Picture yourself backpacking in Vietnam. You’re sitting in a bus, driving along ricefields where you catch a quick glimpse of the workers’ smiles under their straw hats. In the city, you’re welcomed by the scent of hot, steaming buns. Fresh Vietnamese spring rolls. Bahn Mi stalls everywhere you look. You realize that you’re in a street food paradise. But a Vietnam backpacking itinerary has so much more to offer – incredible floating markets, canyoning waterfalls, and the lushest landscapes. So get ready and dive in.
Whether you’re backpacking in Vietnam or prefer a more comfortable way of travel, one thing is for sure: this country will leave you in awe.
I came to Vietnam as a part of my Southeast Asian backpacking journey, even though it wasn’t part of my original itinerary. However, I met numerous travelers on my trip who had visited Vietnam and were stunned by the variety of the country’s landscapes as well as the climate. Soon I was drawn to the idea of continuing my backpacking itinerary in Vietnam. And I didn’t regret it a single second.

And after three weeks in Vietnam, I was amazed that in this country I could drive by boat through a vast floating market, munch delicious street food any time of the day (or night), slide down sand dunes, go canyoning in waterfalls, marvel at lush rice paddies and colorful lanterns, cruise around mystical limestone formations, head on many scooter adventures and meet awesome travel buddies. So I can confirm that Vietnam is an amazingly versatile backpackers’ paradise.
In this guide, I share my Vietnam itinerary and recommendations for backpacking in Vietnam.

Vietnam backpacking itinerary HoiAn

Southern & Central Vietnam | Highlights on your Backpacking Vietnam itinerary

Ho Chi Minh City | Nine million motorbikes

When your Vietnam itinerary takes you from the hot south up to the cool north (that’s at least how it was for me when I visited in January), your first destination is likely Ho Chi Minh City (Vietnamese: Thành phố Hồ Chí Minh).

Even though this city was renamed Ho Chi Minh City in 1976 (after the nationalistic revolutionary), many people still call it Saigon (Vietnamese: Sài Gòn). Especially locals in southern Vietnam like to stick to the old name Saigon out of habit. It does sound much nicer, don’t you think?
The airport is still named SGN as an abbreviation for Saigon.

It’s Vietnam’s largest city, being home not only to around ten million inhabitants but simultaneously to nine million motorbikes. When you arrive in HCMC, you almost get overrun by the nine million motorbikes. I’m not kidding, traffic here is the craziest I’ve ever seen.

Motorbikes in Ho Chi Minh City on my Vietnam itinerary / Rollerverkehr in HCMC beim Backpacking in Vietnam

Traffic is a challenge on any Vietnam itinerary / Der Verkehr beim Backpacking in Vietnam ist verrückt

Market in HCMC on my backpacking Vietnam itinerary / EIn Markt in HCMC auf meiner Vietnam backpacking Route

Impressions of HCMC | Crazy motorbike traffic & markets

ToDo in HCMC:

  • Free Walking Tour – It’s the best way to get a feeling for this lively city. With this Saigon Local Sightseeing Free Walking Tour with Nana you can experience HCMC through the eyes of a local, learn about the culture and see some of the city’s highlights.
  • Bui Vien Street – The area around this street is the backpacker hot spot with many hostels, amazing street food stalls, bars, and massage studios. Come here for great, authentic Vietnamese street food, or a drink in a bar.
  • District 1 – The historic center is still called Saigon and is home to many buildings from French colonial times, such as the imposing town hall (Hôtel de Ville), the Opera House, and the Central Post Office. There’s also a Vietnamese version of Notre Dame Cathedral.
  • Cholon (Chinatown) – Enjoy this bustling neighborhood, visit one of its beautiful temples, such as the Thien Hau Temple and grab some yummy street food. “Cholon” means “big market” and that pretty much sums up the vibe of the area.
  • Binh Thai market – As in every city in Southeast Asia, visiting a market is a must. Binh Thai market is one where mainly locals shop. As usual, they sell everything over here: household goods, clothes, food. The fruits and vegetables, however, are mainly stored in bowls on the muddy street, with motorbikes rushing through directly next to them.
  • War Remnants Museum – A more important part you cannot miss when you explore a foreign country is encountering its history which, in Vietnam’s case, sadly is dominated by a horrible war. The War Remnants Museum documents the horrible atrocities of the war, including brutal photographs of its victims (the tortured ones, as well as those born with horrible birth defects caused by chemical weapons). Intense narrations and brutal thought-provoking pictures that make you leave that place in pondering silence.

Stay in HCMC:

Hotels:
  • Budget stay:
  • Premium stay:
    • At Silverland Bến Thành you are not only in the best location in District 1, but all the large rooms are very thoughtfully decorated and the whole hotel has a unique design.

Hostel:

  • The Lovenote Home does not only have the most beautiful name but also amazing dorm rooms and is decorated with so much passion.

Homestay recommendation for HCMC: Leiden Homestay&Cafe

Located in a calm side alley close to many highlights in HCMC, this little hotel is a real highlight itself. The hosts are very welcoming and the interior is so beautiful and modern, yet cozy. What a lovely oasis!
Leiden Homestay&Cafe HCMC
Leiden Homestay&Cafe HCMC
What about the Cu Chi tunnels?
I also took a day trip to the famous Cu Chi tunnels, where you can visit parts of the Vietnamese tunnel network they had built in the 1960s to defend their country during the Vietnam War.
However, this was a very weird experience and I can’t recommend it. In a place that should serve as a memorial for a dark period in history and where thousands have lost their lives, the guides made inappropriate jokes about the traps. Besides, I was shocked to see (and hear very loudly) a shooting range where inconsiderate tourists could try shooting with guns.
In my opinion, a more respectful way to learn about the history of the Vietnam War is by visiting the War Remnants Museum.

