Imagine a lush, foggy mountain landscape with the majestic Mekong River meandering through. Waterfalls so turquoise you can’t believe your eyes. Ancient, peaceful Buddhist temples. You are on your Laos itinerary, exploring the rough backcountry of what seems to be one of Southeast Asia’s last untouched areas. Unspoiled nature, still spared from mass tourism.
Within the first few hours after entering the country on my Laos itinerary, I honestly fell for it. Even though I hadn’t planned to travel to this country, I ended up here, hungry for new experiences. Travel friends that I had met in Vietnam convinced me to join them. And I didn’t regret any second in Laos.
Even though the country has become part of many Southeast Asia backpacking itineraries by now, you can still experience a rather pristine adventure when you’re backpacking in Laos. In comparison to its neighboring backpacking paradise Thailand, Laos is even cheaper and less touristy. But let’s see for how long it will stay this way.
Table of contents
Highlights on your backpacking Laos itinerary
Laos itineraries
Good to know for your Laos itinerary
Highlights on your Laos itinerary
Luang Prabang | Spiritual center & old king’s city
Luang Prabang was the first stop on my Laos itinerary and is the reason I fell in love with the country so fast. It’s a cute little town on the Mekong River with almost 80 Buddhist temples, one more beautiful than the other. The town is a UNESCO World Heritage and some say it’s one of the most beautiful towns in Southeast Asia. One thing is for sure – it’s the spiritual center of Laos. Every morning before sunrise hundreds of monks silently walk the streets to collect their morning alms from locals offering sticky rice, bananas, and cooked meals to the monks.
Already on the first evening, even though I was exhausted from a 29-hour bus journey and just looking for some food at the town’s night market, I already felt the charm and cozy atmosphere around Luang Prabang. The town’s evening market is a paradise for cheap vegetarian street food and the surrounding mountain landscape is simply stunning. Set between two rivers – the Mekong and the Nam Khan – the old king’s city is the picture-perfect backpackers’ town.
Some of the temples in Luang Prabang
To Do in Luang Prabang
- Visit the temples – As Luang Prabang is famous for its temples, you cannot stay there without visiting at least some of them, especially the ones on the Phousi Hill (20,000 but with an amazing view), Wat Xieng Thong (25,000 Kip) and Wat Makmo (free), all of them right in the heart of town. I found that the Lao temples looked different from Thai or Vietnamese ones with their decorations and colors, but each one exceptionally beautiful in its own way.
- Sunset by the Mekong River – There are many spots in Luang Prabang where you can watch a beautiful sunset. Among my favorites is by the river, where you can sip a drink in one of the cafes or enjoy a sunset cruise.
- Bamboo bridges – The traditionally built bamboo bridges cross the Nam Khan River and can be used by pedestrians. Due to the traditional building technique, they get washed away during the rainy season, so you can only visit them during the dry months. It used to be free when I was in Luang Prabang but I heard that you have to pay 10,000 Kip (to cross & return) by now.
- Night market – In comparison to many other markets I’ve experienced in Asia, the night market in Luang Prabang is very pleasant to walk through. You cannot only get a delicious vegetarian street food buffet for 10,000 Kip (less than $1) but you can also linger through the market stalls and look at the goods without being shouted at or pestered to buy stuff.
- Participate in tak bat (the morning alms) – If you’re fine with getting up at 5 a.m., it’s worth joining this silent ritual during sunrise. It’s quite spectacular to see the over 200 monks silently walking in a line, carrying their alms bowls in front of them which the locals, kneeling on the street, fill with food. However, when I was there I witnessed several tourists getting too close to the monks and blocking their way to take pictures. Please be wiser and watch this old tradition with respect from further away.
- Kuang Si waterfall – After a 30-minute tuk-tuk ride from town, you reach these amazing turquoise waterfalls where you can swim and enjoy Lao nature. They appear almost too blue to be true. If you prefer a visit with a tour, take a look at Kuang Si Bike Ride & Long-Tail Boat Cruise, organized by Tiger Trail Travel, a travel agency focusing on community-based tourism.
- Cooking Class & Local Baci Ceremony – This cooking class & Baci ceremony is a true highlight! Start at the local market, cook your own food (vegetarian options are no problem), and experience a wonderful ceremony with music and blessings. I love events like this where you can really interact with locals and get to know their culture more in-depth.
