – Explore Phnom Penh with a local guide, from its highlights such as the central market and Wat Phnom to lesser-known spots worth exploring.
Impressions of Phnom Penh
Stay in Phnom Penh
Hotels
- Budget stay:
- La Chronique Hotel – A lovely oasis in the middle of busy Phnom Penh! Cozy rooms, extremely clean, and just a ten-minute tuk-tuk ride from many highlights in the city.
- Premium stay:
- iRoHa Garden Hotel & Resort – This hotel is where you get the most wonderful rooms in a serene escape, a gorgeous garden, and probably the best service in Phnom Penh.
Hostel
- Onederz Phnom Penh – This Cambodian hostel chain has by far the best hostels in the country, also in the capital. The rooftop pool is a huge plus in hot Phnom Penh!
Hotel recommendation in Phnom Penh: La Chronique Hotel
Enjoy Phnom Penh from the perfect location. Set in a great neighborhood this lovely stylish hotel has everything you need. The rooms are beautiful, the food is amazing and everything’s spotless. Plus, there’s an awesome cafe downstairs which is especially a highlight if you need to work remotely.
Cambodia backpacking itineraries
How many weeks do you need for your Cambodia backpacking itinerary?
While the country is small, it’s nice not to rush through but to get a deeper feeling for the Khmer culture and local traditions.
Also, it’s nice to take enough time to experience the breathtaking and vast temple complex of Angkor Wat.
And Cambodia offers a large variety, so I’d recommend spending some days on its paradisiacal islands and beaches as well.
All in all, I can recommend planning two weeks for your backpacking Cambodia itinerary. In three weeks you can spend more time in each destination and dive deeper into the culture.
Motorbikes are always an adventure in Cambodia
How to get to Cambodia?
The most common way to enter the country when you’re backpacking in Cambodia is by bus from Bangkok.
I took this bus trip in 2015 and I had been warned that the border crossing by land between Thailand and Cambodia is the worst around Southeast Asia. I heard about buses that drop you off at scam offices shortly before the border, ominous scams screwing tourists by foisting overpriced visas on people. And I have to confirm that this is exactly what I experienced.
Our crammed minibus ride was not only the bumpiest ride I ever experienced (no seat belts, of course) but also a crazy scam. We stopped at a sketchy office where those who didn’t have a visa yet had to pay double the price of the official visa I had bought before, and every traveler had to pay a “procession fee”. After the border, there was another bus with not enough seats for everyone, so some of the travelers had to wait another half-hour for another bus to arrive.
Eventually, we were dropped off somewhere outside of Siem Reap and once more they wanted to sell us overpriced tuk-tuk rides. And when some of us decided to walk the rest into town the guys from the bus company started insulting us.
This experience was back in 2015 but I can imagine that they still operate those scam offices. So if you take this trip, I recommend one major thing: Get your visa in advance in your previous country.
The border crossing between Vietnam (HCMC) and Cambodia (Phnom Penh) is much more relaxed.
Since 2023 you can also get a ferry from the neighboring Thai islands (such as Koh Chang, Koh Mak, or Koh Kood) to Koh Rong and start your backpacking Cambodia itinerary on this paradisiacal island.
If you’re arriving from outside Southeast Asia you will most probably arrive by plane in Phnom Penh and start your Cambodia backpacking itinerary here.
How to get around Cambodia?
It’s easy and cheap to get from one place to the next by bus in Cambodia. I liked the night buses in Cambodia, which were quite comfortable. You’re able to lie down on something like a mix of a leather seat and a gymnastics mat, or you could compare it to a massage table at the doctor’s. This is a space of, I’d guess 1m × 1,70m which you have to share with a travel buddy or some random stranger.
But be aware that even when you buy a direct bus it may turn out to have a stop where you have to change buses. That’s exactly what happened on my “direct bus” from Siem Reap to Sihanoukville with an unexpected stop in Phnom Penh.