War museum HCMC

Impressions of the War Remnants Museum HCMC

Can Tho & the Mekong Delta | By boat through a Floating Market

The Mekong Delta is one of a kind. A natural paradise where you can dive into a completely different life – life on the water. It’s a slow life where locals chug along the canals in their boats, go fishing, sell fruits and homecooked meals from their boats, and sleep in rural villages along the riverside. On the fertile soil, they can grow all kinds of fruit, vegetables, and rice. Most locals live from agriculture or fishing.

The Mekong River is literally the center of their lives. They use the water to grow food, and to move around, but also for cooking, and even for bathing. And well, the wastewater ends up in the river as well.

ToDo in the Mekong Delta: Floating Market

The main reason I came to the Mekong Delta, was to experience a floating market. There are several ones in the area. As usual, there are organized tours to the floating market.
On my backpacking Vietnam itinerary, I decided to organize a small trip by myself, taking a five-hour local bus to Can Tho (Vietnamese: Cần Thơ), the biggest city in the Mekong Delta.
As the floating market starts very early – around 5 in the morning and locals recommend being there before 9 a.m. – I stayed in Can Tho (but you can also spend some days in one of the lovely local villages).

Getting up at 5:30 a.m. the next day was so worth it. Together with another solo traveler, I took a small boat on the bank of the Mekong River in Can Tho which took us around half an hour to reach the floating market. Our boat driver – an elderly, always smiling Vietnamese lady – even gave us some fresh mango and something like pomelo and made us some wristbands out of bamboo during the boat ride. When we eventually approached the market, a spectacle incomparable to anything I had ever seen, awaited us.

Hundreds of boats, from tiny small ones to big houseboats, gathered on the river, selling and exchanging goods. When you’re interested in buying, say a pineapple, you just have to watch out for a boat with a pineapple on its rod. That’s how you can identify what each boat sells. You shout over to them, then the two boats get anchored to each other and the bargaining begins. There are mainly boats selling various sorts of fruits and vegetables, but also cooked food, such as one lady with a huge pot on her small boat where she cooked the noodle soup she sold.
The Mekong River and the rising sun in the early morning hours add a stunningly beautiful atmosphere to the whole picture of a bustling Asian market.

Besides the floating market, you can stay a few days, enjoy the small local villages, and rent bicycles to cruise around.

Impressions of the floating market in Can Tho, a highlight on my backpacking Vietnam itinerary / Eindrücke vom Floating Market im Mekong-Delta, einem Highlight jeder Vietnam Backpacking Route

Impressions of the floating market inthe Mekong Delta, a highlight on my Vietnam itinerary / Eindrücke vom Floating Market in Can Tho, einem Highlight unter den Vietnam Reisetipps

Impressions of the Mekong Delta, a highlight when backpacking in Vietnam / Eindrücke vom Mekong-Delta, einem Highlight beim Backpacking in Vietnam

Impressions of the floating market & the Mekong Delta

Stay in the Mekong Delta:

Hotels/Homestays:

Hostel:

  • Can Tho Riverside Hostel is the only hostel in the area but it’s amazing. The family who runs it is super lovely & accommodating and the atmosphere is relaxed.

Homestay recommendation for the Mekong Delta: Mekong Rustic Homestay in Cai Be

Stay in bungalows built from recycled wood in a community setting where you will have an unforgettable experience. The hosts cook with fresh, local ingredients from the Mekong Delta and they even organize community-based tours so you can visit local craftsmen and families to learn more about life at the river.
Mekong Rustic Homestay Cai Be
Mekong Rustic Homestay Cai Be

Mui Ne | Scaling up sand dunes

For some calmer days by the beach, you should check out Mui Ne (Vietnamese: Mũi Né), a small town between Ho Chi Minh City & Dalat.

Mui Ne is best known as a perfect place for kite surfers due to its high waves and rough wind. So the sea is completely different from most of the beaches in Thailand or Malaysia. But, well there is a beach, the sun, and enough spots to relax. And there are some crazy beautiful sand dunes, something I hadn’t expected to find on my Vietnam itinerary.

ToDo in Mui Ne

  • Tour to the sand dunes – There are white and red dunes. The so-called “white sand dunes” are surprisingly large and located next to a big lake, making the drive there pretty scenic. After a short trek up the dunes, the view is amazing, especially when you go in the late afternoon and the deep sun lightens up the sand in warm colors. Check out this tour combining the sand dunes with a stop at the fishing village.
  • Fishing village – I’ve never seen this many fishing boats in one place before, all anchored in this one bay. The cutest are all those small, round plastic boats they use in order to get to their bigger boats.
  • Kite-surfing – If you’re a kite surfer or have thought about taking a kite-surfing course, this is the place to do it. The waves here are amazing, and it’s much cheaper than in many other countries.

Sand dunes of Mui Ne, a highlight when backpacking in Vietnam / Dünen von Mui Ne, ein Highlight beim Vietnam Backpacking

Kite surfers in Mui Ne, a highlight of my Vietnam itinerary / Fischerdorf bei Mui Ne, ein Highlight auf meiner Vietnam Backpacking Route

Fishing village close to Mui Ne, a highlight of my backpacking Vietnam itinerary / Fischerdorf bei Mui Ne, ein Highlight auf meiner Vietnam Reiseroute

Impressions of Mui Ne: Beach | Sand dunes | Fishing village

Stay in Mui Ne:

Hotels:
  • Budget stay: The lovely MiNhon Hotel Mui Ne is a little dream for budget travelers. The whole hotel is decorated and run with much love and the pool area is amazing as well.
  • Premium stay: Anantara Mui Ne Resort is not only a beautiful resort but also committed to sustainable measurements such as water and energy conservation, recycling and they support local communities.