- Join a multi-day trekking adventure tour with homestay – Delve into the backcountry and rural villages with Tiger Trail Travel who aim to generate income for poor communities through their community-based tours. An unforgettable adventure:
- 3-Day Cultural Remote Trek with Homestay – Head deep into the mountains, jungle, and rice paddies to homestays in remote villages where you can step into the world of Lao mountain village tribes.
- Mountain Trek & Local Villages Overnight Tour – Embark on a two-day adventure and immerse yourself in the scenic beauty of rural villages. Meet local people and spend a night in a family homestay.
Highlights in Luang Prabang: Bamboo bridge | Morning alms | Kuang Si Waterfalls
Stay in Luang Prabang:
Hotels:
- Budget stay:
- Moonlight Champa Riverview – Located on the Nam Khan River, this small hotel has the loveliest lobby area. The hammocks overlooking the river are the perfect place to relax after a day of exploring. They also have bikes you can borrow.
- Premium stay:
- Maison Dalabua – A stunningly beautiful family-owned hotel committed to preserving the environment. They’re sustainability certified and use only organic and locally sourced products, no single-use plastics, organic waste composting and many more sustainability measures.
Hostel:
- The Jam Hostel – An awesome hostel with a large pool and a very social atmosphere in the heart of Luang Prabang.
- Sa Sa Lao – The quieter option within a paradisiacal space full of plants and flowers, just a 20-minute walk from Luang Prabang’s center.
Budget hotel recommendation for Luang Prabang: Moonlight Champa Riverview
How about hanging out in a hammock or sofa on the wooden terrace and having breakfast overlooking the river? This little hotel is so beautiful and provides an exceptional experience. And the rooms are so lovely, you won’t believe your eyes what you get here in such an affordable place. Some of the rooms even have mountain or river view and a little balcony.
Vang Vieng | A paradise for adventurers
While Vang Vieng used to have a party town image with a somewhat bad past, it has shifted to a much quieter paradise for outdoor and action lovers. It used to be famous for its tubing where you could not only float down the river on tubes but stop in between at some bars along the river for a cocktail. Sadly, many tourists carried this to excess, leading to bad accidents. Until the government saw no other option than to shut it down.
In the meantime, the vibe in Vang Vieng has changed to a laid-back place full of outdoor and action activities. And when you take a look at the amazing nature around Vang Vieng, you realize that this is the perfect place. From kayaking to rock climbing, from zip lining to hot air balloon rides – you’ve got a huge choice.
What I also liked about Vang Vieng is that you bump into the same people over and over again, because this town is so small. After only three days I felt like I got to know so many backpackers here and couldn’t walk along the streets without actually meeting someone I knew.
Impressions of Vang Vieng
To Do in Vang Vieng
- Zip Lining – Enjoy a half-day zip-lining adventure surrounded by lush, green forests and the scenic mountains around Vang Vien. With this tour, you can also book a tubing experience at Tham Nam None cave as an additional option.
- Kayaking – The area around Vang Vieng is a paradise to go kayaking on the Nam Song River. I especially like this tour which combines a kayak tour with cave tubing, and zip lining or the blue lagoon.
- Blue Lagoons – There are a few blue natural pools around Vang Vieng where you can relax, swim, and jump into the water from tree branches.
- Viewpoints – The mountains around Vang Vieng offer several beautiful viewpoints, e.g. Nam Xay where you have an amazing view across the area (it’s steep but only 20 minutes climb up to the viewpoint).
- Rent a scooter – The best way to cruise around the scenic landscapes, and discover viewpoints and lagoons around Vang Vieng.
- Ride a balloon – Vang Vieng’s balloon rides for sunset have become quite a popular activity when backpacking in Laos. The views are for sure spectacular but it’s an expensive affair.
- Tubing – It’s still possible to go tubing in Vang Vieng, but without the alcohol and drugs, because the bars along the river have been closed.
Stay in Vang Vieng:
Hotels/Homestays:
- Budget stays:
- Bearlinbungalow –Wow, what a location! These lovely bungalows are auch a hidden gem away from the hustle and bustle of the town centre. The terrace view of the mountains in the background is spectacular.