But hey, lucky you – that means you can enjoy another bus ride with gooey Cambodian music videos. You have to stay flexible when backpacking in Cambodia and take it with a grain of salt.
Motorbikes are always an adventure in Cambodia
Suggested backpacking Cambodia itineraries
2 weeks backpacking Cambodia itinerary
Now that you’ve read about the highlights of your Cambodia backpacking adventure, let’s look at how you can plan your Cambodia itinerary.
You can start either in Siem Reap (especially when you come from Bangkok) or in Phnom Penh (especially when you arrive by plane or when you come from Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam). To reach Sihanoukville and the islands, you often have to drive through or change buses in Phnom Penh. So you can decide if you’d like to see the capital before or after some days by the beach.
Here’s my suggested Cambodia itinerary for 2 weeks (coming from Thailand & moving on to Vietnam, as I did on my Southeast Asia trip):
- Siem Reap | 3 days (perfect start if you’re coming from Bangkok, Thailand)→ night bus to Sihanoukville (to get to Koh Rong)
- Sihanoukville | 1 day→ boat to Koh Rong
- Koh Rong | 3 days→ boat back to Sihanoukville + bus or train to Kampot
- Kampot & Kep | 2-3 days→ bus to Phnom Penh
- Phnom Penh | 2-3 days→ on to Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam
3 weeks backpacking Cambodia itinerary
With three weeks in Cambodia, you can spend more days relaxing by the beach or extend your Cambodia itinerary simply by spending more time in each of the destinations.
Map of backpacking Cambodia itinerary
Map of Cambodia backpacking itinerary (click for interactive view)
Good to know | Backpacking Cambodia itinerary
Sustainable travel in Cambodia
When you’re backpacking in Cambodia you soon realize that the respect for the environment is low. Plastic waste and rubbish bags are simply thrown out on the side of the street and rusty vehicles pollute the air to the extent that a thick haze concentrates over cities.
Actually, Cambodia is considered one of the most vulnerable countries in Asia by environmental experts, as its primary rainforest which used to cover 70% of the country in the 1970s has decreased radically to 3% by 2007 due to logging (both legal and illegal).
As a result, three-quarters of Cambodia’s wildlife areas have disappeared. To make things worse, wildlife is suffering extremely from poaching and trafficking.
Kids playing in the dirt in Siem Reap
At the same time, tourism is evolving rapidly and there has been no focus on sustainable practices. You can feel that especially around Sihanoukville and the islands where more and more hotels are built. The worst is that there are almost no building regulations. And eventually, hotels keep rooms air-conditioned and pay no attention to energy saving.
But with the growing tourism and its impacts, some progress in sustainable tourism is visible. And sustainable tourism is so much more than environmental protection.
As much of Cambodia’s ancient history was lost due to the plundering and trafficking of Khmer artifacts, the organization Heritage Foundation has been formed. They work to preserve Khmer antiquities and culture and created a “Heritage Friendly” logo for Cambodian products that meet certain standards to help protect the country’s heritage.
Besides, there are some tour companies with a strong focus on responsible tourism, such as
- Asia Adventures, a tour company that offers tours all over Cambodia under their guiding ethos of responsible tourism.
- Pepy Tours that offer adventure and cultural tours, which help fund the aid work of a wider NGO and environmental education project (PEPY = “Protect the Earth, Protect Yourself”).
Also, some hotels have started to adapt to the eco-friendly trend. The first eco-hotels and retreats have been opened.
Yet, there is only little and slow progress and it feels more like an attempt to preserve what is left. The country has to make a shift before mass tourism destroys its unique natural wonders and more of its cultural heritage.
That’s why it’s so important for us as travelers to contribute to this shift by creating a growing demand for sustainable tourism practices. So let’s support these businesses to protect the country’s vulnerable ecosystems, wildlife and cultural heritage. That’s the only way future generations – both locals and travelers – can still enjoy the beauty of Cambodia as we do today.
What can I do as a traveler?
While many people and companies may knowingly and unknowingly harm the culture and environment in Cambodia, there are many choices with which you can make a small or larger difference.