Hostel:

  • The choice of hostels in Mui Ne is small but at Eva Hut you’re in a cute, calm paradise right by the beach. If you’re more in a party mood check out iHome Backpacker Resort.

Hotel recommendation for Mui Ne: MiNhon Hotel Mui Ne

What you get here for your budget is amazing. Everything is kept neat and tidy and there is a wonderful pool. You’ve got everything you need for a relaxing time in Mui Ne.
MiNhon Hotel Mui Ne
MiNhon Hotel Mui Ne

Dalat | Canyoning waterfalls and riding around by motorbike

On the early morning bus ride to Dalat (Vietnamese: Đà Lạt), I was able to spot some of Vietnam’s beautiful landscapes, passing by rice fields and aloe vera plantations, and eventually through the mountains, where the sun mildly touched the leaves of the lush, green trees.
As Dalat lies at 1500m altitude, temperatures are a bit cooler up here.

Nature is marvelous up here. You’re surrounded by forests, waterfalls, rice paddies, small villages, and remote temples that you can explore by scooter.
The atmosphere in Dalat is cozy, everyone is extremely welcoming and many guest houses and hostels offer traditional family dinners. That’s what I loved most about this area – through many heartwarming conversations with our host and the daily dinners sitting together on straw mats on the floor, I got a feeling for how Vietnamese families live.
And since Dalat is known for its many waterfalls around the area, a highlight one shouldn’t miss on your Vietnam itinerary is canyoning in Dalat.

ToDo in Dalat

  • Canyoning waterfalls – This waterfall canyoning tour was one of the highlights of my backpacking Vietnam itinerary. Your guides take you to a beautiful area where a river runs down the mountains through the forest, shaping numerous waterfalls and pools. After a briefing about the basic abseiling techniques and how to secure yourself with the rope and a short trek, the real adventure starts. You can rappel down several cliffs and waterfalls, jump into the river, slide down waterfalls, and enjoy the Vietnamese forest landscape in a fun group setting.
  • Renting a scooter – The best way to further explore the beautiful landscape around Dalat, is by renting a scooter. There are organized tours but I recommend cruising around on your own so you can choose where to go, such as waterfalls, temples, rice fields, and flower farms.
  • Happy Buddha Temple – With your scooter, take a stop at this huge, super happy Buddha which makes you smile as well when looking at it.
  • K’Ho Coffee Farm – A local coffee farm close to Dalat with organic farming/agroforestry practices and eco-friendly coffee processing methods you can visit for a tour and tasting.

Waterfall Canyoning in Dalat, a highlight on my Vietnam itinerary / Canyoning im Wasserfall in Dalat, ein Highlight meiner Vietnam Reiseroute

Canyoning in Dalat, a highlight when backpacking in Vietnam / Canyoning in Dalat, ein Highlight beim Vietnam Backpacking

Canyoning in Dalat, a highlight on my backpacking Vietnam itinerary / Canyoning in Dalat, ein Highlight jeder Backpacking Vietnam Route

Impressions of Canyoning waterfalls in Dalat

Anti-Tip: Why you should not visit a “weasel coffee farm”

This point is not a tip but rather a warning of an activity you should not support if your heart is in the right place.
Many Vietnam travel guides list visiting a weasel coffee farm among the unique things to do on a Vietnam itinerary. However, these places are pure cruelty and hell for the animals that are kept here. The weasels, and sometimes cats, are kept in tiny cages where they lie on metal bars, can barely turn around, and have no activity or interaction with other animals. It’s said to be a specialty drinking coffee that is made from beans that those weasels/cats ate and excrete. No one really looks after the animals, so they’re treated like a product or machine in the production chain.

When you visit such a coffee farm or plantation, you directly support this animal cruelty which is impossible to do with sanity and reason. The animals are in horrible condition so I ask you not to support this.
Sadly, a stop at a weasel coffee plantation is also part of the “Easy Riders” scooter tour (among other stops like a silkworm farm and a cricket farm which I wouldn’t recommend either). So I recommend renting a scooter to explore the beautiful landscape around Dalat by yourself instead of joining an organized tour where you support animal cruelty.

By scooter around Dalat, a highlight when backpacking in Vietnam / Rollerfahren rund um Dalat, ein Highlight beim Vietnam Backpacking

Happy Buddha Temple Dalat, a highlight on my Vietnam itinerary / Happy Buddha Tempel bei Dalat, ein Highlight meiner Vietnam Reiseroute

Family Dinner in Dalat, a highlight on my Vietnam itinerary / Family Dinner in Dalat, ein Highlight meiner Vietnam Reiseroute

By scooter around Dalat & Family Dinner on the floor

Stay in Dalat

Hotels/Apartments
  • Budget stay:
    • Midori Coffee Farm – Here you can stay in harmony with nature at a coffee farm with a spectacular view, lovely cats and dogs and homemade, organic food (vegetarian is no problem)
  • Premium stay:
    • California Hotel – What a gem, even with a vegan breakfast option and a sauna. You’ll love that in the fresh evenings in Dalat.
Hostels
  • Tiny Tigers Hostel – When I arrived at Tiny Tigers while I was backpacking in Vietnam, I was so warmly welcomed at the family-run hostel by a homelike atmosphere. The most amazing offer that I experienced at a hostel so far, was the family dinner that took place every night. Everyone who wanted to could join, sitting together on just some cushions on the floor around numerous freshly prepared original Vietnamese dishes (vegetables, rice, noodles, soups etc – everything your heart desires) and get to know all the different people staying at the hostel. There’s a table by now, but the amazing experience is the same. For me it was for sure one of the highlights of my Vietnam itinerary.