- Premium stay:
- Riverside Boutique Resort – In a magical location next to the river, here you find wonderful rooms and an amazing pool that make you want to stay forever. Heaven on earth!
Hostel:
- Vang Vieng Chill House – A great location with comfy beds, clean facilities, and a really nice pool. What else do you need?
Guesthouse recommendation for Vang Vieng: Bearlinbungalow
Stay in the outskirts of Vang Vieng town in a little oasis with gorgeous mountain views. All the bungalows are really nicely decorated and clean and you have your own little terrace where you can enjoy the scenery. The gardens are full of flowers, birds, and butterflies. Plus, they pick you up for free at the train station.
Vientiane | Southeast Asia’s calmest capital
When you ask anyone backpacking in Southeast Asia about the calmest capital, you’ll probably hear Vientiane over an over again. There’s a laid-back vibe you wouldn’t expect to think about other capitals such as Bangkok or Hanoi.
But this also means there’s not much to do. That’s why many travelers skip the capital on their Laos itinerary. Totally understandable if you’re short on time. But if you can spare one or two days, give Vientiane a chance.
You can feel a mix of more and more modern and still a few colonial buildings in the center but a rather rural feel apart from that. And there are some nice temples and monuments around.
To Do in Vientiane
- Wat Phra That Luang – The most important monument in Laos: A golden temple with a lotus flower-shaped tip of its tower.
- Patuxai – A large war monument, something like the Arc De Triomphe of Laos.
- Buddha Park (Wat Xieng Khouane Luang) – A public garden outside of Vientiane full of Buddha sculptures of all sizes.
- Night market – Every night after 6 p.m. the city’s night market opens its doors in Chao Anouvong Park with many clothing stalls but also a section with loads of street food.
Stay in Vientiane:
Hotels:
- Budget stay: Sailomyen – Small but comfortable and modern rooms (they have double, twin and dorm rooms) in a small hostel with a nice cafe downstairs.
- Premium stay: Green Park Boutique Hotel – A wonderful hotel that provides a haven of tranquility in Vientiane. There’s a nice pool to relax by and a wonderful restaurant with several vegetarian options.
Hostel:
- Barn1920s Hostel – What a unique hostel with a quirky 20s theme! With a lovely chill vibe, comfy & clean rooms, and a super nice cafe where you get a free drink and breakfast every day.
Budget hotel recommendation for Vientiane: Sailomyen
An amazing budget hotel with small but very comfortable, clean and modern rooms. There’s a cute café downstairs and a great vibe. And it’s close to downtown. So everything you need in a budget stay.
Pakse | Laos landscape at its best
The popular Pakse Loop is well-known among anyone backpacking in Laos. And it’s for good reason. The landscape around Pakse is Laos at its best. Around the so-called Bolavan Plateau, coffee is grown, waterfalls rush down the hills and ancient Buddhist Temples watch majestically over the area.
While the small town of Pakse is also worth spending a day at, people come here to experience a true motorbike or scooter adventure on their Laos itinerary. The Loop is perfect for riding along on a scooter at your own pace, stopping wherever you feel like, to admire this peaceful haven.
ToDo In Pakse
- Ride a motorbike/scooter on the Pakse Loop – This is the number one reason people come to Pakse and is so worth it!
- Golden Buddha for sunrise/sunset – What a lovely place to soak up the area’s spirit and watch the landscape bathed in amber.
- Wat Phou Ruin – The ancient Hindu temple ruin is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
- Champasak – Another stop near Pakse worth a stop, with lush rice paddies and wonderful temples.
- Waterfalls – Especially Tad Fane Waterfall and Tad Gneuang are really impressive.
Scooter adventures in the Lao mountains
Stay in Pakse
Hotels
- Budget stay:
- Xuanmai Garden Resort – A lovely privately-run oasis in Pakse! Cozy rooms, extremely clean, and a wonderful garden to relax in.
- Premium stay:
- Le Jardin – A beautiful property with comfy rooms and a super nice pool. And the staff is so lovely and helpful.
Hostel
- Sanga Hostel – Super welcoming & helpful staff, the most comfy large beds, and the place is constantly cleaned, so it’s spotless. Plus: There’s free ice cream!