It’s important to prevent being part of the problem and to raise awareness in order to be part of the solution instead.
I’ve written a comprehensive guide full of tips on how to travel more sustainably. Often, small things can change a lot. Check this out, if you’re interested in learning more about it.
But to give you the most relevant tips for your trip to Cambodia, here’s an overview of what you should consider to reduce the negative impacts when backpacking in Cambodia:
- Dispose of your waste – Never join in when you witness such thoughtless behavior like throwing waste on the street. Always dispose of your own waste in a proper waste bin. And to minimize your waste say no to plastic bags (instead bring a tote bag) and at street food stalls bring your own reusable cutlery.
- Never buy any wildlife/animal products – With poaching and illegal hunting of rare species being a huge danger to Cambodia’s radically disappearing wildlife, keep in mind not to buy any animal products on markets.
- Look out for the “Heritage Friendly” logo – When you buy antiquities and cultural products with this logo, you can make sure that don’t stem from looting and trafficking.
- Bring your own eco-friendly products: Especially in a country like Cambodia located by the sea, make sure to use reef-safe sunscreen without chemicals that harm the ocean, a shampoo bar that saves plastic and a bamboo toothbrush.
- Bring your own water bottle: I never travel without my self-purifying water bottle with which I can filter water anywhere I go and make it drinkable.
Littered streets in Phnom Penh
- Stay with locals – Prefer guesthouses, small B&Bs or homestays on your Cambodia itinerary. There are many lovely local homestays where you can truly experience local culture and life.
- Support local businesses – Eat and shop in small locally owned restaurants and shops instead of supporting international chains.
- Avoid any activities that involve animal cruelty – such as elephant riding or weasel coffee (neither buy or drink it, nor visit these coffee plantations)
- Hire local tour guides & book responsible tours – Such as Pepy Tours or Asia Adventures.
- Be aware of orphanages when volunteering – While the idea of helping children in a poor country shows that your heart is in the right place. But this has become a scam business with many fake orphanages run by criminals taking advantage of the kids. Also, don’t give money to begging children. This only supports the problem that parents send their kids to collect money instead of going to school. Rather volunteer with NGOs that support community projects and promote children going to school.
Poverty is a serious issue in Cambodia, so it’s important to support locals
- Save energy & water – In your accommodation, don’t ask for fresh towels & cleaning daily, don’t use electricity wastefully (e.g. use a fan instead of aircon), and take short showers. There’s a major water issue in Cambodia with 1/4 of the population lacking access to water. So it’s even more important that we as travelers consume water responsibly.
- Eat responsibly – Besides eating in local restaurants where ingredients are usually from the regions, try to eat less meat or even plant-based. This can radically improve your ecological footprint, as meat consumption is one of the most severe causes of climate change. When eating with locals, always eat with your right hand.
- Use public transport & avoid flying within the country – There’s a great bus network in Cambodia and the train network is getting better as well. And most distances aren’t even that far in the small country, so there’s no need to fly.
- Be respectful & mindful of local customs – Especially when you stay in a homestay (which is an awesome experience!), remove your shoes before entering a home. And be respectful to ethnic minorities, especially when taking pictures. Always ask before and respect, if they don’t want pictures taken. Besides, never touch someone’s head or point your feet towards religious relics, as this shows great disrespect.
Besides, packing light and traveling more slowly makes your Cambodia itinerary more sustainable as well.
Be respectful with local traditions when backpacking in Cambodia
Treating locals and their traditions respectfully is an important part of sustainable traveling
Weather & travel season
When is the best time to go backpacking in Cambodia?
The best time to visit Cambodia, and especially to spend time by the beach in Koh Rong is between November and April with the least rain (but it’s also the high season with most tourists coming to Koh Rong).
But even during the rainy season it rarely rains the whole day. So you can also have an amazing time in Cambodia. Just stay flexible with your travel plans.