Hotel recommendation in Dalat: Midori Coffee Farm

Enjoy the amazing scenery at this coffee farm and have an unforgettable experience right in nature. You can see all the way across the farm and the valley while brushing your teeth outside. It’s a great community feeling here, with cats and dogs running around and with homemade food that can be ordered vegetarian as well. What a retreat!
Midori Coffee Farm Dalat
Midori Coffee Farm Dalat

Hoi An & Hue | Shining lanterns & ancient temples

Even though the lovely little town of Hoi An has become quite touristy, I’d still recommend including it in your Vietnam itinerary.
It’s full of yellow colonial houses, small restaurants, and busy alleys. A small river crosses the town and is framed by colorful lanterns. Especially at night, Hoi An is beautifully lit with all the lanterns around the Tru Bon River. And every full moon, all the electricity even gets shut off and the city lights up in bright, warm colors from the lanterns. When I was backpacking in Vietnam, an elderly lady invited us to light a candle in a small paper boat and place it on the river. This is an old Vietnamese tradition to make a wish. However, I probably wouldn’t do this anymore today, especially when you see the amount of trash caused by so many tourists in Hoi An.
Besides, Hoi An is famous for its many small boutiques where you can get tailored clothes and custom-made shoes for budget prices.

Hoi An, a highlight of any Vietnam itinerary / Hoi an, ein Highlight beim Backpacking in Vietnam

Lanterns of Hoi An on my backpacking Vietnam itinerary / Lampions von Hoi An, bei meiner Backpacking Vietnam Route

Market in Hoi An while backpacking in Vietnam / Markt in Hoi An, beim Backpacking in Vietnam

Impressions of Hoi An

ToDo

  • Rent a bike – During my Vietnam backpacking trip, I rented a bicycle with some other travelers and we went cruising around Hoi An, stopping at cute shops, cafes, and bars. I loved this way of exploring the town.
  • Have a drink next to the river – Enjoy the view of the colorfully lit river while sipping a cocktail in a bar at the riverside.
  • Day trip to Hue – The small town Huê, around four hours north of Hoi An, used to be the capital of Vietnam until 1945. With its small ancient city center and the old palace, it’s a nice day trip on your Vietnam itinerary. You can also make a short stopover and spend a day here before moving on to Hanoi.
  • Tailored shopping – Get affordable handmade shoes or tailored clothing at the small tailor shops. You can usually pick them up within a few days after ordering.
  • Reaching Out Tea House – Visit this wonderful cafe in the historic center which provides meaningful work to disabled and deaf people.
  • My Son Sanctuary Ancient Temples – With this early morning guided tour you can experience the cultural site of the ancient Champa culture and the impressive temples before the crowds arrive.

Stay in Hoi An

Hotels/Apartments
  • Budget stay:
    • MaiChi Villa Hoi An – In the best location this is a wonderful oasis with lots of lush plants, rooms with balconies and a pool where you can cool down.
  • Premium stay:
Hostel
  • SnapStay Hoi An – A social hostel with a co-working cafe, a pool, and some cute cats located on the local food street just a short walk from Hoi An Ancient Town.

Hue, a perfect daytrip from Hoi an when backpacking in Vietnam / Hue, ein perfekter Tagesausflug von Hoi An beim Backpacking in Vietnam

Ancient town Hue,a nice stop on your Vietnam itinerary / Alte Hauptstadt Hue, ein schöner Zwischenstopp auf einer Backpacking Vietnam Route

Temple in Hue, a nice stop on your Vietnam itinerary / Alter Palast in Hue, ein guter Zwischenstopp auf einer Vietnam Reiseroute

Impressions of Hue, close to Hoi An

Hostel recommendation in Hoi An: MaiChi Villa Hoi An

This is an amazing small hotel in the perfect location – calm but just a few steps from the Ancient Town. With its pool and the greenery, it’s like a little oasis in Hoi An where you can recharge after a day of exploring.
MaiChi Villa Hoi An
MaiChi Villa Hoi An

Northern Vietnam | Highlights on your Backpacking Vietnam itinerary

Hanoi

Vietnam’s capital Hanoi is a city of contrasts – from historical sites and temples to plain communist concrete blocks, from bustling markets to neat villas, from hipster cafés & colorful art galleries to a statue of Lenin. Some even say Hanoi reminds them of East Germany.
I had this feeling just in one other city: Tirana, the capital of Albania, where you also experience the traces of communism next to pompous Italian villas.

When you travel to Vietnam in winter, be prepared for cold temperatures. I was overwhelmed by the rainy cold in January (around 15°C / 60°F) after experiencing such heat in Vietnam’s south. And I hadn’t packed for cold weather, because Vietnam wasn’t on my itinerary initially. So be wiser than me.