Hotel recommendation in Pakse: Xuanmai Garden Resort
This is the perfect place to enjoy a calm time in Pakse before or after your motorbike adventure! The lovely owner runs this place by herself and is always smiling. The large garden is the heart of the place, and the food is amazing (try the vegetarian green curry!).
Don Det | 4000 Islands on the Mekong River
In the far south of Laos, the region of the so-called “4000 islands” (Si Phan Don) awaits you like a natural wonder. Who would have thought that? After all, Laos is the only country in Southeast Asia without access to the sea. I’m not sure if there are actually 4000 islands, but there are definitely too many to visit. The Mekong River meanders through the area like a snake with a thousand arms. It was my last stop on my Laos itinerary and it couldn’t have been a better final chapter of this part of my trip.
The most popular islands are Don Det and Don Khon. But “most popular” still means there are just a handful of accommodations (mostly basic bungalows) and literally just a single hostel and no ATMs on the islands. Remember that before you go there.
There’s a really laid-back, calm vibe on the islands. We spent our days here sipping drinks in small cozy bars full of cushions on the floor, or rented bicycles to ride to a swimming pool on the other side of the island where we played with a ball with some Lao kids in the water. Once, we went on a boat trip to another island, spending the afternoon on the beach, and every now and then we ended the nights at a campfire by the water. All in all, the 4000 islands are rather a place to chill out, so perfect to spend some relaxed days.
To Do in Don Det & 4000 Islands
- Rent a bicycle – I love thinking back to lazily riding across Don Det on those rusty, old bicycles, passing by rice paddies, and stopping at the river or a laid-back bar every now and then. The islands are super small, so it’s just around 20 minutes from one side of Don Det to the other.
- Go kayaking – Paddle on the Mekong River and stop by one of the nice, sandy beaches for a relaxed afternoon.
- Watch the sunset – The sunset is quite spectacular in most places because you’re always close to the water and the reflection of the setting sun is so beautiful over here. The bridge between Don Det & Don Khon is a great spot for sunset as well.
- Li Phi Sophamit Waterfall – Located in Don Khon, this is one of the largest waterfalls of the Mekong. You can get there by bike using the bridge that connects with the islands.
- Khon Phapeng Waterfall – The largest waterfall in Southeast Asia, not far from Don Det.
Impressions of 4000 Islands
Stay in Don Det
Hotels
- Budget stay:
- Namknong View – Basic bungalows located right next to the river in Don Det with lots of hammocks and chairs for watching the sunset.
- Premium stay:
- Sala Don Khone – Floating cottages in a beautiful location on Khone island with perfect morning and sunset views for an extremely affordable price.
Hostel
- Easy Go – Well, Easy Go is the only hostel around 4000 Islands that you can book online. All the other places only offer private rooms/bungalows. The family who runs Easy Go are super lovely and you can rent bikes here. The homecooked food is good too and there’s a free pick up from the pier.
Budget hotel recommendation in Don Det: Namknong View
While you sleep in basic bungalows here, you’re right next to the river. There’s a lovely wooden terrace overlooking the river and lots of hammocks and chairs where you can watch the breathtaking sunset. It’s within easy walking distance of restaurants and bars and you can rent bikes here.
Backpacking Laos itineraries
How many weeks do you need for your Laos itinerary?
Although the country isn’t large, it’s nice not to rush through but to get a deeper feeling for the Lao culture and local traditions.
Within two weeks, you can visit the country’s popular highlights from Luang Prabang, Vang Vieng and/or Pakse and Don Det (4000 islands).
But I’d recommend extending your Laos itinerary to at least 3 weeks to experience more of the backcountry.
And with four weeks you can really get off the beaten path and visit some more gems (see Laos itineraries below).
Tuk-tuks in Laos
How to get to Laos?
There are several ways to reach Laos. If you come to Laos by plane you’ll most probably fly to Luang Prabang or Vientiane. But there are also airports in Pakse and Savannakhet.
Many also start their Laos itinerary by bus, just as I did. I came from Hanoi in Vietnam and had to take a crazy (officially) 25-hour bus ride (which ended up being 29 hours). And I’m not sure I would do it again even though I love traveling by bus. Everything over 20 hours on a bus can be really exhausting.
But the border crossing from Vietnam to Laos, which looked like some construction site somewhere in the middle of the foggy mountains, was quite relaxed. And we had a wonderful welcome, as we drove through the serpentines in the picturesque Lao mountains.