Usually, it gets very busy, and may get harder to get a bus or train ticket around the holidays (around our New Year but also around the Khmer New Year in mid-April, which is an important holiday in Cambodia marking the end of the harvest season). During these times many hotels also are more expensive.
A local hairdresser on the streets of Phnom Penh
Visa & safety
Organizing your visa for Cambodia
Check the requirements for entering Cambodia with your Foreign Office. Requirements can change any time.
Travelers of most nationalities need a visa in order to enter Cambodia. I had organized my visa for Cambodia at an agency in Bangkok before I entered the bus trip from Thailand to Cambodia and I highly recommend that. Organize your visa beforehand, not at the border. Chances are, the bus company tries to rip you off. That’s exactly what happened to many travelers who were on the same bus as me.
The dubious bus company made us leave the minibus shortly before the border at a scamp office where they sold visas for double the price you’d pay at the border. Most of those who hadn’t organized their visas beforehand had no idea about the actual costs, so they paid them without complaining. Just some were aware of being screwed, hence complained but eventually paid anyway as they did not see another chance of getting their visas (as it turned out, they could have simply walked to the border and paid the usual 20$ but we didn’t even know how close to the border we were).
Is backpacking in Cambodia safe?
Well, Cambodia has become quite a popular backpacking country and many include it on their Southeast Asia itinerary. There are plenty of hostels in the hotspots like Siem Reap or Phnom Penh, so it’s easy to get to know fellow backpackers.
I first visited Cambodia as a young solo backpacker in 2015 and felt quite safe. Maybe too safe. I almost got robbed by a guy on the backseat of a bypassing motorbike in Sihanoukville, but luckily I grabbed my bag fast. And then my backpack got ripped while I was on the night bus from Sihanoukville to Phnom Penh (while my backpack was in the luggage store room of the bus) and some stuff got stolen. It was nothing very valuable, just an old spare phone I had with me for emergencies and a small spare wallet. Of course, I always carry my valuables with me while traveling from one place to the next, which leaves all the stuff in my backpack pretty much useless for anyone else.
I have to be honest – I’ve traveled to over 50 countries by now and I have never had similar experiences. Overall, Cambodia was a tough experience for me, as I also got food poisoning there. But these are just my very personal experiences and I’ve met many travelers who only had good experiences in the country (but had some troubles in other countries where I felt completely safe).
I’d say you should be aware like in any other country take the usual precautions as you do anywhere you travel:
- Leave your valuables (such as your passport, credit cards and larger sums of cash) safely locked in your hostel or hotel while you’re out exploring. And when you’re traveling from one place to the next, keep them safely with you in a hip bag.
- Don’t walk alone or travel at night and always check with your accommodation if there are any areas you should avoid.
- I also always store my money and credit cards in different places in my luggage. Just in case you may get mugged, you still have some money source somewhere else.
- Avoid wearing jewelry, especially gold necklaces (even if they’re not very valuable you probably don’t want it ripped from your neck by a motorbike driver).
A monkey in Angkor Wat on my Cambodia itinerary
Everyday life in Cambodia
Language & currency
Language basics
Most of the population in Cambodia speaks the Khmer language which is the official language. Due to immigration from neighboring countries, you may also hear some Vietnamese, Lao, or Thai.
I always consider it important to learn at least how to greet and thank locals in the local language.
In Cambodia, however, it’s equally important to know the body language.
Cambodians traditionally greet each other by holding their palms together, like a prayer. While lifting up their hands to the chest, they bow slightly – this is called Som Pas (sometimes also called Sampeah). It’s impolite not to return a Som Pas.
By greeting this way, you show respect for the local traditions and you will get lots of smiles in return.
Besides, try to remember these basics in the Khmer language:
- “Hello” – say “Choum Reap Sur” & do a Som Pas
- “Thank you” – say “Au Kun” & usually also do a Som Pas
Currency in Cambodia
The official currency is the Cambodian Riel (Khmer Riel = KHR), but there’s a dual currency system which is quite confusing, especially in the beginning.