ToDo in Hanoi

  • Old Quarter – A maze of busy alleys full of street food stalls and shops, temples, and a wet market (which I’d rather skip with hindsight, as many half-alive animals are sold here or killed directly in front of the eyes of the market visitors.
  • French Quarter – With its many pompous villas, this couldn’t be more different from the Old Quarter
  • Rail tracks / Hanoi Train Street – The old tracks run straight through narrow alleys in Hanoi, often the train rushes by less than a meter away from residential buildings
  • Free Walking Tour – Wander all around Hanoi’s Old Town quarter on this tour with Huyen and learn about its history, sights, and local life in a fun, informative way.
  • Free Food Tour – There are several tours where you can explore Northern Vietnamese delicacies, such as this Hanoi Food Tasting Tour in the Old Quarter. There’s even an amazing Free Vegetarian Food Tour in Hanoi and a Vegan Local Food Tour worth checking out.
  • Free Hidden Gems Walking Tour – As you can see, I love free tours! This hidden gems walking tour with Lynn takes you through lesser-known parts of Hanoi you’d probably walk past by yourself.
  • Hoan Kiem Lake & Temple of Jade Mountain  – A peaceful corner in the heart of lively Hanoi. There’s a small island with a Pagoda (Ngoc Son Temple) on a small island in the middle of the lake which you can reach by crossing a red bridge.
  • Ninh Binh Express Day Trip – This tour by YESD, a travel agency focused on Responsible Travel takes you to the best of Ninh Binh by visiting Hoa Lu Ancient Capital of Vietnam, Trang An UNESCO-recognized heritage, or Mua Cave with its stunning beauty.
  • Explore the Mai Chau region (3D2N) – With this Pu Long Tour you can explore the beautiful Mai Chau region, home to the White Thai Muong ethnic minority people and their great hospitality in a responsible tour with YESD.

Streetfood in Hanoi on my backpacking Vietnam itinerary / Streetfood in Hanoi bei meiner Backpacking Vietnam Route

Market in Hanoi while backpacking in Vietnam / Markt in Hanoi beim Backpacking in Vietnam

Cold temperatures in Hanoi during my Vietnam itinerary / Kalte Straßen von Hanoi auf meiner Vietnam Reiseroute

Impressions of cold Hanoi in January

Stay in Hanoi

Hotels/Apartments
  • Budget stay:
    • Myrcella Urban Studio – A super nice studio in the center of Hanoi, equipped with everything you need, even a washing machine and a dryer.
  • Premium stay:
    • Concon House – A stylish hotel for design lovers that is like a calm oasis in the midst of Hanoi’s historic quarter.
Hostel
  • Old Quarter View Hanoi HostelNestled in the heart of Hanoi’s Old Quarter, this is not just a beautiful and clean hostel but a great place to socialize. Try to book a bit ahead of time, as it’s very popular and gets full fast.

Hostel recommendation in Hanoi: Myrcella Urban Studio

These modern, bright studios in the center of Hanoi are surrounded by many nice cafes and restaurants. They’re equipped with everything you need, even a washing machine and a dryer – an absolute treat for travelers.
Myrcella Urban Studio Hanoi
Myrcella Urban Studio Hanoi

Ha Long Bay | Mystical limestone formations

The picturesque seascape of over 1600 limestone islands rising from the sea is a UNESCO World Heritage Site located not far from Hanoi. Known for its emerald water and limestone karsts, Ha Long Bay (Vietnamese: Vịnh Hạ Long) is probably one of the most unique surroundings I’ve experienced.

ToDo: Overnight cruise through Ha Long Bay

The cruise leads through the fascinating limestone formations of Ha Long Bay, stopping every now and then for activities, such as visiting a cave or kayaking. The sea is very calm, so you hardly notice that you’re on a boat at all.
In summer, you can also swim, however, I was there in January and the temperatures at this time of the year were way too cold. And even though the view was foggy during my trip, it added some mystical atmosphere to the picture.

I stayed one night in the town of Ha Long before the tour when I was backpacking in Vietnam, but realized that this wasn’t necessary. You can organize the cruise from Hanoi and skip this town completely because there’s nothing to do or see anyway. There are many agencies and tour companies where you can buy a 2-night or 3-night boat trip through the bay.
However, I advise you to book a tour online with good reviews, to have a better experience than I did. On our cheap tour, there were over forty people on the boat, as opposed to the 16 we had been told. The boat was so old that some of the windows were not closable. Besides, all meals were the same tasteless dish (lunch and dinner every day). And last but not least there were not enough cabins, so some passengers didn’t even get a cabin, but had to move to a hotel on one of the islands at night, instead of the night on the boat they had booked.

But I don’t want to scare you off. There are some amazing companies, such as Bhaya Cruise in Ha Long Bay. It is the first responsible cruise operator in Ha Long Bay trying to make a Ha Long Bay cruise as sustainable as possible. Bhaya’s operation practices are designed to ensure the bay’s environmental integrity. Besides, they want to make sure that local communities benefit from tourism in the area while preserving their heritage culture. Some of the actions Bhaya takes include fighting pollution in the increasingly touristy area by using no single-use plastic and supporting regular bay clean-ups. Besides, they organize educational excursions to fishing villages in the area and support a project for the protection of the endangered langurs that live on Cat Ba Island.