You can reach Laos by bus through the following bus routes:
- From Vietnam to Luang Prabang or eastern Laos
- From northern Thailand to northern Laos
- From Cambodia to southern Laos
The most iconic way to enter Laos is by slow boat from northern Thailand (from either Chiang Mai or Chiang Rai) – a trip that takes two days and is extremely special. You float on the Mekong River for two days through amazing landscapes and slowly reach Luang Prabang. Everyone I met who has done the slow boat trip loved it.
Minivan in the Lao mountains
How to get around Laos?
It’s easy, comfortable, and cheap to travel around Laos by bus. E.g. from Luang Prabang it’s a beautiful (but winding) 5h bus ride through the Lao mountains.
The buses that run during the daytime are often minivans. But the night buses are really comfortable. You have like a proper mattress to lay down (which you share with a travel buddy) and a curtain that you can close.
But in recent years the train network has improved a lot as well. There’s a new high-speed train in Northern Laos. Be aware that the luggage control is quite strict here. You feel like you’re at an airport and can’t bring a pocket knife or similar items on board the train.
In order to move around one place, I recommend renting a scooter which is so much fun exploring the area. But you can also take a tuk-tuk.
Around Laos by tuk-tuk | minivan | night bus
Inside a night bus in Laos
Suggested backpacking Laos itineraries
2 weeks backpacking Laos itinerary
Now that you’ve read about the highlights of your Laos backpacking adventure, let’s look at how you can plan your Laos itinerary.
You can start either in the north (especially when you come from Thailand or Vietnam) or in the south (especially coming from Cambodia).
Here’s my suggested Laos itinerary for 2 weeks (from north to south, as I did on my Southeast Asia trip):
- Luang Prabang | 3 days→ night bus (5h) or train (1h) to Vang Vieng
- Vang Vieng | 3 days→ bus (2h) or train (1h) to Vientiane
- Vientiane | 1-2 days→ night bus (11h) to Pakse
- Pakse | 3-4 days→ bus (3h) & short boat ride (15min) to Don Det
- Don Det | 3 days→ on to Cambodia
Of course, you can also turn this Laos backpacking itinerary around, starting in Don Det (4000 Islands) and working your way up north to Luang Prabang.
Map of 2 weeks backpacking Laos itinerary
Map of 2 weeks Laos itinerary (click for interactive view)
3-4 weeks backpacking Laos itinerary
With three or even four weeks you can extend your trip, get off the beaten path, and visit some more gems that I didn’t cover in this Laos guide such as:
- Nong Khiaw and/or Luang Namtha – Two wonderful small towns surrounded by stunning nature close to the Thai border (northern Laos).
- Phonsavan / Plain of Jars – Where you can visit a mysterious landscape covered with hundreds huge ancient jars and sculptures. A spectacle I really want to visit on my next Laos itinerary.
- Kong Lor Cave – a breathtaking cave which can be reached from Vientiane
- Vieng Xai – The rough, wild east of Laos, known for its caves around the village which were home to thousands of people for almost a decade during the so-called “Secret War”.
- Thakhek – On the Thakhek Loop, you can head out on a motorbike adventure, similar to the Pakse Loop, but more off the beaten path and some say with even more stunning landscapes.
Map of 3-4 weeks backpacking Laos itinerary
Map of 3-4 weeks Laos itinerary (click for interactive view)
Good to know | Tips for your Laos itinerary
Sustainable travel in Laos
Laos has huge areas of unspoiled nature, rainforests and rich biodiversity. There’s a network of 20 national protected areas which make up 14% of the country.
In comparison to its neighbor Cambodia, which still has a long way to go when it comes to environmental protection and eco-tourism, Laos has taken action right after opening up to mass tourism back in the 90s. This is due to the conservation efforts, activists and organizations that had already done amazing work before.
Yet, when you’re on your Laos itinerary, you soon realize that despite the country’s spectacular nature, people have a rather low respect for the environment in the cities. Often, plastic waste and rubbish bags cover the sides of the streets.
But sustainable travel is a broad topic. While many people only connect it to reducing waste or eco-accommodation, there’s so much more to it. Tourism has also shown a negative impact, such as the party tourism in Vang Vieng.