Even though the Cambodian Riel is said to be the official currency, the price tags are in US Dollars everywhere. However, when you pay in Dollars and get some small cash back, you get everything higher than 1$ in US $ and the rest in Riel (The first time I looked at the money in my hand and just thought “seriously?!”).
So it’s a challenge to calculate prices and exchange rates here.
1 USD = approx. 4.000 Riel
So if something costs $2.50 and you pay with a $5 note, you’ll get back two dollars and 2.000 Riel (= 50 Cent). It will take a few days to understand the system. At least there are no coins anymore, neither in Riel nor in USD.
How expensive is backpacking in Cambodia?
What you definitely notice is that this country is poorer than Thailand. This can be seen in the primitive infrastructure, houses and vehicles. As a traveler, you notice more scams, begging children, and even more penetrant sales staff on market stalls. It seems like Cambodia is still exploring how to deal with tourism, and I got the feeling that they have to learn that this does not mean ripping off travelers but welcoming them more friendly.
But backpacking in Cambodia is really cheap. For example, you can get a dorm bed in a great hostel with a pool for around $5-7, get a meal in a restaurant for around $2-3, and street food can be even cheaper.
You may find overpriced food in the touristy area around Angkor Wat (I was quite surprised that they wanted to charge $7 for an Amok curry when I was looking for a place to have lunch. But I was able to beat down the price, so it’s worth trying to haggle).
A market while backpacking in Cambodia
Typical Cambodian Food
While you can find some similarities to Thai food and for sure some Lao influences as well, Cambodian food has its own authenticity.
You can find curries, noodle dishes, and soups in many Asian countries.
But you may also encounter grilled tarantulas and scorpions on markets. I’m not sure though, if they’re more for the curious tourists or if the locals actually eat them.
Anyway, here are some typical Cambodian dishes that I tried and really liked:
- (Fish) Amok – The most popular Cambodian dish is a creamy coconut curry, usually with potatoes and fish, and often served in a coconut bowl. But you can also find vegetarian Amok. I ate it almost every day, to be honest.
- Sailor korkor – The soup is the actual national dish when you ask locals
- Bok L’hong – A savory salad made with unripe, green papaya
- Nom banh chok – Khmer noodles
- Kuy teav – Noodle soup (usually made from beef broth), a typical breakfast
Cambodian Amok curry & fried tarantulas – some of the country’s delicacies
Food in Cambodia: Amok curry | fried tarantulas & snakes | Street food stall
Customs & religion
Here’s one more thing I really want to share with you. Treat the Khmer people with respect and adapt to local traditions, such as:
- Make a Som Pas while greeting and thanking locals.
- Never touch someone’s head, as this is an extreme insult. Cambodians consider the head as highest part of the body and the focal point of intelligence and spirituality.
- Don’t point your feet against someone, especially not against a Buddha in a temple, as this shows disrespect. They’re considered the lowest part of the body and unclean.
- When visiting temples: Take off your shoes, cover your shoulders and knees (so always bring a shawl or something to cover up), don’t touch or point your feet against a Buddha statue. Keep in mind that those are not sites made for tourists but sacred places to the religious locals.
- When entering a home: Take off your shoes and any hat or cap.
After my crazy bus ride from Thailand to Cambodia you can probably imagine that my first impression of the Cambodians wasn’t the best. But I was glad that these impressions were replaced by some nice encounters soon. Most Cambodians are actually super kind and welcoming. You just have to stay away from the wrong ones.
Backpacking Cambodia itinerary – a wrap-up
Cambodia in three words: Angkor Wat | Amok | Som Pas
Did you know? The Cambodian flag is the only flag worldwide that features a building. You can probably guess which one.
Favorite photo spot: The classic Angkor Wat shortly before sunrise – it’s magical
Favorite food: Cambodian Amok curry
Can’t miss: Enjoy the paradise of Koh Rong
Are you excited about your Cambodia backpacking adventure? Is there something missing in this Cambodia itinerary that you recommend? Let me know and leave a comment below.
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