Mystic Halong Bay, a highlight on my backpacking Vietnam itinerary / Mystische Halong Bucht, ein Highlight jeder Backpacking Vietnam Route

Cruising through Halong Bay, a highlight when backpacking in Vietnam / Schiffahrt durch die Halong Bay, ein Highlight beim Vietnam Backpacking

Impressions of mystical, foggy Ha Long Bay in January

Cruise recommendation in Ha Long Bay: Bhaya Ha Long Cruises

Spend your days on this stylish and sustainable ship with amazing food and an authentic program with private tours far from the tourist crowds and all the other boats. In my opinion, the best way to enjoy the beauty of Ha Long Bay. They even arrange the transport back to Hanoi.
Bhaya Ha Long Cruises
Bhaya Ha Long Cruises

Sapa

Even though I didn’t manage to see this area of Vietnam myself, I highly recommend including it in your Vietnam itinerary, if the weather allows you to. Unfortunately, I couldn’t visit the scenic area of Sapa (often also written Sa Pa) while I was in Vietnam in January. This time of the year is Vietnamese winter and temperatures were around zero and it was snowing. As I already struggled with 15°C in Hanoi (having packed only summer clothes), I had to skip Sa Pa. But I’m sure I’ll come back to Vietnam and experience its wonderful far north.

This region is full of spectacular mountains and scenic hiking routes. Rivers run along lush rice fields and ethnic groups live in remote villages. The small town Sapa watches across a large valley and the green mountainscape reaches into the distance as far as the eye can see.
Some of the highlights up here are trekking to mountain villages such as Cat Ca and Ta Phin, hiking (or taking the cable car) to the summit of Mount Fansipan – Vietnam’s highest mountain, or visiting an ethnic minority market such as the Bac Ha market that turns the area into a colorful, bustling haggling scene every Sunday.

Vietnam backpacking itineraries

How many weeks do you need for your Vietnam itinerary?

Vietnam is a country that stretches super long. This means many distances are really long. I spent three weeks backpacking in Vietnam making my way from the south to the north. However, this involved several very long bus rides (e.g. 18 hours by night bus from Dalat to Hoi An and from Hue to Hanoi).
That’s also why I’d advise you to concentrate on either southern Vietnam or northern Vietnam if you’ve got only two weeks (which also makes sense considering the different climate zones).
With three or even better four weeks you can see much of the country if you’re fine with long night bus journeys.

4 weeks backpacking Vietnam itinerary

Now that you know many of the highlights of your Vietnam itinerary, let’s look at how you can plan your trip, whether you’re backpacking in Vietnam or you’re on a more comfortable trip.
4 weeks are perfect to experience southern and northern Vietnam’s culture and different landscapes.
The best is to start either in the south in HCMC (which is perfect when you’re coming from Cambodia), and travel all the way from south to north, or start up north in Hanoi (as there’s also an international airport).
  • Southern Vietnam (week 1 & 2)
    • Ho Chi Minh City (perfect start if you’re coming from Cambodia) | 3 days
      → bus to Can Tho/Mekong Delta (4 hours)
    • Mekong Delta | 2-3 days
      → night bus to Mui Ne (back to HCMC & from there 6-7h to Mui Ne)
    • Mui Ne | 3 days
      → bus to Dalat (4-5h)
    • Dalat | 3 days
      → night bus to Hoi An (18h)
  • Central Vietnam (week 3)
    • Hoi An | 3-4 days
      → bus to Hue (3h)
    • Hue | 1-2 days
      → night bus to Hanoi (18h)
  • Northern Vietnam (week 4)
    • Hanoi | 3 days
      → bus to Halong Bay (3h)
    • Halong Bay | 2-3 days
      → bus to Sapa (back to Hanoi & from there 6-7h to Sapa)
    • Sapa | 3-4 days
      → back to Hanoi
Of course, you can also turn this Vietnam backpacking itinerary around, starting in the north in Hanoi and working your way down to the south. This makes especially sense when you’re flying to Hanoi, or you’re backpacking in Laos or Thailand’s north before Vietnam and/or planning to head on to Cambodia after Vietnam.

3 weeks backpacking Vietnam itinerary

With 3 weeks you can either focus on southern & central Vietnam (see 2 weeks Vietnam itinerary and spend more time in each destination). Or you head from south to north but you won’t make it to the far north (Sapa) and you have less time in each destination. This is the 3 week backpacking Vietnam itinerary I took, however, it was quite short in some of the destinations where I’d loved to stay longer:
  • Southern Vietnam (1.5 weeks)
    • Ho Chi Minh City | 3 days
      → bus to Can Tho/Mekong Delta (4 hours)
    • Mekong Delta | 1-2 days
      → night bus to Mui Ne (back to Hanoi & from there 6-7h to Mui Ne)
    • Mui Ne | 3 days
      → bus to Dalat (4-5h)
    • Dalat | 3 days
      → night bus to Hoi An (18h)
  • Central & Northern Vietnam (1.5 weeks)
    • Hoi An | 3 days
      → bus to Hue (3h)
    • Hue | 1 day
      → night bus to Hanoi (18h)
    • Hanoi | 3 days
      → bus to Halong Bay (3h)
    • Halong Bay | 2-3 days
Of course, you can also travel this Vietnam backpacking itinerary around from north to south.

2 weeks backpacking Vietnam itinerary

If you’ve got only two weeks in Vietnam, I’d recommend to concentrate on
  • either northern and central Vietnam (Hanoi, Sapa, Halong Bay, Hue & Hoi An)
  • or southern and central Vietnam (HCMC, Mekong Delta, Mui Ne, Dalat & Hoi An)
The distance from the south all the way north is quite far, so you would lose lots of time getting from one region to the next if you tried seeing it all.

Map of backpacking Vietnam itinerary

Map of Vietnam itinerary Map of Vietnam backpacking itinerary (click for interactive view)

How to get to Vietnam?