Littered streets in Laos
But with the growing tourism and its impacts, more sustainable businesses have emerged. When you dig into sustainable tourism in Laos, you can find some tour companies such as Tiger Trail Travel. They focus on community-based tourism aiming to generate income for poor communities in Laos.
Tiger Trail Travel offers some amazing tours worth taking a look at. Many of them start in Luang Prabang, such as:
- 3-Day Cultural Remote Trek with Homestay – On this multi-day hike you head deep into the mountains, jungle, and rice paddies to homestays in remote villages where you can step into the world of Lao mountain village tribes.
- Mountain Trek & Local Villages Overnight Tour – Embark on a two-day adventure and immerse yourself in the scenic beauty of rural villages. Meet local people and spend a night in a family homestay.
- Kuang Si Bike Ride & Long-Tail Boat Cruise – Join a guided bike tour on a paved road to Kuang Si Waterfalls, followed by a long-tail boat ride back to Luang Prabang.
It’s important to support businesses like these to create a demand and contribute to the protection of the vulnerable ecosystems, wildlife and cultural heritage of the country. That’s the only way future generations – both locals and travelers – can still enjoy the beauty of Laos as we do today.
What can I do as a traveler on my Laos itinerary?
While many people and companies may knowingly and unknowingly harm the culture and environment in Laos, there are many choices with which you can make a small or larger difference.
It’s important to prevent being part of the problem and to raise awareness in order to be part of the solution instead.
It’s important to prevent being part of the problem and to raise awareness in order to be part of the solution instead.
I’ve written a comprehensive guide full of tips on how to travel more sustainably. Often, small things can change a lot. Check this out, if you’re interested in learning more about it:
But to give you the most relevant tips for your Laos itinerary, here’s an overview of what you should consider to reduce the negative impacts when backpacking in Laos:
- Dispose of your waste – Never join in when you witness such thoughtless behavior like throwing waste on the street. Always dispose of your own waste in a proper waste bin. And to minimize your waste say no to plastic bags (instead bring a tote bag) and at street food stalls bring your own reusable cutlery.
- Never buy any wildlife/animal products – With poaching and illegal hunting of rare species being a huge danger to Laos wildlife, keep in mind not to buy any animal products such as ivory or tiger skin on markets.
- Bring your own eco-friendly products: Make sure to use reef-safe sunscreen without harmful chemicals, a shampoo bar that saves plastic and a bamboo toothbrush.
- Bring your own water bottle: I never travel without my self-purifying water bottle with which I can filter water anywhere I go and make it drinkable.
Let’s keep natural wonders, like Kuang Si Waterfalls, clean
- Stay with locals – Prefer guesthouses, small B&Bs or homestays on your Laos itinerary. There are many lovely local homestays, even in remote villages, where you can truly experience Lao culture and life.
- Support local businesses – Eat and shop in small locally owned restaurants and shops instead of supporting international chains. By eating local dishes you consume mostly fresh, regional produce which supports Lao farmers and avoids ingredients getting shipped across the world to reach your plate.
- Avoid any activities that involve animal cruelty – such as elephant riding or weasel coffee (neither buy or drink it, nor visit these coffee plantations).
- Hire local tour guides & book responsible tours – Such as Tiger Trail Travel, so you can help employ local people.
- Be aware of orphanages when volunteering – While the idea of helping children in a poor country shows that your heart is in the right place, this has become a scam business in many Asian countries. Fake orphanages run by criminals take advantage of the kids. Also, don’t give money to begging children. This only supports the problem that parents send their kids to collect money instead of going to school. Rather volunteer with NGOs that support community projects and promote children going to school.
Treating locals and their traditions respectfully is an important part of sustainable traveling
- Save energy & water – In your accommodation, don’t ask for fresh towels & cleaning daily, use electricity sparingly (e.g. use a fan instead of aircon), and take short showers. According to UN and UNICEF data, 82% of households in Laos lack access to a safely managed water supply and 39% lack safe sanitation. So it’s even more important that we as travelers consume water responsibly.
- Eat responsibly – Besides eating in local restaurants where ingredients are usually from the regions, try to eat less meat or even plant-based. This can radically improve your ecological footprint, as meat consumption is one of the most severe causes of climate change. When eating with locals, always eat with your right hand.
- Use public transport & avoid flying within the country – There’s a great bus network in Laos and the train network is improving as well. And most distances aren’t even that far in the country, so there’s no need to fly.
- Be respectful & mindful of local customs – Especially when you decide to visit the morning alms (take bat ritual), make sure to watch silently from the distance. When I was there, the spiritual atmosphere was destroyed by the large number of tourists impatiently awaiting the monks. Some were even as unrespectful as to get way too close to the monks and block their way to take pictures. In my eyes unbelievable how people can behave that way when having the opportunity to be part of such an old ritual, but sadly turning it into an endangered one.
Also be respectful to locals and ethnic minorities, especially when taking pictures. Always ask before and respect, if they don’t want pictures taken.
Besides, packing light and traveling more slowly makes your Cambodia itinerary more sustainable as well.
Respect local customs, such as taking off your shoes before entering a house, on your Laos itinerary
Treating locals and their traditions respectfully is an important part of sustainable traveling
Weather & travel season
When is the best time to go backpacking in Cambodia?
The best time to plan your Laos itinerary is during the dry season between November and April. But at the end of the dry season it gets really hot and the so-called “burning season” starts. Roughly from March to April people start fires burning down their rice fields causing a terrible haze. So I’d recommend visiting Laos between November and February.
I visited Laos in February and the country awaited me with a nice dry climate. During the dry season, it rather feels like you’re traveling through a Mediterranean country than through Asia. This was wonderful in my opinion after I had traveled through the rainy seasons of Malaysia and Singapore, the heat of Thailand and Cambodia, and just lately the cold winter of Vietnam.
But even during the rainy season it rarely rains the whole day. So you can also have an amazing time in Laos. Just stay flexible with your travel plans.
The bamboo bridge in Luang Prabang is taken down by heavy rains during the rainy season
Visa & safety
Organizing your visa for Laos
I always recommend checking the requirements for entering Vietnam with your Foreign Office, because they can change at any time.
Travelers of most nationalities need a visa to enter Laos. Coming from Vietnam, I simply opted for a visa on arrival for $40 at the Lao border which went uncomplicated.
You can also organize an e-visa in advance for $50 (it takes around three days until you receive your visa). But it’s important to know that not all border crossing accept the e-visa. And also not all border crossings accept a visa on arrival. So always check in advance the visa regulations on the specific border where you plan to enter Laos.
I’ve also heard of some scam stories (e.g. at the border Chiang Khong – Ban Houayxa which you usually take coming from Chaing Mai, Thailand), where perfect dollar notes weren’t accepted, ATMs not working and travelers were forced to exchange money for a ridiculous exchange rate.
Is backpacking in Laos safe?
Even though Laos is by far not as touristy as some of its surrounding countries, it has become a more popular backpacking country in recent years. Many backpackers include it on their Southeast Asia itinerary. There are more and more hostels, so it’s easy to get to know fellow backpackers. I felt safe as a female solo backpacker.
As in any country, it’s always good to take the usual precautions:
- Leave your valuables (such as your passport, credit cards and larger sums of cash) safely locked in your hostel or hotel while you’re out exploring. And when you’re traveling from one place to the next, keep them safely with you in a hip bag.
- Don’t walk alone or travel at night and always check with your accommodation if there are any areas you should avoid.
- I also always store my money and credit cards in different places in my luggage. Just in case you may get mugged, you still have some money source somewhere else.
- Avoid wearing jewelry, especially gold necklaces (even if they’re not very valuable you probably don’t want it ripped from your neck by a motorbike driver).
Border crossing | On my way to my Laos itinerary
From a foggy border crossing to dry, dusty roads in the heat of Laos
Language & currency
Lao language basics
The local language in Laos is “Lao” and is closely related to Thai. In most areas where you find some tourism, you’ll get along with English. Sometimes you will find funny translations, as many things are rudimentary translated the way it sounds in Lao ears.
As usual, if you try to speak a few words in the local language, you show respect for the local traditions and you will get wide smiles in return.
Try to remember these basics in Lao:
- “Hello” – ສະບາຍດີ (“Sabaidee”)
- “Thank you” – ຂອບໃຈ (“Khob chai”)
Besides, in Laos, it’s also important to know the body language. Just like in Cambodia, Lao people traditionally greet each other by holding their palms together, like a prayer. While lifting up their hands to the chest, they bow slightly – this is called a “nop” in Laos.