When you come to Vietnam by plane, you will probably arrive in either Hanoi (in the country’s north) or Ho Chi Minh City (in the south).
If you’re visiting Vietnam as part of a longer backpacking trip, you can reach the country by bus from Cambodia (to Ho Chi Minh City) or Laos (to Hanoi).
I made my way to Vietnam after Cambodia, from Phnom Penh to HCMC. The bus ride to Vietnam surprisingly was very comfortable. There was even wifi on the bus and the border crossing was the most organized I went through on my whole Southeast Asia backpacking trip).
I had already organized my visa for Vietnam at an agency in Phnom Penh. So, now I just had to leave the bus to walk through the Cambodian border, wait around half an hour at the Vietnamese border until my name was called, get my passport back and my luggage scanned. That was it. Why can’t every border crossing be that uncomplicated?

Coming from Cambodia, I instantly realized the change of scenery – the fields next to the street are much greener, and within only minutes I spotted the first Vietnamese workers on rice fields, wearing those typical Vietnamese conical straw hats. A wonderful way of entering the country.

How to get around on your backpacking Vietnam itinerary?

On my backpacking Vietnam itinerary, I mainly traveled around by (night) bus. There’s a great bus and train network in Vietnam, and the sleeper buses are super comfortable (you can basically lay down which is much more comfortable than any night bus in Europe).
But if you want to travel all the way from HCMC up to Hanoi, you have to be prepared for some long bus journeys (e.g. from Dalat to Hoi An: 18 hours night bus, or 20 hours from Hue to Hanoi).

Be aware, that some long-distance buses drop you off next to the street close to your destination town, and you have to take a motorbike taxi to get into town.

Within towns and cities, you can often rent bicycles which is a fun way of seeing the area. And if you want to explore more of the landscape I can recommend renting a scooter.

Renting bicycles, a fun way to explore your Vietnam itinerary / Fahrräder mieten auf der Vietnam Backpacking Route

Bicycles in Vietnam

Good to know | Backpacking Vietnam itinerary

Sustainable travel in Vietnam

Sustainable travel is a broad topic. While many people only connect it to reducing waste or eco-accommodation, there’s so much more to it.
In Vietnam, tourism is still evolving and there hasn’t been much focus on sustainable practices, as the industry is still relatively new in the country (in comparison to other Southeast Asian countries such as Thailand). Large hotels have settled on once-pristine beaches such as Mui Ne, Danang, and more and more islands. They keep rooms air-conditioned and pay no attention to energy saving.

But with the growing tourism and its impacts, more sustainable businesses are slowly emerging. The country has to make a shift before mass tourism hits and destroys its unique natural wonders.
When you dig into the topic of sustainable tourism in Vietnam, you can find some tour companies such as Bhaya and YESD RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL. There are some eco-hotels, especially in the remote north, and many small businesses such as cafes, restaurants, and coffee farms operating sustainably.
It’s important to support these businesses as travelers in order to create a rising demand and contribute to a shift, so we protect the country’s vulnerable ecosystems, wildlife, and cultural heritage. That’s the only way future generations – both locals and travelers – can still enjoy the beauty of Vietnam as we do today.

Find out more about sustainable travel in Vietnam at the official tourism site promoting local and inclusive businesses.

A temple in Vietnam

What can I do as a traveler?

Entering the hot climate when you embark on your Vietnam itinerary may be overwhelming and the first reaction of many travelers is turning up the air condition. But air-con skyrockets energy consumption like crazy. Sure, you have to get used to the climate, but that’s what deciding to travel to a tropical country naturally involves. So try to turn down the aircon a bit and keep it off when you’re not in your room.

Besides that, many choices can make a small or larger difference.
I’ve written a comprehensive guide full of tips on how to travel more sustainably. Often, small things can change a lot. Check this out, if you’re interested in learning more about it.

But to give you the most relevant tips for your trip to Vietnam, here’s an overview of what you should consider to reduce the negative impacts of your trip to Vietnam:
  • Stay with locals: in guesthouses, small B&Bs, or homestays. Especially in the Mekong Delta and Sapa there are many lovely local homestays where you can truly experience local culture and life.
  • Save energy & water: In your accommodation, skip on getting fresh towels & cleaning daily, use a fan instead of aircon, and take short showers.
  • Support local businesses: Eat and shop in small locally owned restaurants and shops instead of supporting international chains.
  • Book eco-friendly tours: Such as Bhaya Cruise in Ha Long Bay to explore the UNESCO World Heritage Site sustainably, or visiting Ning Binh with YESD RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL.
  • Cause as little waste as possible: It’s actually simple – Say no to plastic bags and packaging (instead bring a tote bag) and at street food stalls bring your own reusable cutlery.
  • Bring your own eco-friendly products: Especially in a country like Vietnam located by the sea, make sure to use reef-safe sunscreen without chemicals that harm the ocean, a shampoo bar that saves plastic, and a bamboo toothbrush.
  • Bring your own water bottle: I never travel without my self-purifying water bottle with which I can filter water anywhere I go and make it drinkable.

Zero waste travel in Vietnam

A drink with plastic waste or natural packaging – the choice is yours.

  • Avoid any activities that involve animal cruelty: such as weasel coffee/cat coffee (neither buy or drink it, nor visit these coffee plantations)
  • Eat responsibly:  Besides eating in local restaurants where ingredients are usually from the regions, try to eat less meat or even plant-based. This can radically improve your ecological footprint, as meat consumption is one of the most severe causes of climate change.
  • Use public transport & avoid flying within the country even though distances are far. There is a great bus and train network. If those long-distance bus or train journeys are too far for you, focus on either a southern or northern Vietnam itinerary.
  • Be respectful & mindful of local customs. When traveling in Vietnam’s highlands in the far north, be respectful to ethnic hill tribe minorities, especially when taking pictures. Always ask before and respect, if they don’t want pictures taken of them.
Besides, packing light and traveling more slowly makes your trip more sustainable as well.