Lao currency
The local currency is the Lao Kip, which has lost almost half its value in the last ten years. While $1 used to be around 10.000 Kip in 2015 when I first came to Laos, nowadays it’s:
1 $ = approx. 20.000 Kip
How expensive is backpacking in Laos?
Even though prices have also gone up in this country in recent years, traveling on your Laos itinerary is still very cheap. While many places in Southeast Asia are inexpensive to visit, Laos is among the cheapest.
For example, you can get a dorm bed in a great hostel with a pool for around $5-7, get a meal in a restaurant for around 30 – 40.000 Kip ($2-3), and street food can be even cheaper (e.g. there was a delicious vegetarian buffet on the night market in Luang Prabang for only 10,000 Kip (less than 1$) – This may have increased to 20,000 Kip by now but let’s be honest, that’s still incredibly cheap). That’s why it’s such a backpacker’s paradise.
And even really nice hotels are quite affordable.
Typical Lao Food
The food in Laos is delicious. You can find curries, spring rolls, noodle dishes, and soups, as in many Asian countries.
While you can find some similarities to the food in Thailand and Cambodia (especially in the north you can find many dishes that you may know from Thai food, such as Khao Soi or Pad Thai), Lao food also has its own authenticity.
As a vegetarian, you’ll have no problems on your Laos itinerary, as there are many veggie options.
Here are some of my favorite dishes in Laos:
- Laap (sometimes also “Larb”) – The national dish, a spicy salad with lots of fresh greens and either Tofu, fish or meat.
- Yellow Curry – The typical Laotian Curry is so yummy.
- Khao Poon (Noodle Soup) – You’ll find it anywhere and it’s the perfect breakfast in my opinion.
- Khào niaw (Sticky rice) – Especially in the Mekong Valley you will often get sticky rice as a side dish instead of steamed rice.
- Spring rolls – Fresh, homemade spring rolls are something I can always eat.
And if you fancy a drink, try Beerlao, the local beer, or Lao Lao, the local rice liquor.
Sticky rice | Khao Soi
Food in Laos: Sticky rice | spring rolls | eating Khao Soi
Customs & religion
On your Laos itinerary, you may come across the “baci” ritual. It’s a traditional ceremony, in which strings are tied around your wrist for good luck. It has become a national custom and usually takes place in times of transition, such as giving birth, getting married, moving, or also welcoming guests. It’s a wonderful blessing ceremony. So if you’ve got the chance to join a baci ceremony, take this opportunity. But make sure to behave respectfully.
Here’s one more thing I really want to share with you. Treat the Lao people with respect and adapt to local traditions, such as:
- Greet people with a “sabaidee”, a smile and the “nop gesture”
- Never touch someone’s head, as this is an extreme insult. Just like Cambodians, Lao people consider the head as the highest part of the body and the focal point of intelligence and spirituality.
- Don’t point your feet against someone, especially not against a Buddha in a temple, as this shows disrespect. They’re considered the lowest part of the body and unclean.
- When visiting temples: Take off your shoes, cover your shoulders and knees (so always bring a shawl or something to cover up), and don’t touch or point your feet against a Buddha statue. Keep in mind that those are not sites made for tourists but sacred places to the religious locals.
- When entering a home: Take off your shoes and any hat or cap.
- When eating with your hand: Don’t use your left hand, as it’s considered unclean.
Also, be aware that in Laos everything closes at around 11 pm which left me a bit surprised when I just arrived in Luang Prabang and first heard about it.
Backpacking Laos itinerary – a wrap-up
Laos in three words: Sticky rice | Mountainscape | Baci ceremony
Did you know? “Laos” is not the official name of the country, but “Lao People’s Democratic Republic” (Lao PDR). The locals refer to their home as “Pathet Lao” or “Muang Lao” which means “Lao Country” or “Land of the Lao”.
Favorite photo spot: The temples in Luang Prabang
Favorite food: Vegetarian Laap
Can’t miss: Rent a scooter & discover the Lao countryside
Are you excited about your Laos backpacking adventure? Is there something missing in this Laos itinerary that you recommend? Let me know and leave a comment below.
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