A woman carrying food on her head in Vietnam

With our without plastic – the choice is yours

Weather & travel season

When is the best time to go backpacking in Vietnam?

Well, this mainly depends on which parts of Vietnam you want to see. There are three different climate zones in this long-stretched country. The good thing about this is that you can visit some parts of the country any time of the year.
The best times to visit the different regions in Vietnam:
  • Southern Vietnam: November to February
  • Central Vietnam: February to May
  • Northern Vietnam: September to November
I headed on my Vietnam itinerary in January. While it was hot in the south (over 30°C / 85°F), it got more and more fresh the further north I got.
Due to the altitude and the fact that this time of the year is Vietnamese winter, the temperatures in Dalat were around 25°C (77°F) during the days and 15°C (less than 60°F) at night. In Hanoi, it was as cold as 15°C (less than 60°F) during daytime.
And the further north you travel, the colder it gets. I wanted to visit the mountains of Sapa, but they were covered in snow and I had no clothes or shoes for temperatures around zero degrees. So I had to skip this part of my backpacking Vietnam itinerary.

Sand dunes of Mui Ne, a highlight when backpacking in Vietnam / Dünen von Mui Ne, ein Highlight beim Vietnam Backpacking

Cold temperatures in Hanoi during my Vietnam itinerary / Kalte Straßen von Hanoi auf meiner Vietnam Reiseroute

Yes this is both Vietnam in January – heat in Mui Ne & freezing in Hanoi

Visa, currency & language

Getting a visa for Vietnam

Check the requirements for entering Vietnam with your Foreign Office. Requirements can change any time. When I was backpacking in Vietnam, I still had to arrange a visa beforehand. I had organized my visa for Vietnam at an agency in Phnom Penh where I had paid $61 and could collect it the next day.
Nowadays, as a German citizen, you don’t need a visa anymore if you stay in Vietnam for less than 45 days. So it’s always important to check the current regulations for your nationality.

Vietnamese currency

The local currency is the Vietnamese Dong, and it’s a challenge to convert prices.

When I came to Vietnam, my first way led to an ATM, where I withdrew two million Vietnamese Dong (and I felt like a king haha – yet this is less than 80$). I can tell you, calculating prices and exchange rates here is a crazy task.

1 $ = approx. 25.000 Dongs

So a meal for 50.000 Dongs is around 2$.

At least, traveling in Vietnam is really affordable. For example, you can get a meal in a restaurant for around 50 – 80.000 Dong (2-3$), and street food can be even cheaper. A pho soup is usually around 50-60.000 Dong (around 2$). You can find simple snacks like Banh Mi or spring rolls for around 20.000 Dong (less than 1$).

Vietnamese language & helpful basics

It’s always nice to know a few words in the local language to show respect and make locals smile.
I always learn at least how to greet people and say thank you in the local language. Try to remember these words when you’re backpacking in Vietnam:
  • Hello – Xin chào (or simply “Chào” as a casual hello)
  • Thank you – Cảm ơn

Vietnamese hats

Typical Vietnamese Food

In my opinion, Vietnamese food is some of the best food in the world, besides Malaysian and Thai food. You can walk to any street food stall and order yummy food.
Don’t waste a lot of time eating in restaurants when you’re backpacking in Vietnam, because the best food is on the street.

Here are some typical Vietnamese dishes:
  • Pho – The classic! A noodle soup usually with meat, but in more and more places you also find vegetarian Pho soup.
  • Bun Chay – In general “bun” are the thin rice noodles, Bun Chay is a delicious rice noodle salad.
  • Vietnamese Curry – A thin, soupy curry often served with rice.
  • Banh Bao – Steamed buns, traditionally with meat but sometimes you can find vegetarian ones as well.
  • Banh Mi – A baguette sandwich that is a reminder of the French colonial times but with local filling such as meat or tofu, salad, and a spicy sauce.
  • Fresh spring rolls – Raw spring rolls that aren’t fried (sometimes also called summer rolls).
The traditional way of eating in Vietnam is when the whole family comes together, sitting on a straw mat on the floor with many bowls in front of them that are passed around and shared. There are bowls with Bún (thin rice noodles), rice, different types of vegetables, curries, and meat. You should try this at least once (during a tour or in a guest house/hostel).

Vietnamese fresh spring rolls

Family dinner when backpacking in Vietnam / Family Dinner beim Vietnam Backpacking Trip

Street food stall on my backpacking Vietnam itinerary / Streetfood-Stand auf meiner Vietnam Reiserouse

Food in Vietnam: Fresh spring rolls | Traditional family dinner | Street food stall

Backpacking Vietnam itinerary – a wrap-up

Vietnam in three words: Nón lá (the typical straw hats) | street food | colorful lanterns

Did you know? The Mekong Delta is one of the world’s largest river deltas and the largest in Southeast Asia.

Favorite photo spot: The floating market in the Mekong Delta

Favorite food: A “jungle curry” (pumpkin curry) I ate at a street food stall in Ho Chi Minh City

Can’t miss: Canyoning in Da Lat

Are you excited about your backpacking Vietnam adventure? Is there something missing in this Vietnam itinerary that you highly recommend? Let me know and leave a comment below.

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